Photo of crank pulley....sorry for not keeping....

[jimdigs]

.....this in the same thread I just wanted to get as much views for help and thought maybe no one would look at my old thread. Anyway, here are a couple photos of the crank pulley on my 93 fesiva. Now I know on late model 93s only, you have to take the crank bolt out in order to get the belt on. Does this look like it should just pull off? I can't budge the thing. I have the little plate off and there are no (2) little phillips screws there. Should I just start beating on the thing with a brass or plastic hammer? I don't want to damage anything.

[WmWatt]

I'd say you've been snookered. That expanded nut (flange nut?) is flush with the pulley hub and looks like it has to come off to remove the pulley. I definitley would NOT start hammering on the pulley. I'd start by saturating the nut and seam with penetrating oil.

[jimdigs]

I'd say you've been snookered. That expanded nut (flange nut?) is flush with the pulley hub and looks like it has to come off to remove the pulley. I definitley would NOT start hammering on the pulley. I'd start by saturating the nut and seam with penetrating oil.

What ya mean "I've been snookered"? By who? I hit it last night with PB blaster. Are you saying you don't think the pulley will come off unless the crank bolt is removed? Thanks for the reply by the way.

[jimdigs]

Okay, now that I have the crank pulley off I see what you mean that I am snookered. I must have the later model 93 that has to have the crank bolt taken out in order to put the timing belt on. Man, I'm just gonna take it to a guy I know to do the rest. I don't wanna drop the engine and all that. Here is a couple photos of what it looks like with the pulley off. So on earlier models I'm guessing it don't look like this?

[jimdigs]

Okay, so I call the guy I want to take it too and he convinces me that "I'm almost there". He probably didn't wanna mess with it either. Anyway, I put a long wrench on the bolt and have the wrench up against the motor mount and cliked the engine a few times and wouldn't ya know it broke loose. Got the bolt out then I had a hard time getting the flange thingy off, Blasted it with PB and let it set awhile, used a screwdriver on both side and it eventually walked off. THANK GOD. Now the hardest part of putting it all back together i my mind anyway is trying to tighten the crank bolt down to spec without everything moving around, any tips on that? Here are a couple pics of the flange thing and the crank bolt. I did have to take the bolt off or the flange thing would never have came off as they butt against each other.

[WmWatt]

Great work! I haven't done one of those but to torque the bolt back on you might try reinserting the pully bolts part way without the pulley and propping one end of a pry bar accross them with the other end on the ground to keep the cranksahft from turning. I seem to recall another method is putting the car in gear and jamming the front wheels to hold the crankshaft still while turning the bolt.

[jimdigs]

Great work! I haven't done one of those but to torque the bolt back on you might try reinserting the pully bolts part way without the pulley and propping one end of a pry bar accross them with the other end on the ground to keep the cranksahft from turning. I seem to recall another method is putting the car in gear and jamming the front wheels to hold the crankshaft still while turning the bolt.

Thanks WmWatt, Do you happen to know the torque spec for the crank bolt? I'm looking in the manual but can't find it. I have read about putting the car in 5th gear and applying the brakes. Thanks again, Jim

[jimdigs]

Well, now I have to order a tensioner and spring. The spring I had was all mangled and not even connected. How can I move the crank to line up the mark without the bolt connected to it? I have to hook everything back up again to move the crank around? I wanted to get it all done today, my last day off. What a pain.

[WmWatt]

Haynes manual has torque for crankshaft sprocket bolt at 80-85. Also I see it says "Remove the crankshaft sproket bolt and pulley hub, if equipped."" so the manual does cover your engine under the "if equipped".

Moving along it says "Temporarily install the crankshaft sprocket bolt I (if removed) and using a socket and breaker bar, rotate the engine to align the crankshaft and camshaft sprocket timing marks (see illustrations). By "see illustrations" it refers to two accompanying photos. Haynes manual page 2A-7. First photo shows camshaft pulley with two marks lining up a 12 and 3 o'clock. Second photo shows crankshaft sprocket mark, also Woodruff key, lining up a 12 o'clock. Hope that helps.

[jimdigs]

I sure appreciate the replies WmWatt. Seems you are the only one out there giving a hand, thanks. I know its a holiday weekend and all though, folks are probably busy. I have it all lined up,now I just have to wait on the mail for the Tensioner and spring. So probably won't get this back together til next weekend. Maybe that is how the belt broke by the tensioner not being tight enough??

[Dragonhealer]

Good work guys!

The belt must have a tiny amount of slack, check at the loosest spot in rotation, about 60° BTDC if I recall correctly.
Update on 1993 crank bolt; torque to 128 lb/ft.
I usually pull the starter to wedge a pry bar in the ring gear of the flywheel.

[jimdigs]

Good work guys!

The belt must have a tiny amount of slack, check at the loosest spot in rotation, about 60° BTDC if I recall correctly.
Update on 1993 crank bolt; torque to 128 lb/ft.
I usually pull the starter to wedge a pry bar in the ring gear of the flywheel.

The service manual says it 80-85 lb/ft.

[Dragonhealer]

That is the correct torque for the small nose crank. Yours is a big nose crank with a larger bolt, which torques to 128 lb/ft

[jimdigs]

That is the correct torque for the small nose crank. Yours is a big nose crank with a larger bolt, which torques to 128 lb/ft

I have the green 93 service manual and in it it shows the crankshaft sprocket attaching bolt 80-85. Are you SURE you are giving me correct info? Why would the manual for this particular year festiva not show the 128? I know there can be mistakes and I have caught one in how much to torques something, the specs to torque the water pump pulley is WAY off in the manual. Where do you find your specs? Thanks, just want to be sure.

[Dragonhealer]

Having checked the thread pitch of the two crank bolts, stock early torque spec will only be a shade low (due to the larger diameter, more surface area of contact) on the late bolt.
the spec comes from Mazda when they introduced the big nose crank, Mazda323, Miata, Capri, Escort etc.
on a B3 85/90 lb/ft will be fine.

PS got my specs from 1991 Miata FSM