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My 93 festiva died on the way home from work....

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  • #1

    My 93 festiva died on the way home from work....

    ...Just cut out and died. It will turn over but not start. I thought it might be fuel related. I shot some carb cleaner in the throttle but still won't start. Help trouble shooting will be appreciated. I re ringed this a few years back and haven't had much problems with it since, until now. I don't hear the pump when I turn the key over so that is why I thought it might be fuel related. The car was kinda chugging lately when I tried given her gas, another reason I thought it was fuel related. PLUS, the tank when I first got the car was rusty inside and I scooped out a bunch of rust chunks. Another reason why I thought it might be fuel related. Thanks, Jim
    Update: I tried jumping the relay. I tried 3 wires near the wiper motor cuz I didn't know for sure which wire I was supposed to jump. Anyway, none of them made the fuel pump, pump.
    Last edited by jimdigs; 06-27-2019, 01:04 PM.
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  • #2
    check to see if timing belt broken. Is the coil wire hooked up to the cap? Check to see if you have spark.

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    • #3
      Two things to try re fuel pump. One is the inertia switch which shuts off the pump in an accident or someting. Mine's carburetted and doesn't have one (mechanical pump) so I don't know exaclty where it is but it's behind a little door in the plastic liner in the back of the car. Two is the air flow sensor which has to open before the pump will work. Again, mine doesn't have one but it's in the air intake so near the air filtre somewhere, a door which pivots. Check that it isn't clogged and not opening. .

      PS For the intertia cutoff switch you have to pop the little opening in th eliner and press the switch to get current to the pump again.
      Last edited by WmWatt; 06-28-2019, 05:00 AM.
      Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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      • #4
        To test the fuel pump you have to jump the 2 Pin connector around the brake booster. Make sure fuel is getting to the rail then check for spark at the plugs and if you have both of those then check your compression. You should see around 120PSI+ for the car to run, if it is lower than that on all the cylinders then your timing jumped.
        "The White Turd" 1993 Festiva 144k miles. (Winner of FOTM November 2016)
        sigpic
        "The Rusty Banana" 1990 Yellow 5 Speed Mud Festiva (Lifted with 27" BKT Tractor Tires)(Winner of "Best Beater Award" - Madness 12 - 2018)

        "Papa Smurf" 1992 Blue 5 Speed Shell
        "Cracker?" (name pending) 1992 White Auto Shell (Future BP Swap)
        "Green Car..." Scrap Car that Runs?!?
        "Red Car..." Complete Scrap Car

        "El Flama Blanca" 1993 Festiva 104k miles. (Lil Brothers Car)
        https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzM...ew?usp=sharing

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        • #5
          Thanks for the replies guys. Today, after reading the replies, I started with Studebakers and sure enough the timing belt broke. Weird cuz there wans't a rubber smell or anything. What causes this to happen usually? Just wear over time or could something else cause this? Thanks again guys and Studebaker nailed it right off. I thought I put a new belt on when I did the re ring but maybe I didn't. I'll get a new belt and throw her back on after the 4th, working a lot of overtime right now and thank God I have my 88 festiva as a back up.
          Are our engines non interference? I hope so. Hope I didn't bend rods and what not.
          Last edited by jimdigs; 06-28-2019, 01:10 PM.

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          • #6
            Thank you, it happen to me also. I think the belt is glued together and just comes apart. Thank God for non interference engines. Replace the idler pulley also. Dropping the front of the engine helps to get to the crank pulley bolt.

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            • #7
              On my car the pulley would not quite drop out between the block and body so I put a pry bar in the top motor mount and gave the engine a push and the pulley fell out. To get it back in later I placed it above the opening, used the pry bar again, and the pulled dropped back in. There was no need to lower the block. There was no need to remove the crank bolt nut, just the bolts and screws holding the pulley on. To get at the bolts I rotated the engine (remove spark plugs) until each bolt lined up at the bottom and I could get a socket on it with a flex ratchet. I think I used teh ratchet with Phillips screw driver bit on the screws. The advice in the owner's manual is to replace timing belt every 100k km (that would be 60k mi). It's not hard to do at all. There was something to do about marking position and being careful not to move anything. It's all in the Haynes manual but probably online for as it's a pretty standard procedure for all cars. Or do a search of this website. There;s been lots written about it here. Have fun.
              Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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              • #8
                So have you started it back up again? stbu

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by harpon View Post
                  So have you started it back up again? stbu
                  Nope, haven't messed with it yet. Have been working a lot of overtime. Probably won't mess with it til the 4th weekend.

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