A/C install

[Jasin]

Hello. I recently took the entire A/C system out of a 93 Festiva w/ Automatic trans to place in my 91 Festiva w/manual trans. I have a few questions and some problems I ran into so far.
1st. The crank sprocket and pulley assembly is different from the 93 auto, I needed the pulley for mine but it is way different...I can not even fit the 93 crank sprocket on my 91 to use that setup...no fit. Wonder why, maybe cause automatic and manual different there? Any ideas other than get another setup from somewhere else? (note- I see the pulley setup in the haynes manual that would work for me;page 2A-8 grrrr!!)
2nd. I can not seem to find the connector for the gas pedal switch on my car. Is it up there somewhere and I just ain't seeing it or is it the connecter (blue tape around it)mounted to the blower that is to be unhooked and used? maybe thats just a holder for that connector?
3rd. There is a yellow/ red dashed wire that has a 15 amp fuse attachment>>.where the ell does it go does it hook up or have something to do with an A/C amplifier(see next question)
4th. I saw no A/C amplifier on the 93...what exzactly does that look like and where would it be located...if it is even on this setup...if not than where does that yellow wire w/15 amp fuse go to exzactly?? Anywhere I can get A/C specific wiring diagrams for those 2 cars?

Other than those issues it has gone really good. Did anyone do the R12 to 134a conversion and if so how does that work for you? I am thinking as long as my system holds I will use R12 in it(R12 a little colder too) now instead of converting.

[FestYboy]

you can't get R12 anymore... production stopped in '94 and whatever is out there is all there is (and it's ungodly expensive) plus you need a license to purchace and the few extra BTUs r12 can provide won't make any difference. I can get r134 to blow at 38*F and that's damn cold, believe me.

[freshtiva]

There are some differences on festiva A/Cs depending on if they are factory or dealer installed. engines from 1990- feb 1992 have a 22mm crank snout. feb 1992-1993 had a 27mm crank snout. Some a/c pulleys are flat shallow type and others are deeper like a dog bowl. I don't have my manual handy (loaned it to a friend ) :roll: I haven't noticed any difference from the f12 to the r134. Here is a link to A/C installation. It is in the "others articles" where you will also find A/C removal. Might be some helpful info there for you. If I get my manual back soon I might be able to answer some of your specifics. Hope this helps some.

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=716

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=698

[David88]

Dont do the 134a conversion unless you updated the whole system before you installed it. That system was not made for 134a. Trust me go to good a shop in your area that specializes in A/C and radiators and have them put in R12. It will be worth it in the long run.

I am going back to R12 after doing the conversion of death(134a). I am now having to completely remove my system and have each component flushed. The oils are not compatible. It may work for a while with 134, but mine lasted less than 6 months.

[GenevaDirt]

I do not know the name of it but there is a compatable conversion....you do not even have to change the r12...just add to it. I will see if I can find the info.

[freshtiva]

I changed mine over about five years ago with no problem yet. :?

[GenevaDirt]

^^I did not think there was a problem....I know a bunch of people that have done it. But there is something new out from what I remember...I just have to remember where I saw it or who told me about it....lol

[Jasin]

I got the correct pulley setup from another Festiva, and another entire A/C wiring harness(it has the amplifier thing and looks more compatable to my setup---doesn't have that extra 15 amp in-line fuse, just the 10 amp one). I still need to figure out the gas pedal switch thing...wheres that connector for sure?
As for the R12 -134a --I see a few different things on it. Ya, there is a kit at autozone that all you do is plug in the can and it refreshes the seals and converts the oils without any need for disassembly--leery of that though. I will do an r12 charge at the shop later- and hopefully a new clutch and rear main seal at the same time.
Just a FYI. You can get R12 without a licsense----just gotta buy like 100 pounds at once or is it 50 lbs? Or at least you could back in 2002...I guess they figure if you buy that much r12 you know what your doing?...I dunno, but you could get it-or could then at least. I think the cost to get a thing to buy small amounts of r12 is like 20 bucks...and take a open book test,...I was going to do it back in 2002 but never bothered.

[Burnrate]

Download the manuals! they will help!

There were some slight differences in the Model years. Some had the gas pedal switch some did not. I think there are also differences in the atx vs mtx installs and if you had p/s the hard line is different. There should be some connectors next to the cluster up in the dash on the passenger side of the cluster. I had the 10amp fuse and 2 connectors cant remember but one may have gone to the ac switch. On the r134a--- Changed mine to r134. Whats needed?

Drain all the old oil you can get out of the system. This invoves engaging the compressor w 12 volts and rotating it. Drain all the oil out of the evap and condensor--- may take several days of rocking them back and forth or you can blow them out with air. Be careful blowing air through the TXV.
I opted not too and just let gravity do its thing. Get an o-ring kit I think the asian kit is the right one. Replace ALL the o-rings they WILL leak. if you are bold replace the manifold orings on the compressor. Not too hard. 4-- 6mm allen bolts--2 layers 6 round orings and one square one KEEP IT CLEAN. Assuming you have the 10p13a Nippon compressor. The large compressor orings and shaft seal should be replaced also but that is a bigger job They will leak r134 when the won't leak r-12. Polarbear will replace all the seals in your compressor for 80 bucks plus shipping. Get a NEW drier. Refill the compressor with at least 3 oz of ESTER <---- NOT PAG---- OIL. Book says 10 oz of oil, I think that may be WAY too much I have 6 Total In my system(talk to your ac person). Reassemble system do an electrical check. add r134a valve converters. Take to shop or friend with a REAL Vaccume pump and gauges (yellow jacket--etc). Have them vac it down for 30 min and hold for 15. Add 2 or 3 more oz of oil to the system, put in 20 or so oz. of NORMAL r134a A pro will know when to stop by watching the gauges to see when the TXV opens and closes and checking the sight glass. Now Put leak check on all your connections and all over the compressor (Three big seals) and look for bubbles. Got bubbles? pull system down fix leak repeat steps above. No Bubbles ENJOY!

I have leaks around my compressor seals. Very tiny, only leaks when hot.
I have a 3 part seal kit from polarbear sitting on the shelf but I am going to wait till winter to fix it. I just check my sight glass every few days for bubbles and top up if required( I use the $9 seal/leak/oil r134 to top up since I loose a little oil).

Good Luck
Eric

[Jasin]

Sounds good there Eric. Ya getting a new reciever/dryer this wednesday along with o-rings.
I found out the yellow wire w/15 amp inline fuse was for the condenser fan, guess it hooks up to a hot wire? I dunno, that wire set-up came out of a 1993 automatic.
I also grabbed the 1989 or 88 a/c wiring from a manual trans but it doesn't have a hook-up for a condenser fan.....
I also gotta check to see whats wrong with my radiator fan...I got a switch that turns it on n off now. I replaced the relay and the temp. sender but it still didn't work so I just hooked up the switch for it one day. Wonder if that would work for the condenser fan? Not sure how all those relays and stuff interact in the a/c system concerning the fans.
Still working and thinking about it all....

[Pu241]

Good info there Burnrate!