I replaced my distributor because the ICM was no good. After doing so my car runs rough. It will be running ok then the rpms will just drop 500-1000 and jump back to normal causing the car jerk. This happens at all speeds whether just idling or cruising at 55 mph. Also is hard to start sometimes. Any body got any ideas what to check out?
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Timing set right? How's the cap and rotor? Check the wires and plugs. All these could have an affect. Was the car sitting for a long time?
Please post what kind of car this is. I'll assume a Festiva but is it carbed or fuel injected?
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Sorry for not stating the important details. It is a 88 lx carbed festy. Tune up was done abut 1500 miles before replacing the distributor. Timing seems to be good, however I cannot rotate the distibutor any farther it is as far as it will allow. I will try and find a light to put on it but if I turn it the other way it dont start well at all.1988 p.o.s. (228,000 and still going)
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did you put it back in right? shaft rotated to differant position before replacement? Rotor pack on in the right position?"FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
89L Silver EFI auto
91GL Green Auto DD
There ain't no rest for the wicked
until we close our eyes for good.
I will sleep when I die!
I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!
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Sounds like bad dist cap/rotor or combination of....or....are ignition wires mixed up....or...is it possible the the dist internals are from another model that is not compatible?Joe Lutz
The SKATE ..... 1992L 5spd
The Greatest Purchase I Ever Made
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I'll check the cap and rotor,but there only a couple months old. What is the firing order I cant find my haynes since I moved, also number 1 is passenger side plug or the one closest to distributor? I really hope it aint the distributr again since I bught it from rockauto and it nly came with a 30 day waranty.1988 p.o.s. (228,000 and still going)
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1-3-4-2
Plug 1 is at approximately 7 oclock on distibutor.Search Master - Honorary Member of Midwest Festiva Inc., Gulf Coast Chapter
Everyone is entitled to be stupid, but some abuse the privilege.
- Unknown
I don't like superstitious people. They're bad luck. - Serge A. Storms
If at first you don't succeed, failure may be your style.
- Quentin Crisp
God, please save me from your followers!
- Bumper Sticker
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Correct
I take it back about number 1 position. It is at approximately 11 oclock. I just noticed what the manual is saying about where it is in relationship to the front of engine. SorryLast edited by MONSOON; 07-05-2008, 06:25 PM.Search Master - Honorary Member of Midwest Festiva Inc., Gulf Coast Chapter
Everyone is entitled to be stupid, but some abuse the privilege.
- Unknown
I don't like superstitious people. They're bad luck. - Serge A. Storms
If at first you don't succeed, failure may be your style.
- Quentin Crisp
God, please save me from your followers!
- Bumper Sticker
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same problem
i had exsatly the same problem with my pride i replaced the rotor arm dizzy cap leads and plugs and it still ran rought so i was looking at the engine and found the advance and retard unit has a vacume pipe on it and it had split and fell off i put that back on and it runs 100 times better but with the ocasonall missfire in 5th and tick over so i would look at that pipe if i was you just a suggestion.
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Alright heres the latest, I let the car sit for a couple days then drove it this morning. It ran like a champ for about 15 miles at 60 mph, when I slowed down for town it started acting up again. Seems as if when warm it is more of a problem. If I kept the rpms above 2000 and kept it under load it didnt seem to drop out as much.When the ICM went out it was the same thing worked good cold then when warm car would die. It would just die instantly then though. Now the rpms just drop 500 or so instantly then right back to normal.I am hoping to keep this thing running as you all know the gas milage cant be beat for a work beater.1988 p.o.s. (228,000 and still going)
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I believe it was jglutz that had suggested using starter fluid and spraying around hoses. When the idle increased you found you leak. If he hasnt confirmed it. Ill see if I can find that post.
I was wrong. This is what he posted.
Quote jglutz
"Finding a vacuum leak that is external to the engine
Take a propane torch (Benzo-Matic) and turn it on....do not light it.
Run the torch along all of the hoses....connections....and gasket surfaces.
If the idle changes....you located the vacuum leak.
Low vacuum readings and not a tremendous difference in driving....engine power....would most likely be a valve problem.
Also...don't trust your vacuum gage...may be it has a leak or just is not very accurate."
Glad I looked. Although the starter fluid trick might work(someone may confirm this). I didnt want to say thats what he said when it wasnt.Last edited by MONSOON; 07-06-2008, 09:02 PM.Search Master - Honorary Member of Midwest Festiva Inc., Gulf Coast Chapter
Everyone is entitled to be stupid, but some abuse the privilege.
- Unknown
I don't like superstitious people. They're bad luck. - Serge A. Storms
If at first you don't succeed, failure may be your style.
- Quentin Crisp
God, please save me from your followers!
- Bumper Sticker
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