No power from cig lighter and tune up list for 88 carb lx

[BustaBust]

So my cig lighter never worked since I bought my car and am getting around to fixing it now that it's mid summer and I want to plug a fan/phone charger. I've already placed the "cigar" fuse under the steering colum. My shop manual says it also shares a fuse with the remote mirrors and audio system but they are both working fine as well. I'm guessing this is a fairly common problem and assume it the 12v female receptical but would like confirmation.

Next is tune up list. So far I ordered:
Plugs,wires, cap,rotor,gasket, air and oil filter.
I'm also considering:
Ignition coil, fuel filter, carb rebuild kit

What I'm trying to correct:
The car always started breaking up under moderate-hard throttle in second gear and more so when cold. It now is starting to do it more often and in higher gears when warm. Also on hard breaking and turns.

I'm also replacing both axels and temp sensor while I'm at all this as my gauge never worked and axels always clicked while turning and it's getting worse. Anything else while I'm under the front end or things to take special notice of when doing so?

Car has just shy of 150k and I had no history when I purchased it from original deseased owner. I've put about 8k on her since last oct when purchased.

[Team Lightning]

I'd add check the lca's/ball joints and bushings.

[ryanprins13]

Pull plug at back of cig lighter socket and check for power. The oem fuse is bigger than it should be and will let that wire melt.
Also dont buy cheap fuses... the one in the photo didnt actually blow.
Flush coolant and brake fluid.
Always replace trans seals while your doing the axles.
Chexk/regrease rear wheel bearings.


Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

[BustaBust]

Thanks, just did the brake fluid and rear bearing when I did the rear suspension/brakes so they should b good. I'll check the wire as u may b right, should I switch to a 10 from the 15 that's in there? Lower control arm bushings seem firm but are mushrooming and cracking it seem. Seem like the whole assembly with ball joints are $30 for a pair so I will add them to the list.
Keep the suggestions coming, the car has already payed for itself in my mind so I don't mind spending some money on her to get her tip top.

[ryanprins13]

Thanks, just did the brake fluid and rear bearing when I did the rear suspension/brakes so they should b good. I'll check the wire as u may b right, should I switch to a 10 from the 15 that's in there? Lower control arm bushings seem firm but are mushrooming and cracking it seem. Seem like the whole assembly with ball joints are $30 for a pair so I will add them to the list.
Keep the suggestions coming, the car has already payed for itself in my mind so I don't mind spending some money on her to get her tip top.

Ok, where do you live? If you get rust i can tell you a bunch of bolts that should see anti-sieze.
I put a 10amp in mine for a bit, then ran a bigger wire as the wire from the fuse box to outlet cant handle a 12v air pump for very long before melting and i use one of those a lot.
With the lca's make sure to get ones that come with all the bushings. Moog or ac delco are worth the money. A few members here including myself have had $30 ones fail quite quickly.
You can also get urethane bushings from the festiva store and they may last longer.
What else... do you drive a lot at night? I bought led reverse lights that are almost as bright as poor headlights and love em.
Have you done anything with the front brakes? The caliper sliders are often overlooked. They need to be greased and the boots need to be replaced if torn or cracked so water doesnt get in there.




Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

[ryanprins13]

Check your tie rod ends if you havent already. If they need replacing its good to do when your already replacing axles and lca's since you need a wheel alignment anyway.
If you drive at night good bulbs and redoing the headlight wiring helps a lot i hear.
Delay wipers is something im thinking of doing.
When you did the rear brakes did you remove the self adjusting mechanism and lubricate it? They like to sieze.
What you plan to do to fix your problem is the best to start with, hopefully it fixes it. If not check and clean all main grounds.
Not sure if youll replace the fuel filter? Arent they like $5 for carbed cars? Do you know about www.rockauto.com ?
How is your v-belt? I had mine break once. I had a spare in the trunk but it could be inconvenient.
When your under the front end just check for oil leaks. Does it use any engine or transmission oil?

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

[BustaBust]

Check your tie rod ends if you havent already. If they need replacing its good to do when your already replacing axles and lca's since you need a wheel alignment anyway.
If you drive at night good bulbs and redoing the headlight wiring helps a lot i hear.
Delay wipers is something im thinking of doing.
When you did the rear brakes did you remove the self adjusting mechanism and lubricate it? They like to sieze.
What you plan to do to fix your problem is the best to start with, hopefully it fixes it. If not check and clean all main grounds.
Not sure if youll replace the fuel filter? Arent they like $5 for carbed cars? Do you know about www.rockauto.com ?
How is your v-belt? I had mine break once. I had a spare in the trunk but it could be inconvenient.
When your under the front end just check for oil leaks. Does it use any engine or transmission oil?

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

Ill start by saying the color of my fridge is "rockauto magnet metallic". I deff won't skimp on the lca's. I wasn't even thinking about an alignment I will have to get it close and drive it to the dealership I work at. Back brakes are lubed up where appropriate new hardware and springs as well as the shoes. I just forgot about the fuel filter when I made my last order and was just going to wait for the next batch of parts to combine shipping. Headlights are a good idea but electric and wiring are not my forte, my auto knowledge is really limited to take it apart and put it back together trial and error with a little bit of read the manual/forum for guidance or pay someone who knows what they are doing approach after that. Only oil leak is around the valve cover and it's minor, was on the back burner to do as I don't know if it's a bigger job than it appears.

[FestYboy]

If you ordered platinum or iridium plugs, switch them for standard copper core units, the factory coil isn't built to handle the other 2. If you want to replace the coil, get an Accel Super Coil, not the MSD Blaster. Something about the MSD causes premature failure of the ICM. Set the timing to 8* btdc as well, the engine responds well to that.

And if the carb is working, don't touch it. I've had them apart, and they're not fun.

[Team Lightning]

Set the toe-in on the front to zero degrees or as close as you can get it. Toe in is pretty well the only adjustment on the alignment without modding the front end. If you have time to get the parts, rockauto.com is the best place I've found to get parts.

[BustaBust]

good to know, had a chance to take off the front wheels and get under the vehicle last night, looks like I'm going to need brake lines as there is a decent amount of rust build up on the originals (more so on driver side). also looks like tie rod ends could be replaces, they are still pretty firm but the boots are ripped. considering doing front struts while I'm here just because they look ugly but seem to preform just fine. I'd love to do an advanced suspension but I get pretty intimidated when is start reading what parts to order and worrying about assembling them correctly and worrying about camber. That and I already bought kyb's for the back so I kinda want the same all the way around. I still cant believe there isn't an off the shelf coil over for these cars.

[BustaBust]

question: what is the procedure for taking off the front brake assemblies, it doesn't look like anything I'm use too. I didn't start taking anything apart just yet because I plan on replacing everything at once and need to drive it in the meantime.

[FestYboy]

Depress the piston, remove the 2 bolts on the back, and slide it away from the knuckle. As for the rotor, that involves separating the hub from the knuckle (slide hammer works well here).