problem removing axle nut

[TJinPgh]

Hi all.

got the new half shafts from Advance yesterday and have a couple of questions related to the axle nut.

I bought an axle nut socket from the parts store that fit the new nut that came with the axle. The one that fit turned out to be a 30mm. But, I've read that a 29mm is what was standard on Festivas. And, the 30mm DOES seem a good bit loose on the nut that's on it. Is there a chance that they gave me the wrong half shaft or are the after market nuts simply a different size?

Second, whoever serviced the brakes (or whatever was done) last before I had the car really did a number on the nut when they staked it. In the process, they made it nearly impossible to get even the smallest chisel under it to lift it up. And, unfortunately, I'm afraid I simply made it worse by trying. Any ideas or tips on getting the thing off w/o (whether cutting it off, etc) damaging the other components of the hub? Since I'm changing out the half shaft anyway I'm not overly concerned about damaging the shaft itself (although I'm not sure what effect, if any, that'll have on my core charge refund) but I'd prefer not to have to start replacing hub parts if necessary.

TIA


TJ

[CryptokiD]

remove the chisled area with a cut off wheel.

[B6T]

Or just get a big ass wrench and remove the nut like your normally would.

[oxbrain]

When I went into the parts store to get an axle socket the guy tried selling me a 30mm. Most stores around here don't even carry the 29, but it does fit the best for the stock nut.

My axle nuts were just like what you are saying where I couldn't get anything in there to pry it loose. I just put the ebrake on and had a friend stand on the brakes and it came loose. I just used a breaker bar but a cheater pipe would have made it easier.

a dremel with a grinding bit could probably just grind out the stakes. If you're replacing the halfshaft and nut anyway then why not?

[jeffdjeffd]

Just use an impact wrench.

[ChrisDrives121DA]

The axle nut can be a real pita.

First, use a good rust-agent ASAP. The faster you soak the nut the more time the agent can work on the rust between the nut/washer/ hub.

Drill a small hole to split the area where the nut has been chiseled, you don´t want to use the nut again, I suppose.

Using the correct socket you should apply at least a 1meter tube extension to your (quality) ratchet (I use my rear shock tower bar square tube for this job) to get the nut loose.

Ask someone to step on the brake while you crank the nut.

Before reassembly take the time and retread the half shaft if necessary and remove any corrosion where nut, washer and hub have contact. copper paste is a prophylaxis to make the whole process easier next time.

tighten the axle nut with proper torque and secure it with a punch then.

-Chris-

[Gro Harlem]

it shouldn't matter how close the stake is to the axle...if you have the proper punchs/stakes to unstake the nut you should have zero problem.

but loosening is another issue. if it doesn't come loose with a 4 foot breaker bar and you don't have air-tools, take it to a mechanic b/c you'll never get it off.

I bought air-tools specifically to be able to remove axle nuts. I even bought a 800 ft lb impact gun after realizing the pos 300 ft lb one the compressor kit came with was useless

[FRANTIK]

may sound dumb, but dont you have to loosen it turning the nut to the right on one of the sides? Thats how my dads subi was but I cant figure out which way it goes on this damn thing, pls let me know, thanks. hurry Im getting sick of trying to get them off.

[gdawgs]

It's been a while since I've had mine off, but I'm pretty sure that both sides are standard threaded(not reversed on one side). However, I just tightened up the rear bearing on the passenger side last night, and that one IS reversed, so maybe the front one is as well.

I have never pryed up the staked area. I just use my 3/4" drive socket set and they always come, although sometimes it takes a little persuasion. I always have someone hold down the brakes. Sometimes I have had to stand on the ratchet and jump on it a little bit to get them to go. My ratchet is probably 2.5 feet long.

[hellraiser6919]

i just removed mine yesterday and the threads are not reversed, the passenger side was a bitch, i used a 5 foot cheater bar and it didnt want to come and im a strong person then i started to jerk it back and forth and it broke loose.

[worfdog]

i have always just used a 1 1/8 inch socket on my festivas and other peoples also.it fits perfect

[Safety Guy]

I think my socket I use is also english sized like Worf's. It works well. One and one/eighth sounds correct, and I've never had it slip or deform a nut. Seems like it was made for it.

Threads are reversed only on the right rear Festy axle. Not the front.

Cheater bars are a good thing to have handy. When I did my '89L, I had to use an antenna pipe about ten feet long!

For my '93GL, I only needed a three foot cheater bar for my breaker bar.

I also had a lot of trouble with my right side wheel nut. Someone had really staked that sucker in. I couldn't get it unstaked and I had mutilated it pretty well, so I used a small drill bit to drill some of it out of the notch area before I used the wrench.

Good luck!

Karl

[FB71]

1 1/8" = 1.125" x 25.4 = 28.575mm

very close to 29mm (whick is correct, by the way)