Rotor replacement, Hub, bearings,brakes USE SLIDE HAMMER

[quaddawg]

Did a search on this topic and heard a lot of problems, got worried.

Just reporting that a slide hammer separated the hub in about 20 seconds.

Chucked up the knuckle in a vise, put a slide hammer onto the center (where the wheel bolts) and a few whacks and it was safely out.

Put a bearing tool (three arm) onto the slide hammer and the outer bearing came right off too.. of course I ruined the inner seal, but was planning on replacing that anyway.

I was worred too, as the unit I am working on was rusted badly, and I thought it might be seized, but it wasn't.

SO, before you go considering spending all kinds of money at a shop, consider going to Harbor Freight and picking up a slide hammer... wonderful things.... this one has saved me MANY times it's purchase price in less than a year.

[kzbill]

how do you put it back together?

[quaddawg]

I'll let you know Friday, when I put it back together. I had to get a spare hub assembly to replace the center hub on my car (broke a lug off in the one on the car) and I just took the spare apart tonight, just got here in the mail and I wanted to play around with it a little before bed.

I will probably just freeze the hub and heat the bearings a bit, or I do have a couple of different tools that should squeeze them in there. I might even buy a press... been wanting one for a long time.

I do think I can tap them in and then pull them together with the axle nut though... putting them in isn't a big concern to me, but I WILL let you know.

I am going to try the slide hammer on the hub center on the car, without even taking off the knuckle too, it might work. That would save all sorts of time, but I am not sure if I can get it back together, IE: the inner seal and such....

[kzbill]

Good a full report would be nice to see how you preload the bearings

[quaddawg]

If I am not able to seat the bearings against the spacer any other way, I will pull them together with the axle nut, I know that much. I have done similar things, just not this exact one.


You don't actually "preload" this type of hub, you assemble it, and the load/fit is set with different thickness of spacer rings. I am not changing bearings or the knuckle, just the center, so the spacer dimension will not change, or at least it shouldn't. Time will tell.

[Pu241]

quaddawg,

Check this out:

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11679

Scroll down to my post!
Just thought you should know it does work but don't know under race conditions how long your bearings will last. Wife has 160K miles on hers, think she has put 50K or so miles on it so should at least get you through the race.
Good luck this weekend!!!!!!!!!!!

[quaddawg]

quaddawg,

Check this out:

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11679

Scroll down to my post!
Just thought you should know it does work but don't know under race conditions how long your bearings will last. Wife has 160K miles on hers, think she has put 50K or so miles on it so should at least get you through the race.
Good luck this weekend!!!!!!!!!!!

ah yes... sorry, that didn't come up on my search as ROTOR was spelled ROTER in the title.

I try to make posts that are searchable, with information in the title..

Thanks for bringing that post to my attention.

Maybe THIS post will stay up where folks can see it, and find it.. as WAY TOO MUCH MONEY is being wasted taking these to brake shops to put rotors on, not to mention bearings and such.



OK, I finished the job this morning, took about 30 minutes, taking my time.

I had to replace the hub center, so I had to do more than just pull the hub and replace the rotor and squeeze them back together.

YES it's harder than simply unbolting and bolting something on. but,
NO, you don't have to take it somewhere.

The car makes a perfect fixture for the slide hammer.

All you have to do to replace rotors is:

#1, jack up and remove wheel
#2, remove caliper with a 12mm socket
#3, remove axlenut, I had a 30mm socket, 6 point and it worked fine, although I think it might be a tad smaller actually.. but it was fine
#4 attach a slide hammer with a crowsfoot puller (kind of a y shaped thing if you don't know what it is) to the hub with two lug bolts
#5 Whack it a few times and the hub comes right out.. no need to mess with the axle or knuckle or ball joint or tie rod ends.
#6 remove rotor with a 14mm socket (6 point!!)
#7 install new rotor
#8 slide assembly back into the knuckle, carefully centering it on the axle, and into the inner bearing. Make sure the outer seal is flat against the hub center, and that you have the bearing spacer installed on the hub.
#9 start the axle nut and ease it down, pulling the whole assembly together. Run the axle nut down tight to seat everything.
#10 at this point, I like to check smoothness and rotation of the hub and all, to make sure everything feels right.
#11. reinstall caliper with new pads if that is what you are doing.
#12 reinstall wheel, test drive...


Now, if you are doing bearings, seals.. etc.. I wouldn't recommend this procedure unless you know how to check the bearing spacing, as it might change with new componants.. I actually did change hubs but I reused the bearings and knuckle, and I lucked out and the tolerances were within spec. The car drives fine and has zero bearing noise, I will keep an eye on it.

I installed the bearing on the hub with an old spacer and an appropriate size piece of pipe, gently in a vise, using the vise as a press, as I didn't feel like dropping another $60-100 at harbor frieght for a press, yet.. lol..


I agree, it's not a job for those that don't really work on things a lot, but if you are mechanically inclined, I see no reason to waste a ton of money getting a shop to do this.. hell most of the shops don't have a clue how to set this type of preload either, it's a crap shoot unless you take it to a certified mechanic with experience setting up this type of bearing assembly..

all in all, it took me about 40 minutes of actual working time, and that is because I hadn't done it before.. I am sure I could replace the rotors next brake job, in about 20 minutes a side, tops. probably much less if I were trying to go fast, it is really pretty simple once you know the procedure.

Disclaimer... kids, don't blame me if you mess this up giving it a try, I have been working on cars/trucks/farm equip. for over 45 years, and I can generally look at something and see what needs to be done. BUT, you might as well learn to save money and do it yourself....

[FestYboy]

#3 use 29mm 6pt socket to remove axle nut (it's an odd size, but i got mine at AutoZone for ~$6)

[quaddawg]

#3 use 29mm 6pt socket to remove axle nut (it's an odd size, but i got mine at AutoZone for ~$6)

THANKS!!! I thought my 30 was a tad too big.. I wouldn't attempt a 30 in 12 point, but the 30mm 6pt. seemed fine for the axle nut

I think I will go grab a 29 later today to have it for next time.

Thanks FestyBoy..

[kzbill]

didn't know you weren't changing the bearings... my bad. I do the bearings and seals each time I remove the hub but usually the bearings are toast when I remove them cause someone else "replaced them" before leaving out the spacer or using the old one with new bearings. many times the hubs are hacked up by removing the bearing with a chisel.
I wasn't thinking of not replacing the bearings.

[worfdog]

a 1 1/8 inch socket will also fit the axle nut.its a nice tight fit.

[quaddawg]

a 1 1/8 inch socket will also fit the axle nut.its a nice tight fit.

I have 4 different 1 1/8's and none of them fit... strange...

[festerzilla]

Thanks for this writeup quaddawg, I'm sure this is the way most garages would handle a basic rotor and pad replacement on these cars, without taking the spindle off or messing with the bearings at all. I wish I had told the shop to do the bearings while they were in there when I got mine done years ago. The replacement axle nuts that come with the CVs and the stock ones are different sizes, I've had luck with the 1 1/8" on the stock ones.

[quaddawg]

Thanks for this writeup quaddawg, ................................................ The replacement axle nuts that come with the CVs and the stock ones are different sizes, I've had luck with the 1 1/8" on the stock ones.

No problem, and.....

OK, that makes sense, as I know these are not stock, they were replaced by the previous owner when he put the slotted rotors on, as were the bearings, they were in perfect shape, so I just greased them and reused them.

[mullet man]

thread back from the dead

thanks for the info!
i'm "parting up" for a front brake job on my '89.
i'm doing calipers, rotors, pads, seals and bearings. all autozone parts, 1 day and part at a time so i can use my rewards card lol

how would you go about checking the spacing for the bearings? maybe using a measuring caliper on the old ones before removal?

FYI, i havent taken the front end apart yet to see what everything looks like for an idea on what to do.

BTW, Pu241, that link you posted on page 1 of this thread is no longer available. i would've liked to been able too have a look at that info.