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Oil pan struggles 93'

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  • Oil pan struggles 93'

    I can't get the nut on and it stripped out any suggestions

  • #2
    That looks like the stud in the oil seal retainer. That is really a hard to reach area when removing or replacing the oil pan. The steel stud goes into the aluminum retainer and is near impossible to remove from under the car. I'm sure you are not ready to remove the transmission to get to the rear main seal to replace the entire retainer ring.
    Not positive it will work but you might try a thread cutting nut (not sure of the size). They are not meant for this but one might get it tight enough to hold for a while. Just snug one up and don't try to put much torque to it.

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    • #3
      Thanks, 1990. I didn't know if it was a fixed or removable bolt. Usually with nuts which won't go on readily I clean the treads with a wire brush or broken piece of hacksaw blade or both. It looks like the bolt could be cut off and removed but getting a replacement in from above would be a problem. Maybe there is enough room that bolt could be cut and removed and a short bolt could be put in from below with the nut on top. Another less suitable solution might be to drill a hole through the bolt and insert a cotter pin to hold the nut in place. Good luck with it.
      Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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      • #4
        This link has a picture of what the seal retainer looks like. The only way to get to it is to remove the transmission and the flywheel. If you have the transmission out, it's really not very difficult to remove the flywheel and the ring to replace the rear crank seal. I have replaced them at least two times in the past. Currently have a friends 1991 sitting in the driveway that will need the transmission removed to reseat the clutch fork lever and put in new bushings. Probably will replace the crank seal while the transmission is out when I help him fix his problem. Now that the weather outside is bearable, I will probably get that job done soon.
        Cheaper one on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/46T118-Rear...-/133458732930

        https://oemusedautoparts1.com/produc...SABEgIdMfD_BwE
        Last edited by 1990new; 09-30-2020, 10:06 AM.

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        • #5
          Thankyou for the responses. I decided to just put it back on for now until I had the time to actually tear that stuff off I plan on doing it this month. Fyi this is the first vehicle I've actually worked on my self so i am sure I'll be back for more advice. My buddy suggested re tapping the home? Is that possible ??

          But more recently I was looking at the exauhst and when I poked it with a stick the danm thing got a hole in it then I shook it to see how sturdy it was and it fell off. The rust really took a tole on it lol I'm going to make a new thread for that project.


          Thanks y'all
          Ky

          Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

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          • #6
            OK regarding the exhaust... the exhaust pipe behind the cat is probably rusted too so check it and get the pipe and muffler at the same time. It is not that difficult to replace if you be sure not to destroy the threads on the rear of the cat. Spray some pb blaster on those nuts every day for several days so you will have a better chance getting the nuts off without ruining the bolts if you ruin them you will make it a much bigger problem to get you new exhaust pipe on. The rubber hangers are pretty easy to find but don't pay too much for them.

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