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  • New issue, im lost!

    Trying to get the little 88 on the road. Starts fine, but will not take throttle (after its warm).

    Kick it once to set the choke, start it, idle increases as it warms. Kick it down.

    After a few minutes it wants to stumble, and any throttle, and it stalls.

    Not been on the road in the last 18 months since I bought it.

    Not a "bad gas" issue. Have the pickup and return line in a bottle with fresh gas.

    Seemed fine until a few months ago when I did the title, and windshield, so I could get it inspected.

    Now she no go.

    HELP!!!

  • #2
    Simply buy an adapter plate and change to an Escort carb. You will eliminate at least 20 variables initiated by the ECA.
    Last edited by bravekozak; 10-17-2017, 08:24 PM.

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    • #3
      I know nothing about carbwrated car other than they dont like to sit with fuel in the cab. Is it possible the jets got gummed up by the old gas? Can you put a bunch of seafoam or some better cleaner in this bottle of gas and run it for a bit?

      Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

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      • #4
        Do as Bravekozak mentioned and that's good advice or remove the carb get it cleaned and re install, I'm thinking your carb accelerator pump has given up. Good luck
        An idea can turn to dust or magic, depending on the talent that rubs against it.

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        • #5
          Possible vacuum line crack or leak after sitting long.
          I had an 88 I took most of the lines off of and plugged/covered with a set of those from a parts store.

          It ran better than ever after that.htd

          The EGR components off the engine wall was much cleaner look then too. By their own specs- they only ever change things a percentage of percentage if they even function- and probably negatively after 30 years. If the lines leak- it's bad performance.

          Also just put in carb cleaner into the mouth and throat- turn it over slightly- WITHOUT STARTING until there's a heavy dose in the float tank-Let that sit in there a few minutes-
          then turn it over a few times and repeat that at least three or four times- takes 10 to 20 minutes- the more the better- but a quick carb cleaner that often gets results- When it first starts it blows a lot of carbon out from the intake manifold too for just a few seconds,.

          carb cleaner, injector cleaner- gas treatment- all pretty much the same petroleum distillate stuff- is your best and cheapest bet- an 8 or 12 oz bottle from Dollar Tree will do the whole thing- just pour it in, and turn it over so it goes in the float tank- with some to go in the tank still- and use it regularly after that in the tank.
          You need a good charge on the battery.
          Last edited by harpon; 10-18-2017, 10:38 PM.

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          • #6
            Get a carb rebuild kit if they are still available and replace the accelerator pump first. 4 screws on rear of carb. Also replace the O2 sensor. It is what controls that ridiculous valve thing with all the vacuum hoses on it through the ECU. I always thought a person could plug the vacuum ports that the valve goes to on the carb to bypass it. Don't know if that would work or not. Be sure to mark hoses before taking stuff apart. Mine used to run pretty good but I got sick of it and installed an escort carb. Much better and faster.
            Last edited by zoe60; 10-19-2017, 07:52 AM.

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            • #7
              Im stuck on a lemons budget.

              IS a be a race car

              Eventualy the b6t is going in if I can figure out its issues too.

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              • #8
                zoe, an Escort carb does not need a computer. You can just disconnect it to prove it and later remove it.
                An escort carb does not need an oxygen sensor or all that spaghetti hose. Just throw it out along with all of the sensors.
                Vent your gas cap and get rid of all that evaporative stuff + charcoal canister.

                fits, the goal is to get rid of the computer controlled throttle. You have to change to a non-feedback carb. In other words, a real carb.
                My identical twins.
                Last edited by bravekozak; 10-19-2017, 06:13 PM.

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                • #9
                  Zoe is right- be careful to not disconnect the spark advance vacuum lines- I think they run to a small round brass or silver thing about smaller than your fist, and not far from the carb- I got a rebuild kit and actually got most of the parts into it- including the float needle- but it's been a decade- it worked pretty well- but soaking the float tank and then running heavy small concentrated doses through the carb really works good too.

                  The EGR components could be corroding out- and not making electrical adjustments- or even opening valves to cracked lines- if you cut off some of them on the firewall, you really reduce the variables of things that can go haywire. Your exhaust could be backing up- at the catalytic converter especially- which is little more than a screen door piece in a resonator- often cut off and re-piped or replaced. If it's creating clogged back pressure at low revs this can stall you out like you describe.

                  Also look for leaking gas at the mechanical fuel pump- the ends of lines can crack with age, and maybe not deliver the correct pressure at low speed,

                  It doesn't sound like your main problem, but new plug wires (and plugs too) can make a lot of difference- The only real prob I had with the old 88- besides replacing the alternator- turned out to be arcing plug wires- I could hear little snaps, and then in darkness- see sparks arcing between the wires and metal motor parts-- and even see current literally cursing through the wires in very dark conditions- and all at about 240,00 miles- after NEVER missing a beat for years before that-

                  I'd replaced the coil and plugs but new wires did it- or you can even wrap older ones with a layer or two of electrical tape for a quicker test if nothing else- like if you ever wrapped handlebars on a 10 speed back in the day- and that works too.
                  Last edited by harpon; 10-19-2017, 06:39 PM.

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                  • #10
                    Start with the basics, since the tank is bypassed, check the carb filter for debris. Verify the accelerator pump is working. With the car running and warm, restrict the air through the carb and see if the idle increases/smooths out. A vacuum leak will cause a lean and high idle, not a stumble, and adding throttle will mitigate the vacuum leak. I believe there's a fuel signal issue, not a leak.
                    Trees aren't kind to me...

                    currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                    94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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                    • #12
                      New Old Stock.
                      Perfect price.

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                      • #13
                        wont you need some type of adapter to switch to an escort carb? for $50 I might be in on this.

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                        • #14
                          Originally posted by BustaBust View Post
                          wont you need some type of adapter to switch to an escort carb? for $50 I might be in on this.
                          If you have access to an aluminum welder and a milling machine with a small flywheel cutter, drill bit and tap, you can keep everything at the same height.

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                          • #15
                            Yeah I must have left my aluminum welder and milking machine in my other pants.

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