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  • #16
    Originally posted by kzbill
    yup! I did it but they dont' need grease they are UHMW plastic the only grease that works with that that I know of is food grade grese or maybe silicone based. I am not sure if synthetics work but if the are compatible with UHMW i want to know so I can start to grease them.
    The only UHMW material I know made in industrial quantities is UHMW-PE
    Ultra High Molecular weight PolyEthylene and it is pretty resistant to most chemicals and depending upon how they were made may already be self-lubricated (No Gforcefd, not that kind of lubrication) but if you fell you need more you'll be safe using just about anything, only high temps and UV will degrade these type of materials.
    '93 Blue 5spd 230K(down for clutch and overall maintanence)
    '93 White B6 swap thanks to Skeeters Keeper
    '92 Aqua parts Car
    '93 Turquoise 5spd 137K
    '90 White LX Thanks to FB71

    "Your God of repentance will not save you.
    Your holy ghost will not save you.
    Your God plutonium will not save you.
    In fact...
    ...You will not be saved!"

    Prince of Darkness -1987

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    • #17
      If a grit substance such as sand adheres to grease on a UHMW then it will be scratched and worn. Better to let it stay dry unless you are dealing with a limited event like using UHMW pads to launch a large vessel. We use a lot of UHMW in our program and always leave it dry.
      it runs so sweet
      91 L 5spd

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      • #18
        Thanks sir I may try I just didn't like the warning that grease may pick up dirt and take it through the bearing but I spose if I keep greasing and push it out it may be ok.
        it runs so sweet
        91 L 5spd

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        • #19
          Suspect sand in metal bearing is worse!
          In UHMW-PE it might inbed itself in the material, but isn't going to grind awy at the surface like it would in a metal bearing.
          I wouldn't expect much to get past the boot on these anyway and if you have sand in your grease you need a new source.

          Kzbill, nice job trackibng down your sick festivas problems!
          '93 Blue 5spd 230K(down for clutch and overall maintanence)
          '93 White B6 swap thanks to Skeeters Keeper
          '92 Aqua parts Car
          '93 Turquoise 5spd 137K
          '90 White LX Thanks to FB71

          "Your God of repentance will not save you.
          Your holy ghost will not save you.
          Your God plutonium will not save you.
          In fact...
          ...You will not be saved!"

          Prince of Darkness -1987

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by skeeters_keeper View Post
            The ball joint boot is energy suspension part#9.13101


            i have some old aspire LCA's, i think i'm going to drill into the back of one of them and see if i can install a grease fitting myself. Then i can just by a few grease nipples and be able to grease whatever i want! Anyone tried doing this their self before?
            Can the LCA ball joint boot be used for the tie rod end too, or is it a different size and part #?
            90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
            09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

            You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

            Disaster preparedness

            Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

            Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

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            • #21
              I miss Monsoon. :razz:

              Good question though.
              Festiva: Because even my dog can build a Honda.
              ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

              '90 L. B8ME/Kia Rio 5 speed. Rio/Aspire suspension swap. :-D
              '81 Mustang. Inline 6, Automatic.
              '95 Eagle Summit Wagon. 4G64 Powered.

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              • #22
                Same part.
                ~Nate

                the keeper of a wonderful lil car, Skeeter.

                Current cars:
                91L "Skeeter" 170k, Aspire brakes, G15, BP, Advancedynamics coil overs, etc. My first love.
                1990 Kawasaki Ninja 250 - my gas saver, 60+mpg - 40k
                2004 MotoGuzzi Breva - my "longer range" bike - 17k

                FOTY 2008 winner!

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by TominMO View Post
                  Can the LCA ball joint boot be used for the tie rod end too, or is it a different size and part #?
                  2 different parts....the diameter of the studs are different. But...in the help section they sell a 2 pack of boots that have 1 of each size in them. I just bought 2 packs and replaced mine.
                  "FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
                  89L Silver EFI auto
                  91GL Green Auto DD
                  There ain't no rest for the wicked
                  until we close our eyes for good.
                  I will sleep when I die!
                  I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!

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                  • #24
                    I should have specified that I used the same part, but I have aspire outer rod ends... although I'm pretty sure the diameter of the aspire and festiva OTRE at the large end of the taper is the same, its only the taper that is different... guess it was a "close enough" fit so I used the same ones since I had them.
                    ~Nate

                    the keeper of a wonderful lil car, Skeeter.

                    Current cars:
                    91L "Skeeter" 170k, Aspire brakes, G15, BP, Advancedynamics coil overs, etc. My first love.
                    1990 Kawasaki Ninja 250 - my gas saver, 60+mpg - 40k
                    2004 MotoGuzzi Breva - my "longer range" bike - 17k

                    FOTY 2008 winner!

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Drilling the pressed steel cap on ball joints and tie rods in order to retrofit grease nipples is relatively simple. (power drill and tap & die set) but how to keep the metal filings out of the mix is a whole other matter. You just can't win.

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                      • #26
                        A few ways to keep out drilling debris, place a bit of grease on the drill bit to collect the filings or better yet, place a shopvac directly near the spot your drilling. The vacuum will suck up the filings before they can enter the ball joint.
                        Tim
                        '97 Aspire ST, UltraViolet Blue, 37k miles - New Storage Queen
                        '03 SVT Lightning, Dark Shadow Gray, 30k miles - Storage Queen 11 months/year
                        '95 SVT Aspire B3T, Green Mica, 75k miles - DD
                        '01 ZX-500R, Violet Pearl/Gray, 5400 miles - Storage Queen
                        '89 Suzuki FA50 Bright Red - Lake Transportation


                        Cardomain.com/id/aspiresvt

                        Previous Vehicles
                        '92 Festiva L "Sport" Green Mica
                        '92 Festiva GL Blue Pearl
                        '92 Capri XR2 Performance Red

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