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  • battery fuse keeps blowing

    So a friend of mine took his festiva to a honda dealership to see if they could surface the rotors while on the car. After they said no and he came to pick it up he drove it up the street to autozone. His car would not start after coming out of autozone and it turns out it is the fuse by the battery there. we put a new fuse in and it started but then blew again. Another part of the story is the mechanic at the honda place who was just supposed to be looking at the brakes said to my friend that he left his parking lights on and also needs a new battery. So does anyone know what the heck has happened here and why the battery fuse would keep blowing. It seems to me the the honda tech did something evil.
    jdm impreza wrx
    1990 LX 5spd

  • #2
    He should bring it back to the Honda Dealership, what ever they did to it, they are liable for the problem. They were poking around by the battery (obviously) so they must have caused the problem. Check with the dealership.
    "If you're not first you're last!" -Ricky Bobby

    -91L "Oliver" Now B6DE swapped with an ATX Capri ECU on a MTX!!!!
    The little Festy that could...and did!
    (Gone on to a new life)
    -90 Ford Bronco II Eddie Bauer

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    • #3
      How did the tech determine the battery was bad?
      What fuse (link) did you change? Key to your post....the car was running but did not restart....was it blown prior to the restart or did it blow during the restart....then started and blew again...a few more deatils may help.

      Resurfacing rotors....I'm not a big fan of doing this...once the rotor has been cut...it can absorb less heat and is more prone to warping and glazing. Pads glaze as much as rotors do...the trick is to change pads before glazing sets in. If pads are changed at the proper frequency...rotors should not require cutting. And even after a long period of time just change the rotor. If you have cut the rotor now...they are destined to be replaced shortly. Many brake shops love to cut rotors and warranty the pads....next time thru you pay for new rotors becuase previously they cut to or near minimum.

      On most cars, Festy's excluded, the rotor changes out in 30 seconds once the caliper has been lifted. Amazing, the shop that unnecessarily cut the rotor, has the caliper off to change the pads and charges an additional $100 for a $20 Chinese rotor.

      If your friend wants to break the glaze on the Festy rotor...take a pad sander to the surface....should take no more than 10 minuted per surface...be sure to cover the spindle nut and to wear a respirator.
      Joe Lutz

      The SKATE ..... 1992L 5spd
      The Greatest Purchase I Ever Made

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      • #4
        I am a fanatic about my festy pads, I always have a spare set in the car, and will literally pull over and swap pads as SOON as I hear a warning tab. I do this because I never want to deal with those bearings. Over 500k, and what do you know, the original rotors.....but they are pushing the service limit now, and I guess I am going to deal with the bearings this summer......
        Contact me for information about Festiva Madness!
        Remember, FestYboy is inflatable , and Scitzz means crazy, YO!
        "Like I'm going to suggest we do the job right." ~Fecomatter May 28 2016.

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        • #5
          The fuse blows basically everytime it starts so it starts with a new fuse but then it blows right away.
          jdm impreza wrx
          1990 LX 5spd

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          • #6
            so something in the starter is drawing to much amps & causing it to blow, the starter could be on its way out, check the wirring on starter make sure its not cut and grounding out on something

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            • #7
              If it's the starter....connect a remote starting switch to the solenoid coil and see what happens. If the problem lies in the solenoid or starter...it won't take but a few cycles to see the problem.

              Just a guess....If it is the starter why does it not blow on starting but rather after the car has been started...at this time the starter load is has been shed. I'm thinking, maybe something internasl to the fuel pump relay, if it's and EFI, After the car has started, the VAF energizes the second coil inside the relay. Maybe a direct short to ground in the relay is the problem...just a thought.

              Anyone...some help please....I'm whithout my schematics....can the fuel pump bypass jumper be installed to energize the pump with the relay removed? If so...i0t would be a neat experiment...start the car to see if it starts, dies out and most importantly...does not blow the fuse. What do you think....or should i go back to my homework?!?!
              Joe Lutz

              The SKATE ..... 1992L 5spd
              The Greatest Purchase I Ever Made

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              • #8
                check the battery wire going to the alternator
                it runs under the intake on two easily bendable clips, above the oil filter
                then across the trans to the fusible link box

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