Fusible link rating

[asboy]

Does anyone know the amperage rating for the main fusible link in a 1990 Festiva?

My main fusible link was looking a little burnt, but I can't figure out what to replace it with. No one seems to have Festivas in their databases and my Haynes manual doesn't say what rating to get. (The block says "red.")

I put in a 30A (pink) cartridge type link, which fits, but I'm worried that the rating may be wrong, and since I don't know why my link was looking burnt, that could be bad.

[FestivaBiker1971]

i'll check my evtm in the morning (at work). should have the fuse link gauge.

[Rich Norman]

Re: Fusible link rating

Does anyone know the amperage rating for the main fusible link in a 1990 Festiva?

25-amp OEM. Ford came out with TSB 92222 in 1992, suggesting upgrading to 35-amp for the Festiva.

You should check to make sure the wiring and connections are in good condition ( always good practice prior to upgrading to a larger fuse when circuit will allow you to safely do so ).

[asboy]

Thanks for the info! Since my 30A link splits the difference between the original and the later recommendation, I think I'll just stick with it.

[nattyphysicist]

no 35A!

I face the same problem of trying to figure out what the fusible link rating should be. I tried a 35 amp fuse and it was working great until yesterday when my charging light came on and my battery soon died. I found my fuse holder melted and the fuse broken. I propose that the rating needs to be higher, but by how much? I think I will go to a 40A fusible link and see what happens.

Or could there be a different problem in my system, say the alternator? I think I may get the alternator checked just in case.

Incidentally, I found fusible links that fit the Festiva at Canadian Tire. I'll post a photo once I get my new one.

Nat

[FB71]

if its burning out a 35 amp fuse, you definitely have a problem. start by having the alt checked, but the failure may not show until the alt is hot.

[nattyphysicist]

if its burning out a 35 amp fuse, you definitely have a problem. start by having the alt checked, but the failure may not show until the alt is hot.

Do you know what the link should be rated at?

[FB71]

Re: Fusible link rating

Does anyone know the amperage rating for the main fusible link in a 1990 Festiva?

25-amp OEM. Ford came out with TSB 92222 in 1992, suggesting upgrading to 35-amp for the Festiva.

You should check to make sure the wiring and connections are in good condition ( always good practice prior to upgrading to a larger fuse when circuit will allow you to safely do so ).

This was only a few posts up....

[mattswabb]

So the red spot gets a 25 amp (upgrade to a 35 amp), what is the brown fuse link amp rating? My car has a green one which I guess may be homemade. I want to replace them all.

matt

[FB71]

the other two are supposed to be brown, 15A

[nattyphysicist]

Can anyone tell me the voltage across the main fusible link terminals with the fusible link removed? I am getting 8V and I think this indicates a short. My fusible link blew again today and my charging light came on. I was using one rated at 30A.

Thanks,
Nat

[nattyphysicist]

wiring diagram / schematic?

Where can I find a wiring diagram of the entire 91 Festiva system? I'm trying to piece it together from the Haynes manual, but I think I found a mistake.

In particular, I want to know about the main fusible link circuit. What devices in this circuit could be causing a high current draw when the car is turned on?

I replaced my fusible link with a 35A fuse again. When the car is off, the fuse is fine, not hot and doesn't blow. I start the car and the fuse gets warm.

As far as I can tell, the Haynes manual only shows some of the lights connected to that circuit. It didn't look like circuits coming from the "run" or "start" ignition key positions were affected by the fusible link. But now it appears that these circuits are connected. So I am trying to get a clear picture of the system before I tear everything apart.

Please help! Thanks,
Nat

[FB71]

the two brown links feed the headlamps and eec system. the red one feeds everything else from the main link, it branches into two feeds, one to the alt and the other to the fuse panel inside. I have a suspicion that your alt may be developing a shorted rotor. disconnect the battery lead from the alt, start the car and see what happens. If it doesn't blow or get warm, pull the alt, take it to a local parts store and have them check it.

[nattyphysicist]

the two brown links feed the headlamps and eec system. the red one feeds everything else from the main link, it branches into two feeds, one to the alt and the other to the fuse panel inside. I have a suspicion that your alt may be developing a shorted rotor. disconnect the battery lead from the alt, start the car and see what happens. If it doesn't blow or get warm, pull the alt, take it to a local parts store and have them check it.

I actually took both the battery and the alternator out and had them tested at Canadian Tire. They said both were fine. But I will try what you suggest to double check.

[FB71]

are they checking current draw on the field, or just output voltage? voltage checks won't show a rotor with low resistance/ high current draw. you need to do an amperage check on the field (rotor). Take it to an auto parts/supply store, not a tire joint. most of those guys couldn't diagnose their way out of a paper bag, and couldn't fix a sandwich.