Can anyone Identify This Custom Wire from our Main Fuse Block?

[RayRay]

Does anyone have any idea what this wire would do?

It's been custom wired directly into the Main fusible link. The car ('93 4-spd, 129k mi.) ran and drove well last week...this week it's not even attempting to start. Headlights still turn on, but do not dim when attempting to start. Dashboard lights do not come on when turning the key. This is what lead me to the Main fusible link in the first place, only to find someone has "hot wired" this custom wire into the Main fusible link. Anyone have any idea what this wire would go to down in the wiring harness?

Reason for this post... I am: disabled, partially color blind, have bad eyes, have a bad back, and frankly am not that good at diagnostics.

Hoping someone might chime in and say "That would probably lead to the blah blah blah"...which would at least give me an idea which wire to be chasing down once I finally get the main wiring harness opened up.

Thanks in advance for any potential help folks. I realize this is a long shot and will probably entail some surgery into the main wiring harness, but since most wires look exactly alike to me, any help is good help! :-)

[1990new]

The picture is of the main fuse link panel which has a main bus bar for the three front blades and it is connected directly to the positive battery cable.
The back blade of the center fusible link (MAIN) connects to:
1. The alternator/regulator (main white wire)
2. The Fuse Panel (White wire)
3. The Ignition switch (White Wire)
4. (Also to the Condenser Fan Motor only on cars with automatic transmissions)

The red wire shown in the picture which is connected to the link wire (which should be a fuse) will have power to it anytime the positive battery is connected so someone could have put it there to supply constant power to a switch which could be going to addon light or equipment or could be there to bypass a bad wire going to one of the 3 places shown above (assume you have 5 speed manual).

First thing to do is to remove that tape and make sure there is a connection between the front side and back side under there.
The fact that your head lights still turn on means you are getting power to the fuse link panel bus

Main Fuse Link Panel 1992 Festiva.jpg

As an example of supply power from here to an addon on option, on Nellie I have a small wire connected to the back leg of that center fuse.
The wires runs to a plunger switch connected to the left fender ledge and a wire out of that switch goes along the windshield washer tube to the center of the hood and then up to a stick on led light strip in the center of the hood. So anytime I open the hood I have lots of light to see the engine at night.

NOTE: If anyone decides to do this make sure you connect your wire to the back blade so it will be protected by the fuse.

[RayRay]

Once again, Jesse saves the day. You are the Best, my friend.

Thus far I've verified much of the above but will have to continue again tomorrow. Mainly just wanted to say Thank You for your help and guidance with this. :-)

[RayRay]

Quick update... the wire in question simply bypassed the fusible link. The connection of the two wires into one wire had corroded over time, causing a lack of connection which in turn caused the lack of lights on the dash and the lack of power to the starter.

I ripped out the offending pieces and installed a (closely-colored) correct wire coming from the fuse block, and installed a 40 amp PAL fuse to the top of the fuse block, and whaddyaknow, the car starts and drives as well as it did before. Just wanted to close this thread out with some good news.

Sincere thanks again to 1990new for the incredibly helpful info!!! :-)

[WmWatt]

I checked the wiring diagram in the back of the Haynes manual and although not the same diagram it shows the same setup as the one 1990new posted. Both show 3 wires coming out of the alternator, one to the "charging" light on the dash, one ( white) to the battery and all the other stuff on the car, and one (red) just to the battery and it's fuse before the fuse for the white wire so it should not affrect anything. Makes no sense to me so I couldn't suggest anything except as 1990new did, to not bypass fuses. Glad it works now.