Anyone Know of a Good Engine Removal Tutorial?

[Boba Debt]

I might be pulling my engine out to have it re-built and wanted to know if anyone knows of a good on-line tutorial?

[Perle]

http://projectmazda.com/festiva/b6/index.htm

[Boba Debt]

I hate to sound dumb but do I have a "b-3" engine?

[aithanmier]

well if it's a stock festiva ya do. just be sure to not lose any bolts and you should be allright. it's an easy engine to pull.

[Boba Debt]

Thanks.

I might post and updated tutorial with photos and more specifics

[Pgh5spd]

Do you live in the rustbelt? Have you ever had the front suspension apart, or at least pulled the calipers to do the brakes? If yes and no, respectively, you'll be attacking things that may give you fits, but without mentioning that aspect, a few things you will encounter are getting the battery box out - the bottom bolt into the sub-frame only needs to be loosened. The box itself has a slot for that one. Also, the shifter is connected by a thru-bolt with a nut on the other end. In other words, you'll need to get hold of the nut end too. It's not easy to reach up there, and if you assume the bolt goes into a threaded end or welded nut, you'll waste a lot of time.

Once you get the radiator out, shoot/spray a lot of WD-40 into the hole in the radiator support, trying to get it in the direction of the two bolts that hold the crossmember in place, and try to do that a day before trying to unbolt the crossmember.

And of course, take notes as you go along/label things.

[Boba Debt]

Thanks for the info, why would I need to disconnect the shifter?

I don't plan on removing the transmission.

[Pgh5spd]

Engine-only removal

In short, you can remove the transmission without removing the engine, but you can't remove the engine while leaving the trans in place. You might be able to do it just to prove it could be done, but you'd have to go to great contortions and still would have to disconnect the same things. Why? There's not enough room to move the motor to the right to get it free of the trans input shaft.

A Haynes Festiva/Aspire manual will be invaluable for you. Many appear on eBay, and Pep Boys still carries them last I saw.

But are you sure this motor is burning oil and not just leaking/slinging most of it, and sucking the rest past the valve seals? If it still runs out nicely as you say it does, and has good compression, try changing the valve seals. That can be done without removing the engine. Ditto front and rear seals, altho for the rear you'll have to pull the trans.

John

[Boba Debt]

I have removed everything and I am ready to pull the engine but I would like to try to do it with out pulling the transmission



How long is the transmission input shaft?


If I have to pull the whole thing what's the deal with the back transmission mount?



Thanks for all the help so far.

[Festiva_newbie]

Everytime I had a different car, first step was to go to Canadian Tire, dish out $20can for the Haynes book. It's helped me out in situations I was expecting and the ones where you're on the side of the road saying "What the hell is going on..."

It's a good investment. Especially if you're not too familiar with the car. One mistake can cost you well over the $20 it cost for the book.

[Boba Debt]

I have the Hanes manual and a Mitchell Repair CD-ROM

Both suck.

Basically there is nothing in these products I couldn't figure out for myself


Example, under the engine removal section of the Mitchell program it starts by saying:

"Remove battery and battery tray"

This is what I wrote down and it was a simple part

REMOVAL:

Mark + and - terminal of the battery
Loosen both 10mm terminal nuts
Remove budgie cord
Remove the terminals
Lift battery out of tray & set it aside
Remove both 10mm bolts from the battery tray
Remove the tray
Reinstall both 10mm bolts so that they do not get lost

[Pgh5spd]

I expect I won't be the only one who'll be interested to hear how you make out.

[Boba Debt]

I decided to remove the engine and trans together.

I'm glad someone pointed me to the B6 swap article, it had a lot of good info.

I was pretty much doing what it said but it was reassuring to see someone who had experience confirm my work



I have everything ready to go and should have an engine hoist and engine stand some time this week.

I expect I won't be the only one who'll be interested to hear how you make out.

[FRANTIK]

Re: Engine-only removal

In short, you can remove the transmission without removing the engine, but you can't remove the engine while leaving the trans in place. You might be able to do it just to prove it could be done, but you'd have to go to great contortions and still would have to disconnect the same things. Why? There's not enough room to move the motor to the right to get it free of the trans input shaft.

A Haynes Festiva/Aspire manual will be invaluable for you. Many appear on eBay, and Pep Boys still carries them last I saw.

But are you sure this motor is burning oil and not just leaking/slinging most of it, and sucking the rest past the valve seals? If it still runs out nicely as you say it does, and has good compression, try changing the valve seals. That can be done without removing the engine. Ditto front and rear seals, altho for the rear you'll have to pull the trans.

John

have you ever tried it this way before? I meen pullling the engine without the tranny?

[FRANTIK]

Thats weird, I just did it for like the 6th time today. with ease.