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Hi guys!
My 1997 Ford Aspire has 90k miles on it and ever since I bought it, it would idle rough. I don't like my engine to idle rough so I started doing these things:
Replaced brake booster (thinking this was a major vacuum leak).
Replaced spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor.
Replaced air filter, cleaned MAF, replaced vacuum hoses going from IAC to vacuum reservoir to intake.
Replaced injectors, cleaned intake, removed IAC, disassembled IAC and cleaned it (not recommended, lots of springs inside IAC).
Replaced fuel filter, fuel pump.
Replaced motor mounts, then reverted to old ones and added polyurethane to strengthen them.
Replaced temperature sensor underneath throttle body, then adjusted idle screw.
Added all sorts of gas additives.
Up to this point, the engine idled exactly the same. MPGs in city went up from 32 to 34 but no change in idle. During this whole time was still getting code for IAC valve.
Then:
Replaced Timing belt and components
Replaced front left CV axle
LIGHTLY cleaned EGR
Did some more research, found out that sometimes, the diaphragm in the fuel pressure regulator can puncture and cause weird idle issue. Checked this for vacuum leak, not the case in my car.
Idle got worse. Engine was shaking so badly that I thought it would shake the gear lever out of gear!
FINALLY FINALLY
Decide to give the EGR another look.... Looked at videos on how to clean EGR valves.... I took off EGR valve, very easy to do. Two vacuum lines to disconnect, one electrical plug and two 12mm screws. You remove it and you will have to thoroughly spray carb cleaner in the valve itself, you will get a lot of junk spray so take precautions. If you have a vacuum pump available, give it some vacuum on the top and check for smooth operation. Then, this is something I didn't do before, I checked the holes in the engine to where the EGR connects.... I took some wire and stuck it in there and tried to clean it all out as best as I could, then I sprayed and sprayed carb cleaner in those holes and tons of junk came out. Then used the wire again to clean more thoroughly. Dried everything off, then connected everything back up and you guessed it, THE ENGINE IDLES A LOT BETTER!!! It is not perfect but it is a HELL OF A LOT BETTER.
I should have done this before replacing everything else but I couldn't find any clear indications as to idle faults on the Aspire. So there you have it!!!!!! If you are having idle issues and can't find any obvious vacuum leaks, try cleaning your EGR THOROUGHLY! It is very easy to do, even by the noob enthusiast. Don't wait to do it! You will be glad you did it!
My 1997 Ford Aspire has 90k miles on it and ever since I bought it, it would idle rough. I don't like my engine to idle rough so I started doing these things:
Replaced brake booster (thinking this was a major vacuum leak).
Replaced spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor.
Replaced air filter, cleaned MAF, replaced vacuum hoses going from IAC to vacuum reservoir to intake.
Replaced injectors, cleaned intake, removed IAC, disassembled IAC and cleaned it (not recommended, lots of springs inside IAC).
Replaced fuel filter, fuel pump.
Replaced motor mounts, then reverted to old ones and added polyurethane to strengthen them.
Replaced temperature sensor underneath throttle body, then adjusted idle screw.
Added all sorts of gas additives.
Up to this point, the engine idled exactly the same. MPGs in city went up from 32 to 34 but no change in idle. During this whole time was still getting code for IAC valve.
Then:
Replaced Timing belt and components
Replaced front left CV axle
LIGHTLY cleaned EGR
Did some more research, found out that sometimes, the diaphragm in the fuel pressure regulator can puncture and cause weird idle issue. Checked this for vacuum leak, not the case in my car.
Idle got worse. Engine was shaking so badly that I thought it would shake the gear lever out of gear!
FINALLY FINALLY
Decide to give the EGR another look.... Looked at videos on how to clean EGR valves.... I took off EGR valve, very easy to do. Two vacuum lines to disconnect, one electrical plug and two 12mm screws. You remove it and you will have to thoroughly spray carb cleaner in the valve itself, you will get a lot of junk spray so take precautions. If you have a vacuum pump available, give it some vacuum on the top and check for smooth operation. Then, this is something I didn't do before, I checked the holes in the engine to where the EGR connects.... I took some wire and stuck it in there and tried to clean it all out as best as I could, then I sprayed and sprayed carb cleaner in those holes and tons of junk came out. Then used the wire again to clean more thoroughly. Dried everything off, then connected everything back up and you guessed it, THE ENGINE IDLES A LOT BETTER!!! It is not perfect but it is a HELL OF A LOT BETTER.
I should have done this before replacing everything else but I couldn't find any clear indications as to idle faults on the Aspire. So there you have it!!!!!! If you are having idle issues and can't find any obvious vacuum leaks, try cleaning your EGR THOROUGHLY! It is very easy to do, even by the noob enthusiast. Don't wait to do it! You will be glad you did it!
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