Oh boy - I get to do a Coolant Pump...

[Greywolf]

It never dawned on me that a water pump (coolant, whatever) could be a serious head trip to even get to. I can see where going in the door I have to remove a lot of things just to get in there, and of course I want to figure out the method of least hassle before I try to make a video out of this: "Marvelous Opportunity to Document Automotive Maintenance"... :angry2:

That having been said, and since it's too late to start on it today, anybody with tips or advice that might go a long way towards preventing my HEAD from exploding - feel free to chime in! Tomorrow it is ON, man. Including a radiator back flush (done out of the car), a block flush, new thermostat, and even a replacement radiator cap so that I know it has the right pressure*

This came to be a definite :naka: "You WILL immediately perform the exercise - move!" (HOO-rah...) kind of a deal when the temp gauge on the dash began to act like an undecided trainee. On startup for instance - the needle swung all the way off the end of the scale, when there was NO WAY the engine had even BEGUN to warm up yet. I got to a gas stop, and sure enough the 'coolant' (utterly rusty nasty water at this point, which I never saw in there before) was barely luke warm...

And yet the day before I had to wonder if the sending unit was even working, since it read nada, zero, nicht, absolutely nothing. "Earth to Car; Whiskey Tango Foxtrot, over?"

So I figure the vanes on the pump impeller finally wore down to a flat disk like they do eventually, and it is time for a total coolant system rejuvenation. Fortunately, I suspected it would come to this months ago because I TRUST NOTHING that the prior owner(s) did to it. I've had all of the parts standing by including a new tube of gasket sealer and a gallon of PURE (not 50/50) antifreeze. But the question NOW is:

How in sweet "F"-all can I get in there to even touch it? It looks like I may even have to dismount the right hand engine mount and lift that end of the mill to gain access!!!

I have an old memory going around the gearbox I call a brain about early Monza cars that you had to pull the engines out of to change the freaking spark plugs on. hmmmmmm

T-Minus eighteen hours and counting people! The machine goes NO WHERE until this is accomplished, so drop a dime while you can.

~ I can also use this opportunity to put the battery on a trickle charger and possibly (possibly...) compare the alternator to some V8 and 2.3 Litre Ford alts that I have laying around. I think a better ALT would be a damn good move



* From prior experience, who wants to bet that once it holds correct pressure I begin to chase leaks all over the place?

[zoe60]

First thing, remove the water pump pulley and the timing cover and turn the crank til the engines timing marks all line up. Then remove the timing belt tensioner, then the crank pulley. You will probably have to undo the passenger side engine mount and lower the engine with a jack to get to the bolt. Take off the front wheel and there is a plastic cover in there too. I think an impact works best to get the crank bolt out. otherwise you will have to take out the starter and wedge a prybar or something in the hole to hold the engine from turning. Once you get the pulley and lower timing cover off, remove the timing belt. At this point you should be able to get to the water pump fairly easily. Replace the O ring. A new one should come with the new water pump. Might as well replace the timing belt and tensioner too. Reassembly is the reverse. Just be sure to line up timing marks correctly. It is important to torque the crank pulley bolt correctly and once again it can be difficult to hold the engine from turning It's not really that bad once you get going. Good luck. Hope I didn't forget anything.

[harpon]

Here's a pretty good write up with pictures- for an Aspire at least at Aspire.com:

http://aspire.b1.jcink.com/index.php?showtopic=262

And I assume you have some kind of Haynes or Chilton or Ford manual.

I don't know if radiators can be had for as cheap as I got a new one for my Aspire- less than $50- but WHAT A DIFFERENCE now that the leaky water pump was replaced, and that DIDN'T stop the overheating- which I think was mostly from adding copper sealant for the leaky pump for almost a year. My coolant, changed twice now with the new radiator, is once again showing signs of copper in it, though the temps are staying waaay down.

I've run straight non-watered coolant since before they started selling it pre-mxed- FOREVER- and it works great, and the heater core won't rust through as easily either- the big danger with weak watered coolant and another HORRIBLY RIDICULOUS repair that requires removing the steering wheel and dashboard. So yes- I'd go with the straight mix and no worry.

I took off that lower engine wheel well cover before anything else, seeking more natural air flow, and here in hot snowless Florida, am leaving it off too. I cleared a lot of sqaure inches away from the front airflow, including a center beam and air bag sensor, and I even drilled and notched some more on the front grill itself. The new radiator they sent me was about 20 percent larger to the side and now more covers the front of the car.

I also put on a large ten bladed-I think- aftermarket fan from ebay and removed the old shroud- this works really well but still draws jus as much current it seems.

Good luck

[fastivaca]

didn't watch the whole video but perhaps this will help... Youtube video

[Greywolf]

That last video is just plain HARD to watch. Those guys worry me...

But it did show something hopeful about the lower timing cover, I really did not want to mess with the lower crank pulleys if I can avoid it.

(I'm getting sick of logging back in over and over too)

[rickbz28]

Greywolf said:
(I'm getting sick of logging back in over and over too)
A few months ago the forum started making me log in every time I enter the forums. Don't know why maybe a mod can tell us what the issue is.

[Greywolf]

It isn't just that, but if I take too long writing a post it makes me refresh the page and log in again - and if I DO that of course, I had damned sure better have remembered to copy whatever I was writing because it will have been erased by refreshing the damned page...

I got it torn down - and believe it or not the pump that came out was as good as new... All that hassle for nothing, but now I know what's in it and the old one can be a spare for later.

It needs a serious flush, and Studebaker was right about the guy who had these cars before me: I would not have agreed with or got along with the dude either. There is so much crummy work inside this car, and unbelievably cheesy shortcuts, new pump or not it looked like it had been totally neglected. I've got a lot of wiring that needs to be sorted out on top of everything else! Stuff that was just plain chopped and left hanging for no reason at all. The T-belt looked good, but the others are going to be swapped out now too. I might as well, it's apart...

Putting it back together will be when the video hatches, unless I go out later and do an overall view of what was found.

Believe it or not, the radiator drain plug even fell apart when I reached up under to drain it out. I've got to carefully drill it out and put one of my spare ones from a different rad into it. Fortunately, I DO HAVE a spare Festy radiator

This buggy is absolutely NOT going to look like a bucket of droppings when I get done with it, nor will it run like cow plop either!
It's against my religion to make a thing that is crummy

While I'm at it I am also on the lookout for something in the exhaust that sounds like a fake turbo - I know for a fact this ride has NO TURBO, but it whistles at high RPM as if an exhaust whistle has in fact been added... :cussing:

As we know, any such restriction is bound to ruin efficiency

William can testify that we also found a pair of magnets on the fuel line when I went on that road trip way back when :disgust: Foolishness compounded by "TIN-FOIL HAT-ISHNESS"

[Greywolf]

Here's the old one. I'm not ready to put the video together yet, but you will see this image again

FestivaPumpOld.jpg

Like I was saying, almost no wear on the vanes of the impeller at all. I didn't need to mess with it.

HOWEVER - the entire system needs cleaning out.

Tomorrow I pull out the T-Stat and flush the block. The radiator is also going to be addressed

THAT THING was an all-day effort, and very frustrating

I predict this is going to take at least three days to do it even halfway right

[Dragonhealer]

As the stock style radiators are aluminum, if you think the radiator is more than 5 years old, you are best served installing a new one.

[Greywolf]

On the radiator drain plug: It turned out to be an M12 1.25 - and instead of a plastic one (they had none in stock) I used a metal screw with a wide hex head.

I'd rather use a wrench to tighten it anyway, and it came with a small rubber gasket so it DOES seal tight.

A few more bits to come off and then the video starts as I re-assemble it all

[Greywolf]

The next bad problem is finding an O-Ring for the coolant bypass tube. So far I see something at Advance Auto that is an "IF" but might do it..

I also have to find 2 bolts that were left off the A/C tensioner support bracket, but that's an easy one

[Dragonhealer]

A dash209 (-209) "O" ring is what is furnished with a water pump kit.
Hardware store or plumbing supply.

[Greywolf]

I got a new perspective on it today - and it is moving FORWARD (the project)

Check out this PRE-RELEASE of the final video:

~ What I am telling you here is that

1) You need to check that
2) If you got a pump - you already have that part
3) WHILE YOU ARE AT THE PARTS STORE: Make sure you see an O-Ring in the kit

* Without it, you are screwed


I will show you how it all goes together in the next part

[Dragonhealer]

Very nice freehand camera work, can't wait to see the final production!
Sorry you guys have to deal with all that corrosion where you live.

I disagree with you about the OEM hose clamps, they are superior to the common screw clamp as the spring clamp is constant tension, though they can be a PITA in some places even with the proper tools.....

[dalebwilson]

Timing marks are to be aligned as follows: Crankshaft mark is straight up at 12 o’clock. The 2 cam marks are at 12 and 3 o’clock.


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