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  • Axel removed

    So I've dove into my front end rebuild and made a lot of progress on te driver side last night. I struggled to get the cv out but eventually found the right angle to pry and pull at the same time to get it out. As soon and I got it out though fluid (trans I presume) started pouring out, quite a bit might I add. This is not normal from my experience but want confirmation before I put her back together with new axels. At this point I would also like to completely drain and replace the trans fluid as well, my floor was covered last night so didn't get a chance to inspect but where is the drain plug for trans fluid?

    The other question I have is how to remove the sway bar from the Lca , it's on there pretty good, I have the control arm completely separated from both the body and all joint and bolt removed from sway bar end. Any advice would help.

    Thanks

  • #2
    Draining the trans would be the first thing to do when changing the axles, this will stop the mess on the floor, the trans drain plug is on the bottom of the trans, directly in the middle of the cross member cut out. Good luck.
    An idea can turn to dust or magic, depending on the talent that rubs against it.

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    • #3
      FWIW I never have drained a transmission on anything to change an axle, when you are working in a flat rate shop every 10 minutes you save on a job without compromising the job is important. A plastic trash can lid with a hole dead center over a clean drain pan makes an excellent catch pan, and if neccessary you can now measure what you took out for reference[yes there are times it is helpful] back to the point your drain plug is on the bottom about 5 inches below where your drivers side axle goes in should be 17or19mm wrench size as I recall.
      30 + Vehicle projects right now.7 Festiva/Mazda 10 GM IDK how many others,hope that helps explain all the stupid questions/shortcuts/interchanges etc. trying to liquidate so I concentrate on the good ones. Goal finish 1 amonth using as much stuff as I already have accumulated.

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      • #4
        'It was a 19 thanks, so how about getting this sway bar disconnected from the lca?

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        • #5
          Originally posted by ricko1966 View Post
          FWIW I never have drained a transmission on anything to change an axle, when you are working in a flat rate shop every 10 minutes you save on a job without compromising the job is important. A plastic trash can lid with a hole dead center over a clean drain pan makes an excellent catch pan, and if neccessary you can now measure what you took out for reference[yes there are times it is helpful] back to the point your drain plug is on the bottom about 5 inches below where your drivers side axle goes in should be 17or19mm wrench size as I recall.
          I do put a pan in place with a trash can lid on it before I pop the axle to keep the mess off the floor.
          30 + Vehicle projects right now.7 Festiva/Mazda 10 GM IDK how many others,hope that helps explain all the stupid questions/shortcuts/interchanges etc. trying to liquidate so I concentrate on the good ones. Goal finish 1 amonth using as much stuff as I already have accumulated.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by BustaBust View Post
            'It was a 19 thanks, so how about getting this sway bar disconnected from the lca?
            Do you have the stabilzer bar unbolted from the body?
            30 + Vehicle projects right now.7 Festiva/Mazda 10 GM IDK how many others,hope that helps explain all the stupid questions/shortcuts/interchanges etc. trying to liquidate so I concentrate on the good ones. Goal finish 1 amonth using as much stuff as I already have accumulated.

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            • #7
              No I was trying to do one side at a time as I'm working in tight quarters. Just have the control arm hanging from it in the car at the moment.

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              • #8
                If you haven't already put the axel in check the clips and make sure it dosnt stick out of the axel grove more then the original, lots of aftermarket axels have the wrong clips and Will go in just fine but when they fail and you go to remove them they are very hard and sometimes impossible to get pulled from the trans.

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                • #9
                  Remove ball joint from knuckle, remove inner side of lca from car. Remove bolt on the end of the sway bar that holds it to the lca. Pull off the metal cup and rubber bushing. Grab lca and twist and wiggle. If that doesnt work hit lca with hammer.

                  Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

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                  • #10
                    Top clip good bottom clip bad.

                    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

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                    • #11
                      Can I use atf fluid in the transnor is there a specific kind in looking for?

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                      • #12
                        Did you get the lca's off?
                        Yes, atf works. As does a host of other fluids.
                        Syncromesh, mtf, 20w50 motorcycle oil, gear oil.... if you have some of one of those handy use it. Atf was speced from factory, isnt the 'best' but works.

                        Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

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                        • #13
                          Thanks, anyone know the capacity?

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                          • #14
                            Lcas are off waiting for new bar bushings as they were not on the new lcas

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                            • #15
                              Is that picture upside down?
                              Top clip is after market,
                              Bottom clip is OEM Mazda, though it looks to have been over expanded. This is the only clip I use. Axle won't pop out even road course racing, comes out easily for service....
                              No car too fast !

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