head questions!

[mullet man]

so i did a compression test on my carbed '89 L. the cylinder closest to the drivers side was at 60psi, 2nd 115psi, 3rd 205, 4th 210. so i pulled the head hoping it to be a head gasket failure. well it turns out that i have 2 badly burnt exhaust valves, i mean like missing pieces of valve LOL. its a wonder she was still going only on those 2 cylinders

anyway, there are a few things i need to know for this repair project.
1. what is the firing order for a factory carbed 1.3L?
2. on EBAY there are remanufactured and 100% assembled heads for $165. problem is it says will not work with carbed models, anyone know why this might be?
3. what vacuum hoses can i get rid of without causing issues? (holy crap i have never seen so many before, looks like a bowl of spaghetti). i have no emissions testing in my area.

buying the redone head will save me alot of headache because of the time i dont have to get to a machine shop to drop mine off and pick it up.

[25Horseplay]

1. firing order 1 3 4 2

2.Carbed heads have the fuel pump attached to head. And carbed heads have solid cam followers.

3. I don't know if I would eliminate any of the vacuum lines, the carb is a feedback carb and may not run good/right if you eliminate any lines.

[25Horseplay]

I would post a want ad for a carbed head in the FS forum. Or have your head redone at a machine shop.

[mullet man]

thank you for the quick reply.
the firing order, is that from inside the car or looking at it from the front?

also, this is a different auction but it shows this head for '89-'93 1.3 models. but it shows the head having the provision for the mechanical fuel pump
this EBAY link

also guys swapping to EFI, do they just leave the mechanical fuel pump in place, unused?

[25Horseplay]

Number 1 is located on the pass side. If you buy that head it is just a bare head. It will need all the valve train it doesn't look like it comes with it.

[mullet man]

right, that wasnt the 100% assembled head i was speaking of.
only reason to show that one was festys went 100% EFI in '90 if i am not mistaken but the pic shows the fuel pump provision on that head, but the description lists up to '93 (EFI).


this is the other one....
assembled head says wont work with carbed models

EDIT: unless i am mistaking that hole with the 2 bolt holes for something else.
come to see it, the 2nd link shows the same hole as well

[25Horseplay]

The first one has a 89 part number, so that may be why it has a spot for the fuel pump. You might be able to use the second one, but may have to install an electric fuel pump. I am not 100% sure though.

[mullet man]

http://i26.tinypic.com/2vlwe4y.jpg

there is a pic of my '89 carbed head, it looks just like the unassembled/bare EBAY head above.
i do see minor differences between it and the assembled head tho, like it has 3 small passages next to the intake runners, where the EBAY assembled head has only 2. the ebay head also has some small grooves/indentations in all the intake runners where mine and the unassembled head have none of these. but they all have the fuel pump location on them!

here are a couple pics of the bad exhaust valves on #4 and #2 cylinders....
http://i30.tinypic.com/15x5vdf.jpg (#2, ~60psi))
http://i29.tinypic.com/2ztaz5e.jpg (#4, ~115psi)
http://i29.tinypic.com/2lyzhl.jpg (all)

[Festy46]

The third hole on the carbed head is for the EGR valve on the intake. If you don't have to worry about smog tests, then the head with only 2 holes will work. I have a rebuilt head with the 3 holes that I bought on eBay from Jackson Cylinder Head Service. It was supposed to be a B6 head, but when I received it, I found it was a B3. I kept it, but I didn't use it. It had mechanical valve adjusters and a cam that I removed. (mechanical adjusters are hard to come by) I would sell the rebuilt head with valves for $100.00 including shipping.

As far as removing the vacuum lines. You can remove them all but it won't idle much below 1500 rpms without stalling. It has a computer controlled idle circuit that won't work with all the lines removed. The motor has to run about 1500 so it can pull gas directly from the main carb jet or it will stall. We use them for racing this way since we don't need the really slow idle speed. What we have found that works better, is to take your intake to a welding shop and have them build up the width of the carb base and then machine and re-drill the holes to fit an '82 to '85 1.6L Ford Escort carb. These carbs are basically the same as a Weber but a lot less money. I've picked up rebuilt ones on eBay for $20.00. You could also use an adapter plate for the carb if you could find one. Your gas mileage may be less with the other carb, but that isn't a factor for us.

[mullet man]

Festy46, PM sent! please call or message me back!

how difficult is it to remove the EGR?
will this year Festy throw an SES, or just trip a code in the computer?

[mullet man]

BIG THANKS to Festy46 for coming thru for me in a time of need!! he saved me alot of time, money and hassle!
i got the head all buttoned up on the car, knocked the timing out and she fired right up!!

all i need to do is handle the exhaust leak and do some brake work on her, and she'll be a running little beast!!

[Levitan]

Congrats, MM!!

Way to pull thru for a bro, Festy46!!

[packrat427]

That is AWESOME Mullet Man , glad to know it is back in action