HELP! Can't remove valves and springs!!

[ejp2fast]

I am removing my valves and I have the screw type valve spring compressor. According to the haynes manual page 2A-12 they say that once the spring is compressed, remove the keepers with needle nose or magnet... i am having much difficulty doing this!!! I worked over an hour and couldn't get that keeper out, and that was only on 1 spring!!! As i understand, the keeper comes in 2 halves...... also, do i need to put pressure on the valve to move it upward and push the compressed spring downward? I tried this to no avail.... HELP!

[b3 madness]

Is the head off of the engine or still on the engine??

[jglutz]

Wow...very untypical. I think you may not not know what the keepers look like. With out the compressor on...look down at the top of the spring. The first diameter is the valve stem. the next ring/diameter is the keepers...You should notice the two lines 180° apart ( the two halfs of the keeper) And, beyond that is the washer on top of the spring.

Make sure the compressor is not pushing down on the keeepers.
Be sure to grab as much of the spring as possible...bottom coils.
The spring should be almost fully compressed, all coils touching.
It is possible that your pulling the bottom of the spring up and not exposing the keepers, this is typical. If so, just tap the top of the compressor knob to brake it free.
If the valve moves down when you tap it, place a block of wood under the head to keep the valve in place.

This should take less than a ½ hr.

Just a stupid question...do you have the rockers out?

Post if you need some picts.

[rolla4me]

if the head is out of the car, get a socket (w/ extesion) large enough to sit on top of the retainer. Whack it w/ a mallet or hammer.. BAMMMMMM! keepers out.. :thumbright:

[FB71]

if the head is out of the car, get a socket (w/ extesion) large enough to sit on top of the retainer. Whack it w/ a mallet or hammer.. BAMMMMMM! keepers out.. :thumbright:

NNNNOOOOOO!!!!!! I have seen way too many valves bent that way! Valves are much more fragile than you might imagine.

[rolla4me]

if the head is out of the car, get a socket (w/ extesion) large enough to sit on top of the retainer. Whack it w/ a mallet or hammer.. BAMMMMMM! keepers out.. :thumbright:

NNNNOOOOOO!!!!!! I have seen way too many valves bent that way! Valves are much more fragile than you might imagine.

well, never happened to me yet.. knock on wood..

i have this tool and it is very good.. http://shoptoolsshoptools.com/shopexd.asp?id=2257

[ejp2fast]

The head on the bench, and I can compress the spring bringing the bottom part of the spring up.... since my head is off, i could go to autozone and get the C-Clamp style spring compressor.... thankd for the tips... i'll try to get them off tonight.... I have all 8 new valves being shipped. Yes, rocker is out, everything is off the head but springs/valves.

[jglutz]

The head on the bench, and I can compress the spring bringing the bottom part of the spring up.... since my head is off, i could go to autozone and get the C-Clamp style spring compressor.... thankd for the tips... i'll try to get them off tonight.... I have all 8 new valves being shipped. Yes, rocker is out, everything is off the head but springs/valves.

The C-clamp style is superior...Sears sells one for <$30...it's not a K-D or Snap-On but still better than any threaded type.

If changing valves only... it is important that the seats match...the festiva has a dual angle valve... if the seat does not start out well it could destroy the seat...I would strong reccommend having the seats ground to match or at least lap the seats to the valves.

A local machine shop re-gound my existing valve and the seats to match...only $40. My stems and guides where in the middle of factory spec.

[ejp2fast]

yep, i plan on taking to a local place to have it cleaned, machined 0.015-0.020", and to have the seats cleaned up.

[ejp2fast]

ok, i just got the spring/valves out.... ended up gently persuading with a rubber mallet while holding the valve steady....
according to haynes manual, the free length of the valve springs is minimum 1.717".... new they are 1.727" according to rockauto.com....
on ALL 8 SPRINGS i am getting from 1.698" to 1.711"... How critical is this and can i reuse these springs.?

[ejp2fast]

sorry... rockauto.com says free length new is 1.725"...$3/ea

[jglutz]

ok, i just got the spring/valves out.... ended up gently persuading with a rubber mallet while holding the valve steady....
according to haynes manual, the free length of the valve springs is minimum 1.717".... new they are 1.727" according to rockauto.com....
on ALL 8 SPRINGS i am getting from 1.698" to 1.711"... How critical is this and can i reuse these springs.?

This is really dart board type question.

1st) how acurate are you measurments...not that I am questioning you but the device you used. Measurments are statistical not accurate as you may think...just a comment.
2nd) Weak compression springs fail short of OAL (over all length)
3rd) The real test of a spring is height under load...something most automotive machine shops can perform.
4th) The older spring, the more likely to fail.
5th) I would only buy springs from a repitable retailer...Dealer...NAPA...Carquest.
6th) Factory spings +/- 1990 are not a common failure like they were years ago.
7th) Do you want to spend the extra $24?

Did I even hit the dart board? Tough question!

This is my perspective....would be nice for others to list their's

[ejp2fast]

used calipers and even left some room!... I think I am going to keep the old ones... ~120K miles on them...has anyone had a valve spring fail?

[jglutz]

Nope @ 146K