Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Stand Alone ECU Discussion

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Stand Alone ECU Discussion

    I've been considering a stand alone system, so I figured I ought to know what kind of things will be in this Pandora's Box that I'll be getting myself into. Basically I've heard that MegaSquirt is very simple and easy to use but that also means quite basic, but I've seen it around here so I take it that it's enough intricacy for our cars? What about some of the other systems? A friend of mine told me his boss, Jim Pierce, was quite impressed by Haltech, from Australia. I'm pretty much looking for pros and cons of systems you've personally used. I'm not exactly sure how i want to use the system, but it will most likely be on a B3, in which case I would mostly just want to bring up the redline to ~6-6.5 and retune the hard parts to compliment that, probably sacrificing a little fuel economy for a little more power. Thanks guys
    A mechanic knows how; A technician knows why.

    Wrecked. Repairs in Progress"Frankie" 1957 Chevrolet 3100, NA 2bbl 283cuin, Muncy Granny 4sp, 3.90 Open Diff @ ~95K miles

    Wrecked. Repairs in Progress"Alice" 1991 Ford Festiva L, NA EFI B3, 5sp @150k miles

    Reassembling"Aurora" 1991 Ford Festiva L, NA EFI B3, 5sp @240k miles

    FB Festiva page: Jared Bennett
    Instagram: jaredbear82

  • #2
    I prefer megasquirt since its widely used especially in the miata world so there is plenty of support for it. There are many different varieties of megasquirt. Each one is capable of doing different things but just about all of them will be more than capable of handling a b3. I think stratified still offers and plug and play setup for a escort gt which has a identical plug and pin layout as a 90 and up festiva. I've heard good things about haltech and it's gotten more popular in the US lately but it doesn't have that much support.
    Better Than Nothing Racing

    Way too many cars

    :woc:

    Comment


    • #3
      I have a full EVO kit from carlos i could sell you. You kinda gotta have Carlos remote tune it for you. All you would need in a bp dissy to make it work. I think they even have nice little caps you can buy to make it look good now.

      anyway i run an evo kit on my car overkill. They work but they dont have all the bells and gadgets. It just runs the car on a map sensor.
      1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
      1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
      1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
      19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
      1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

      Comment


      • #4
        I was going to get a Fueltech but they discontinued the model I was going to get. I want to go standalone on my B6T eventually because I feel like the stock electronics leave a lot to be desired.
        Current cars:

        1993 Ford Festiva 5-Speed - Festiclese III - Cousin of the Banhammer - "The Jalopnik Car"
        1984 Toyota Cressida - 2JZGE Swap, Turbocharged.
        2013 Mazda Mazda2 - Exhaust and Wheels (the daily)
        2002 Toyota Tundra - V6/Auto/2WD - The Tow Vehicle.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by chrisofna View Post
          I was going to get a Fueltech but they discontinued the model I was going to get. I want to go standalone on my B6T eventually because I feel like the stock electronics leave a lot to be desired.
          The kit i was talking about was bought for this very reason! I wanted to go big turbo. I got the kit to do just that but then i have switched the build up. Im now going built bp. I will take the car to FL to have it tunned in person by the man himself. Im gonna go with a better unit this this one. So its up for grabs if you want it.
          1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
          1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
          1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
          19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
          1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

          Comment


          • #6
            I would recommend the megasquirtV2/ microsquirt. Either would easily run a B6T and they are simple enough that you can learn tuning on them without having a bunch of bells and whistles you don't actually need. I use a micosquirt on my 2.3 lima turbo and it has never given me problems.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by blake4591 View Post
              I would recommend the megasquirtV2/ microsquirt. Either would easily run a B6T and they are simple enough that you can learn tuning on them without having a bunch of bells and whistles you don't actually need. I use a micosquirt on my 2.3 lima turbo and it has never given me problems.
              The versatile MicroSquirt with 8 foot harness- Version 3.0! Perfect for your motorcyle, snowmobile, or personal watercraft! Or control your auto trans.


              Like this set-up? It's pretty cheap and looks to be a good set-up.
              Current cars:

              1993 Ford Festiva 5-Speed - Festiclese III - Cousin of the Banhammer - "The Jalopnik Car"
              1984 Toyota Cressida - 2JZGE Swap, Turbocharged.
              2013 Mazda Mazda2 - Exhaust and Wheels (the daily)
              2002 Toyota Tundra - V6/Auto/2WD - The Tow Vehicle.

              Comment


              • #8
                megasquirt user chiming in - used for n/a and turbo applications

                get it, learn it, and love it - it's a lot to learn but just read read read

                for cheaper alternatives, people have made their own ECUs using arduino/rasbpi

                What is your application?

                Comment


                • #9
                  You want it to increase the redline on a stock b3? Have you hit the rev limiter on the engine you plan to do this to?
                  I havent tried it on my new festiva but on my old one when my cheap princess auto tachometer got above 7000rpm the engine would sound really weird like it was drowning. Maybe the valves were floating or something. Anyway, i revved it higher than i wanted to or should have several times and never hit a rev limiter. People tell me it has one though, lol.
                  What else did you plan to do? Adjust afr?

                  Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by chrisofna View Post
                    https://www.diyautotune.com/product/...iring-harness/

                    Like this set-up? It's pretty cheap and looks to be a good set-up.
                    Yeah that is what I'm using. I'll warn you that you're still going to need a wide band, some type of fuse box and it'll take some time to get everything wired. Most people seem to forget all that additional stuff when looking at ECUs. Also, the microsquirts only work with low impedance injectors. I don't know what the factory B3 injectors are but you'll need to confirm that thy are compatible with the mircosquirt.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by ryanprins13 View Post
                      You want it to increase the redline on a stock b3? Have you hit the rev limiter on the engine you plan to do this to?
                      I havent tried it on my new festiva but on my old one when my cheap princess auto tachometer got above 7000rpm the engine would sound really weird like it was drowning. Maybe the valves were floating or something. Anyway, i revved it higher than i wanted to or should have several times and never hit a rev limiter. People tell me it has one though, lol.
                      What else did you plan to do? Adjust afr?

                      Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
                      Stock EFI car in ther US has a limiter around 6200 RPM depending how accurate your Tach is. I think the Carb cars didn't have a limiter, but don't quote me
                      Will Samet

                      JDMSTIVA - Rest in Peace. Festiva of the Month, May '16 - Best Beater & Bad Luck Award, FMX - (Build Thread)

                      JDMSTIVA V2 - Racecar, Showcar, Work in Progress - (Build Thread)

                      1990 LX - B6D swapped, mostly stock.

                      How to find me:
                      Facebook messenger is the best way. m.me/willsamet
                      Feel free to PM me anytime!
                      Reddit / Snapchat / everywhere else: w4rky
                      Instagram/Twitter: @WILLSAMET

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by blake4591 View Post
                        Yeah that is what I'm using. I'll warn you that you're still going to need a wide band, some type of fuse box and it'll take some time to get everything wired. Most people seem to forget all that additional stuff when looking at ECUs. Also, the microsquirts only work with low impedance injectors. I don't know what the factory B3 injectors are but you'll need to confirm that thy are compatible with the mircosquirt.
                        Are you sure about the injector thing? I just found this on the Microsquirt FAQ:

                        "Your MicroSquirt® EFI controller will limit the injector current to ~5 Amps per driver. This may be too much for the injectors, especially if you only have one or two low-impedance injectors per driver. High-impedance injectors (i.e. injectors that have a DC resistance of more than 10 Ohms) will not flow more than ~1 Amp at any time, so they do not need any additional current limiting. Low-impedance injectors (< 3 Ohms) can flow up to 15 Amps if not limited, and this will burn them up. To do this, use a 5 to 8 ohm resistor (with a 20 to 25 watt rating) in series with each injector."

                        I would probably be using my old 440s out of my Cressida (Supra Injectors) which are low impedance, but it sounds like anything would work with the right resistor.
                        Current cars:

                        1993 Ford Festiva 5-Speed - Festiclese III - Cousin of the Banhammer - "The Jalopnik Car"
                        1984 Toyota Cressida - 2JZGE Swap, Turbocharged.
                        2013 Mazda Mazda2 - Exhaust and Wheels (the daily)
                        2002 Toyota Tundra - V6/Auto/2WD - The Tow Vehicle.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by w4rkry View Post
                          Stock EFI car in ther US has a limiter around 6200 RPM depending how accurate your Tach is. I think the Carb cars didn't have a limiter, but don't quote me
                          My carb'd '88 has seen 7,000 rpm, in first gear, downhill. So I'd agree that there's no limiter lol. There's really no need to spin it over 6,000, they don't make any power up top. Maybe the EFI cars pull better past 5,000 rpm, but mine gets choked up and drops power after 5000-5500. It struggles to hit 6000 in second gear, and it's pretty much impossible to hit 6k in third.

                          I'd swap in a B6d; it'll bolt up to your trans, makes double the HP, they do 7,200 rpms stock (in Miata trim), they make power all the way up to redline, and it's cheaper than any stand alone system.
                          Last edited by theastronaut; 09-15-2017, 02:01 PM.
                          '88 L- B6d-Sidedraft Dellorto Carbs-G-Series-Advanced Suspension
                          '89 L B3-5 speed-A/C-Advanced Suspension

                          Project Goldilocks '66 C10 Short Fleet BBW Build
                          '65 C10 Highly Detailed Stock Restoration Thread
                          '55 International Metal/Body/Paint Work
                          '66 F100 Full Rotisserie Restoration
                          '40 Packard 120 Convertible Coupe Restoration
                          How To Restore and Detail an Original Gauge Cluster
                          How To Detail Sand Body Panels, Edges, Corners

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I can hit the limiter in 3rd pretty easy in my EFI, and I would agree that there isn't a ton of extra power that high

                            - Korean Note 4 via Tapatalk -
                            Will Samet

                            JDMSTIVA - Rest in Peace. Festiva of the Month, May '16 - Best Beater & Bad Luck Award, FMX - (Build Thread)

                            JDMSTIVA V2 - Racecar, Showcar, Work in Progress - (Build Thread)

                            1990 LX - B6D swapped, mostly stock.

                            How to find me:
                            Facebook messenger is the best way. m.me/willsamet
                            Feel free to PM me anytime!
                            Reddit / Snapchat / everywhere else: w4rky
                            Instagram/Twitter: @WILLSAMET

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by ryanprins13 View Post
                              You want it to increase the redline on a stock b3? Have you hit the rev limiter on the engine you plan to do this to?
                              I havent tried it on my new festiva but on my old one when my cheap princess auto tachometer got above 7000rpm the engine would sound really weird like it was drowning. Maybe the valves were floating or something. Anyway, i revved it higher than i wanted to or should have several times and never hit a rev limiter. People tell me it has one though, lol.
                              What else did you plan to do? Adjust afr?

                              Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
                              I'm one of "Those Guys" who wants to see what they can make out of a B3, for 3 reasons:
                              1, Self gratification. I want to show myself that I can take something and make it "better" (by my own standards, of course better is relative.
                              2, It's what I have. I already have too many engines in my garage. If I get ANOTHER project before finishing what I have, my dad will strangle me.
                              3, I live in California, where the air is pure and the emissions regulations are smothering. I can get away with using the stock block and heads and changing internals.

                              My general plan is to change a few things to put some power back in the top end and use a standalone to compensate for lost fuel economy and enhance power
                              A mechanic knows how; A technician knows why.

                              Wrecked. Repairs in Progress"Frankie" 1957 Chevrolet 3100, NA 2bbl 283cuin, Muncy Granny 4sp, 3.90 Open Diff @ ~95K miles

                              Wrecked. Repairs in Progress"Alice" 1991 Ford Festiva L, NA EFI B3, 5sp @150k miles

                              Reassembling"Aurora" 1991 Ford Festiva L, NA EFI B3, 5sp @240k miles

                              FB Festiva page: Jared Bennett
                              Instagram: jaredbear82

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X