Festiva stalls

[Zfestiva]

This problem started about a month ago. Shortly after warming up, my 1991 Festiva L will stall when you come to a stop. Sometimes it will stall sitting still after running for awhile, but sometimes it will idle perfectly.

The only other problem I had was last week when the alternator/voltage regulator went out. I replaced that and everything is back to normal except for the stalling problem.

I can keep the car running when I come to a light by putting the manual trans into neutral and giving it a little gas. From this I suspect that I could simply increase the idle speed and solve the problem, but I think that is not the right solution.

The reason I believe this is that when it is stalling out, there is a clicking noise that sounds like it is coming from the firewall behind the instrument panel. When I stop at a light, it will click several times and the car will stall.

The car always starts up easily and runs great. What should I check before I try adjusting the idle?

Thanks.

[gottafesty]

Does the clicking stop when the rpm's are higher? Like when you increase engine speed at the stop light.

[jglutz]

Just a start....double check the base timing...can lead to problem like you describe, maybe the dist mounts are loose...just a start.

More so, I would consider the devices, that when turned on, provide an input to the ECA which in turn compensate the RPM's for the device being turned on.
For example: when the Headlights are turned on, When the cooling fan runs, the defrost fan....al tell the ECA o cmpensate for the additional engine load.
There's a thread somewhere that previously discussed the ECA inputs and speciffically those that are critical it idle.

The clicking sound....maybe the Canister Purge Solenoid....just a guess...it should not be cycling at idle (I might be wrong)...If it is cycling and the circuit has a leak, the engine sucks air and not fumes, it could also produce your symptons.

[phantorn]

Try cleaning the throttle body

[WmWatt]

My 89 has done the same without the clicking sound. The following may help.
I would wipe the spark plug and ignition coil wires clean. I do this a couple times a year. You might remove the spark plugs one at a time to clean and gap them. Look at the condition of the sparkplugs. The gap should not be covered in oil or soot, just a light grey or brown powder. You coudl also remove the distributor cap and wipe the contacts. No not clean with sandpaper as that will remove the platinum coating and require the cap and rotor to be replaced.

If that doesn't work I'd proceed with the rest of a regular tune up: check the idle speed and base ignition timing. That requires a tachometer and a timing light plus some information from a manual.

If that doesn't work I'd get the ignition control module inside the distributor tested (free at some auto parts stores). When it's getting old it can cause random stalling, however your car is stalling only at idle which doesn't sound like the ICM so the ICM is would be a long shot.

[Zfestiva]

The clicking is not constant, only when the rpms go down to idle and it will click once and the engine starts to die. If the engine catches back up nothing else happens and all is fine. Otherwise it will click and the engine will die. It seldom clicks more than twice with an accompaning idle rough until it dies or catches back up. Seems to happen only when the engine is warm. The click definately has an electrical/selenoid sound to it.

New plugs and wires, and distributor all looks an acts normal.

What is the ECA? (cannot find it in my Haynes Manual).

I really think the problem is electrical with something that controls the change from acceleration/deceleration to idle speed.

[jglutz]

ECA: Engine Control unit. The computer that controls the engine. I think Haynes referes to it as the ECU.

[Damkid]

ECA: Engine Control unit. The computer that controls the engine. I think Haynes referes to it as the ECU.

just curious but you call it ECA and spell it out as Engine Control Unit, what does the "A" stand for in your reference? it's just i never heard anyone call it an ECA

[scitzz]

Just a dumb question, since a clicking noise could be a wire grounding out......

When was the last time a tune up was done? If the coil to disty wire, especially, is grounding out, my car did the same thing. Also, there is a gasket under the rotor cap that went bad on mine, same thing. A few bad plug wires could do it also......Joes first point may have been spot on, if the timing is erratic, then you could be grounding out. A very easy way to check, at night, in a dark area, look for little blue sparks coming from wires, disty, and coil

[IL4Festiva]

just a thought, correct me if im wrong.
but check your air intake hoses, a crack or whole could be letting more or less oxygen in depending on the weather condition and temperature (o2 is more dense in cold air) although it doesn't explain your clicking problem.

[Zfestiva]

Now it rarely does it. Don't know what is going on, but unless it starts doing it all the time again, I can't find out what is wrong, and it doesn't matter anyway.

Thanks to everyone for trying to help.

[Biglay5150]

Try cleaning the throttle body

My car had the same problem when I bought it. I got some Fuel Injection Parts Cleaner and cleaned the throttle body good and it solved the problem.

[kzbill]

You said you replaced the alternator/regulator, so why did you do that, battery bad?

[Zfestiva]

The alternator was bad.......light came on.....battery drained. Took alternator out of car and took to local auto parts store where it failed their test. Was obviously bad.

[Zfestiva]

The alternator was bad.......light came on.....battery drained. Took alternator out of car and took to local auto parts store where it failed their test. Was obviously bad. Battery was old and also tested bad. Replaced both and that took care of it. Perhaps this was linked to the stalling problem?