Suspected failed water pump on 91 Festy in AK

[WmWatt]

Another way of achieving impact which I've found useful in some cases is to hold the socket-and-handle tight against the bolt or screw with one hand and tap on the handle with a hammer in the other hand. You might also try increasing leverage by slipping a piece of pipe over the handle. When philips scew heads are above the surface, for example on the top of the carburettor, I've grabbed the head with a heavy pair of pliers to loosen but I think the head of the screw you are working on is not exposed enough. Also I've turned the crankshaft with a wrench after putting the transmission in netral and removing the spark plugs. Further to Rick's info on belts I've found early on Chinese rubber was not the best but maybe they've got it figured out by now. My current timing belt is from Gates Rubber in the USA.

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

The timing belt I picked up at Napa is made in ... of all places ... Denmark! Maker is "Roulunos;" product is "Ro-Drive. art # is "107 HG 220." Like Alaska, I don't ordinarily think of Denmark as making much of anything for export.

My "little" airplane is a C170 which was upgraded from Continental 6-cyliinder 145hp C145 engine to Lycoming 180hp 4-cylilnder O-360 (with constant-speed Hartzell 2-bladed prop). with Sportsman-brand STOL mods -- primarily fixed-droop leading edge which doesn't impact cruise speed. On wheels, it climbs like a bandit, On floats (EDO 2000s), it still gets off the water quickly, but tops out in cruise at a slow 95mph (vs. close to 140 on wheels) due to aerodynamic drag of the floats and attach hardware. My "big" airplane is an ex-Pan Am 747-200 series with no engines which last flew in 2013 hauling boxes out of Oregon.

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

New WP and timing belt installation complete. It starts and runs normally. I'll test for leaks with water some day when I need to do some driving, then substitute 50/50 antifreeze. I don't want to put water in that might freeze overnight now that we've already had our first hard freeze.

Interestingly, I found two parts under the "base" pulley vs. the one ("#1 timing belt guide") shown in Haynes figure 7.30. See my photo. The extra part is very thin metal -- nothing like the "#5 outer pulley retainer."

The figure on the lower-left of page 21-05-15 of the official Ford Shop Manual also fails to show the additional part, and calls #1 above "baffle."

BTW, syncing the cam and crank sprockets using the stamped/machined timing marks was simple.

Timing belt covers will be cleaned up (including shortening gaskets) before spring installation.

[Rick the Quick]

A 747 with no engines.If you told me you were in New Mexico I'd a thought that you were saying that the homies came by last night and stole them while you were sleeping. However you being in Alaska I imagine you got a smoking deal at an auction. Nice low hour 747 just install 4 GE engines and you're all set for the next 50 years. I wish you hadn't mentioned the 747 cause now I got about a million questions and unfortunately this is a car forum.....LoL.

[WmWatt]

Congratulations on keeping your Festiva on the road.

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

WmWatt,

And thanks for all your help. I can't begin to count how many times you (and others who seem to have departed this forum) have helped me keep my multi-state fleet of Festies operating.



RtQ,

See:

Pan Am 747 Clipper Mercury