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Tips for control arm removal and replacement

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  • Tips for control arm removal and replacement

    Well I changed my 9 millionth festiva control arm today and thought I should share the things I've learned. I've learned that if the captured nut for the control arm breaks loose(all of mine have) the easiest way to remove things is center punch the head of the bolt, drill a pilot hole then grab a 3/8ths bit and drill all the way through the bolt head.If the bolt spins grab a wrench to hold it. Now put a punch in the hole you just drilled and smack it with a hammer, the headless bolt, and the captured nut will drive straight back into the frame. Fish it out with a magnet. There is no need to cut access holes bend anything etc. Going back in what I've found easiest is get a new 10x70 bolt 2 flat washers 1 lock washer 1 nut, loctite, some fishing line and some tape.. Tie fishing line around the end 2or 3 threads of the bolt leave 2x1 ft tails of fishing line tape those ends together. Use you tape like a needle and the fishing line like thread thread through 1 flat washer push the bolt and washer into the frame rail threads facing forward push the head of the bolt towards the rear of the car until it is behind the access hole. Thread your tape needle through the first mounting hole then through the control arm then through the forward mounting hole. Now pulling on the fishing line wiggling the bolt and wiggling the control arm the will pull through with plenty of thread sticking out . Stick your finger in the hole and put finger pressure on the head of the bolt, twist your fishing line CCW until it threads off. Finger still on bolt head put on 1 flat washer and the nut. Tighten the nut finger tight only for now. Sorry this is so long but it's worth it in the end. I am going to stop right here, and continue posting in the 1st reply box.
    30 + Vehicle projects right now.7 Festiva/Mazda 10 GM IDK how many others,hope that helps explain all the stupid questions/shortcuts/interchanges etc. trying to liquidate so I concentrate on the good ones. Goal finish 1 amonth using as much stuff as I already have accumulated.

  • #2
    That was a lot of detail to write just for 1 trouble bolt.No for the basic r&r I'll assume you know how to jack up the car, remove the wheel and support it on jack stands so do that.

    1. Turn the steering wheel full lock left or right depending on which side your doing full right for left side full left for right side.
    2. Remove the tie rod nut and smack the steering knuckle 2 or 3 times on the side of the steering arm right next to where the tie rod end goes into the knuckle, the tie rod end will pop right out, I promise.
    3.Remove the ball joint pinch bolt and place a looong pry bar ahead of the control arm but behind the stabilizer bar pull down on the bar so the bar pulls the end of the stabilizer bar down which will pull the ball joint out of the knuckle push the knuckle a couple inches forward and let up on the pry bar. The 2 inches was just to keep the ball joint from going back in the knuckle.
    4.remove the stabilizer end nut and washer.
    5.Remove the inner control arm bolt as mentioned in the opening post.
    6.Pry down on the inner end of the control arm making sure the outter end isn't bound under the steering knuckle. Now you will have a control arm held to the car by nothing but the friction of the stabilizer bushings wiggle and pull, you will have a control arm in your hands.
    7. New control arm,and hardware mentioned in opening post thread your hardware as mentioned. And just barely finger tight as mentioned.
    8. Pry down a little on the stabilizer bar and pull the control arm until the stabilizer with 1 bushing on it will go through the control arm, push the other busing on as far as you can by hand as lng as you can start the nut with no washer your fine. Now wiggle the stablerizer just a little up and down while tightening just the nut until the nut is flush with the end of the stabilizer bar, stop there.
    9. Pull the stabilizer bar down and eyeball the angle you need to tap your ball joint to, line it up with its hole in the knuckle, slowly let up on the prybar while lining the knuckle up with the ball joint.
    10. Tap the ball joint into the knuckle with a hammer while pushing the ball joint pinch by in from the front of the car, put the button the pinch bolt.

    Now everything is loosely in place, back off the stabilizer nut and put the washer on and the nut and tighten it. Take the nut back off the control arm bolt put a lock washer on and a drop of loctite in the nut torque to 36 ft lbs. Reinstall the tie rod end and nut replace your wheel and take the car off the jack stands. Only 1 special tool is needed Jegs 778-67575 . That tool n 3/8ths drive a socket that fits your bolt, and a box end wrench will hold the control arm bolt head. Here is where the beauty comes in, next replacement you can hold the bolt head with a socket, heat the nut to melt the loctite and comes back apart like butter



    30 + Vehicle projects right now.7 Festiva/Mazda 10 GM IDK how many others,hope that helps explain all the stupid questions/shortcuts/interchanges etc. trying to liquidate so I concentrate on the good ones. Goal finish 1 amonth using as much stuff as I already have accumulated.

    Comment


    • #3
      That was a lot of detail to write just for 1 trouble bolt.No for the basic r&r I'll assume you know how to jack up the car, remove the wheel and support it on jack stands so do that.

      1. Turn the steering wheel full lock left or right depending on which side your doing full right for left side full left for right side.
      2. Remove the tie rod nut and smack the steering knuckle 2 or 3 times on the side of the steering arm right next to where the tie rod end goes into the knuckle, the tie rod end will pop right out, I promise.
      3.Remove the ball joint pinch bolt and place a looong pry bar ahead of the control arm but behind the stabilizer bar pull down on the bar so the bar pulls the end of the stabilizer bar down which will pull the ball joint out of the knuckle push the knuckle a couple inches forward and let up on the pry bar. The 2 inches was just to keep the ball joint from going back in the knuckle.
      4.remove the stabilizer end nut and washer.
      5.Remove the inner control arm bolt as mentioned in the opening post.
      6.Pry down on the inner end of the control arm making sure the outter end isn't bound under the steering knuckle. Now you will have a control arm held to the car by nothing but the friction of the stabilizer bushings wiggle and pull, you will have a control arm in your hands.
      7. New control arm,and hardware mentioned in opening post thread your hardware as mentioned. And just barely finger tight as mentioned.
      8. Pry down a little on the stabilizer bar and pull the control arm until the stabilizer with 1 bushing on it will go through the control arm, push the other busing on as far as you can by hand as lng as you can start the nut with no washer your fine. Now wiggle the stablerizer just a little up and down while tightening just the nut until the nut is flush with the end of the stabilizer bar, stop there.
      9. Pull the stabilizer bar down and eyeball the angle you need to tap your ball joint to, line it up with its hole in the knuckle, slowly let up on the prybar while lining the knuckle up with the ball joint.
      10. Tap the ball joint into the knuckle with a hammer while pushing the ball joint pinch by in from the front of the car, put the button the pinch bolt.

      Now everything is loosely in place, back off the stabilizer nut and put the washer on and the nut and tighten it. Take the nut back off the control arm bolt put a lock washer on and a drop of loctite in the nut torque to 36 ft lbs. Reinstall the tie rod end and nut replace your wheel and take the car off the jack stands. Only 1 special tool is needed Jegs 778-67575. Link below mine are actual 6pt Craftsman but these popped up first in searcc. That tool and a 3/8ths drive socket that fits your bolt, and a box end wrench will hold the control arm bolt head. Here is where the beauty comes in, next replacement you can hold the bolt head with a socket, heat the nut to melt the loctite and comes back apart like butter


      30 + Vehicle projects right now.7 Festiva/Mazda 10 GM IDK how many others,hope that helps explain all the stupid questions/shortcuts/interchanges etc. trying to liquidate so I concentrate on the good ones. Goal finish 1 amonth using as much stuff as I already have accumulated.

      Comment


      • #4
        Check out post 12 (has picture) in this thread regarding the nut escaping it's cage.
        Post your Festiva or Aspire repair and maintenance issues. - USE THIS FORUM FOR ANY TECHNICAL RELATED POST (IE. How do I change my oil?, How to remove axle from tranny?, etc)

        Comment

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