The only special tool you need is a ball joint seperator and a 30mm axel nut socket with a braker bar. Jack up car and remove the 4 14mm wheel studs. Reome the wheel and proceed to take off the tie rod end and the shock assembly, for more room. I believe all the bolts are 14mm or 17mm. Don't forget to take off the big axel nut in the center of the spindle. With the car jacked up get under it and place the ball joint seperator behind the cv joint that goes into the end of the trans mission and give it a couple good whacks. Reverse the procedure adn your finished. With all the tools at hand i can do one in 15-20 minutes.
You have to remove the control arm/ball joint from the steering knuckle. I don't think you have to unbolt the strut or remove the tie rod end. The whole assy will swing out of the way so you can remove the halfshaft from the wheel hub. Replace your stake nuts and cir clips. Drain tranny fluid first.
sigpic The Don - Midwest Festiva Inc., Missouri Chapter
PS: Id replace both sides at once, don't let the axle dangle from the trans axle without support or you will damage the oil seal. Use a differential plug ( 3/4 inch dowel rod or equivalent ) If you do both sides at once.
sigpic The Don - Midwest Festiva Inc., Missouri Chapter
just unbolt the axle nut and lug nuts, undo the tie rod end and give it a good whack on teh axle sticking through the hub. it will give way and then you just move the whole assembly out away from it. comes out easy. after this, get a pry bar, and wedge between the axle and the tranny. give it a good pull witht he crow bar. keep someone on the end rotating it and moving it around because there's a single certain point that it will give at and you need to catch it there. so keep pulling. doesn't take much pulling. if it doesn't give its not in the right spot. just keep rotating and pulling with the pry bar and the end. careful.. the joints can split apart inside the boot if you pull to hard. gluck. remember to grease up everything with axle grease on reassembly.
Get a remanufactured axel don't rebuild it.....for 50 bucks it's less headache to replace....you don't have to remove the LCA from the spindle you have enough room without it.
Ok I was just wondering about be taking the lower control arm off and me not getting the shock n spring back up enough to get it all together cus i dont have a spring compresser and my axel is shot it makes a wonder CLUNKING sound
TO remove the control arm, I usually remove it from the car body, and not from the knuckle, MUCH easier.........
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You have to remove the control arm/ball joint from the steering knuckle. I don't think you have to unbolt the strut or remove the tie rod end. The whole assy will swing out of the way so you can remove the halfshaft from the wheel hub. Replace your stake nuts and cir clips. Drain tranny fluid first.
BINGO! Don't touch the strut and drain the tranny.
I would warn against a tie rod separator tool...they should be used as a last resort...they can cause damgae to the ttie rod/seal.
What should be tried first...loosen the nut until the face of the nut is flush with or 1 thread beyond the stud (male thread). Then tap the nut with a soft mallet (brass/lead) untill it drops out...then take the nut all the way off. A piece of hardwood between the nut and steel hammer is a good substitute.
Always a good idea to change the seal at the tranny and wheel knuckle at this time.
Joe Lutz
The SKATE ..... 1992L 5spd
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Ok I was just wondering about be taking the lower control arm off and me not getting the shock n spring back up enough to get it all together cus i dont have a spring compresser and my axel is shot it makes a wonder CLUNKING sound
the strut and spring are an assembly the only way your going to need a spring compressor is if you remove the center nut under the plastic cap on top of the strut tower.
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