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  • Front End Noise

    Hello everyone! I'm so glad this site exists!

    I have a '95 Aspire that I bought about two years ago with about 190,000 miles on it. It's the definition of an econobox, as it came with zero of the factory options. Stereo without a cassette player, no ABS, no Power Steering, no rear window defogger, manual transmission, no spoiler, no tach, or really anything else remotely luxurious. The car has leaks from the front camshaft, crankshaft, and oil pump seals, so it eats about a quart of oil every 300 miles. Because of that leak, I've also had to replace the alternator once (with a new Duralast unit. Love that lifetime warranty!), and the accessory drive belt twice. I also replaced the driver's side front wheel bearing about 2000 miles ago, and the passenger's outer CV boot about 2300 miles ago. The balljoints and tie rod ends have a lot of play in them (which are the first thing on my to-do list when I finish my advanced automotive training) and of course everything is kind of oil soaked because of the leaks.

    I replaced and bedded the front brake pads yesterday morning (the rotors looked pretty good, so I kept them), as well as replaced the front two tires (which I had mounted and balanced, then rechecked and retorqued the wheel lugs), checked and adjusted the rear brakes, replaced the accessory drive belt, restored the headlights, and cleaned it out. I'm home from school for Christmas break, so I have a lot of holiday driving to do. The only noteworthy thing that happened is that when I compressed the front left caliper, it oozed a few drops of brake fluid, but I put it all back together, pumped it up 40 times and held it for an hour, and couldn't get it to leak at all. The brakes also felt great the whole 3 hour drive to mom's house today. I also used anti-seize in place of brake grease for the guide pins when I assembled it, in case that makes any difference, and I didn't use any sort of stop-squeal to adhere the pads to the calipers simply because I've never had to before.

    So here's whats going on. When I get the car on the highway from 40mph to 70mph, there's a clicking sound from the front end. It goes away above 70mph, and below 40mph. If I downshift into 4th and bury my foot in it, it doesn't make noise. If I let my foot off the throttle in 5th and let the engine coast down, it doesn't make noise. It only seems to make noise when I maintain a constant speed. If it's making the noise and a put the clutch in, the noise goes away. I haven't gotten the chance to jack it up and check under it, but I'm going to in the morning.

    So I guess my question is, does anyone have any idea what it could be? I'm far from done driving it, and it doesn't seem dangerous. Any guesses on what to look for?

  • #2
    Originally posted by Dustman985 View Post
    Hello everyone! I'm so glad this site exists!

    I have a '95 Aspire that I bought about two years ago with about 190,000 miles on it. It's the definition of an econobox, as it came with zero of the factory options. Stereo without a cassette player, no ABS, no Power Steering, no rear window defogger, manual transmission, no spoiler, no tach, or really anything else remotely luxurious. The car has leaks from the front camshaft, crankshaft, and oil pump seals, so it eats about a quart of oil every 300 miles. Because of that leak, I've also had to replace the alternator once (with a new Duralast unit. Love that lifetime warranty!), and the accessory drive belt twice. I also replaced the driver's side front wheel bearing about 2000 miles ago, and the passenger's outer CV boot about 2300 miles ago. The balljoints and tie rod ends have a lot of play in them (which are the first thing on my to-do list when I finish my advanced automotive training) and of course everything is kind of oil soaked because of the leaks.

    I replaced and bedded the front brake pads yesterday morning (the rotors looked pretty good, so I kept them), as well as replaced the front two tires (which I had mounted and balanced, then rechecked and retorqued the wheel lugs), checked and adjusted the rear brakes, replaced the accessory drive belt, restored the headlights, and cleaned it out. I'm home from school for Christmas break, so I have a lot of holiday driving to do. The only noteworthy thing that happened is that when I compressed the front left caliper, it oozed a few drops of brake fluid, but I put it all back together, pumped it up 40 times and held it for an hour, and couldn't get it to leak at all. The brakes also felt great the whole 3 hour drive to mom's house today. I also used anti-seize in place of brake grease for the guide pins when I assembled it, in case that makes any difference, and I didn't use any sort of stop-squeal to adhere the pads to the calipers simply because I've never had to before.

    So here's whats going on. When I get the car on the highway from 40mph to 70mph, there's a clicking sound from the front end. It goes away above 70mph, and below 40mph. If I downshift into 4th and bury my foot in it, it doesn't make noise. If I let my foot off the throttle in 5th and let the engine coast down, it doesn't make noise. It only seems to make noise when I maintain a constant speed. If it's making the noise and a put the clutch in, the noise goes away. I haven't gotten the chance to jack it up and check under it, but I'm going to in the morning.

    So I guess my question is, does anyone have any idea what it could be? I'm far from done driving it, and it doesn't seem dangerous. Any guesses on what to look for?
    Noises that go away when pushing the clutch in normally indicate a bad throw out bearing.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    "Fred" 93 Festiva L B6-ME Swap
    “Though he is small, he is but fierce.”

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    • #3
      Originally posted by dalebwilson View Post

      Noises that go away when pushing the clutch in normally indicate a bad throw out bearing.
      Even without the noise happening at high speeds or low speeds?
      Either way, I'm gonna yank the cover off and inspect it. I hadn't even thought about the throwout bearing! And given the spotty service record of the car, it wouldn't surprise me.
      Last edited by Dustman985; 12-25-2018, 09:16 PM.

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      • #4
        Actually its the other way around. If there is noise when you push the clutch its a bad throw out bearing. Its not doing anything with the clutch engaged

        Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

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        • #5
          It sounds like cv shafts to me, does the clicking change as you go around corners at constant load?
          I had a dust shield do something similar this summer, make sure you didnt push one too close to the rotor.
          When was the last time you checked your transmission fluid level? Maybe the cv shaft seals are leaking and its low on fluid

          Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

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          • #6
            ^^ 2nd the front axle CV bearings. Go to an empty parking lot and drive slowly in tight cirlces forward and reverse and listen for the clicking. Good luck.
            Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by ryanprins13 View Post
              It sounds like cv shafts to me, does the clicking change as you go around corners at constant load?
              I had a dust shield do something similar this summer, make sure you didnt push one too close to the rotor.
              When was the last time you checked your transmission fluid level? Maybe the cv shaft seals are leaking and its low on fluid


              I was actually thinking it sounded like a CV shaft, since it wasn't constant. It doesn't make noise at low speed, so I can't really tell, but if I drift back and forth in my lane it does click, but only under load. I'll peel back the boots and make sure the outsides are greased, then check the fluid level in the transaxle (which I actually haven't done since I've had the car). Thank you guys so much for your help!

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              • #8
                Originally posted by ryanprins13 View Post
                Actually its the other way around. If there is noise when you push the clutch its a bad throw out bearing. Its not doing anything with the clutch engaged

                Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
                It can be either depending on how the T.O. bearing assembly is failing...
                No car too fast !

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                • #9
                  The balljoints and tie rod ends have a lot of play in them (which are the first thing on my to-do list when I finish my advanced automotive training)

                  Get on those balljoints and tie rod ends now! Don't wait. Those are crucial safety pieces. Even using the cheapest new ones is a big safety upgrade compared to ones that have a lot of play. "Cheap" in this case mainly means that the boots will decompose sooner; but you will still get a couple or three years' life out of them.

                  You can extend the life of all rubber boots by spraying Armor All on them, BTW, to combat their drying out.

                  If the CV boots aren't torn, likely the bearings have grease in there.
                  Last edited by TominMO; 12-26-2018, 10:17 AM.
                  90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
                  09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

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                  Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

                  Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

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                  • #10
                    ^^ Yep. I had a ball joint separate as I was turning to exit a parking lot. Pulled the axle out of the transmission. Really inconvenient. Not to mention the cost of a tow.
                    Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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                    • #11
                      I had a ball joint separate on a year-old Fiat once while exiting I-93 in MA, locking up and collapsing the right front wheel. The skid mark I left is probably still there!
                      88L black, dailydriver
                      88LX silver a/c, dailydriver
                      4 88/89 disassembled
                      91L green
                      91GL aqua pwrsteer
                      92GL red a/c reardmg
                      3 93L blue, 2 dailydriver, 1 frontdmg
                      1952 Cessna170B floatplane

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Dragonhealer View Post

                        It can be either depending on how the T.O. bearing assembly is failing...
                        Oh? Interesting. I thought it didnt do anything when the clutch pedal was up unless you had the cable too tight. So what is it doing or how does it make noise if its failing when the clutch is engaged?

                        Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

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                        • #13
                          When the sliding assembly fails and gets sticky, sticking, then stuck (usually melted at this point) on the nose piece.
                          This is far less common, though have had 3 of these failures in the last year, only one on a Festiva.
                          No car too fast !

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Dragonhealer View Post
                            When the sliding assembly fails and gets sticky, sticking, then stuck (usually melted at this point) on the nose piece.
                            This is far less common, though have had 3 of these failures in the last year, only one on a Festiva.
                            Good to know!

                            Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

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                            • #15
                              I is important that a film of moly grease be put on the nose piece when fitting the T.O. bearing.
                              No car too fast !

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