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  • #16
    Originally posted by boostmaster View Post
    I checked out rockauto but the front rotors they sell look like the new ones in my pics and not like the ones currently on the car. I got my new ones for $17.00 a piece so they're a good deal but not what I need for the car as far as I can tell.
    Other than the rotor where the pads rub being thicker than your old ones, they look right to me. When you remove the 4-spoke lug bolt hub from the old rotor, I think you will then see that the new one does look like the old one.
    You gonna race that thing?
    http://www.sdfcomputers.com/Festivaracing.htm

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    • #17
      Did you see the centers? Old ones are small and new ones are larger in diameter(In the center hole)...

      Also look at the pic where the bolt part is about 2" away from the actual rotor (the original)

      The new one has the bolt holes attached.. Will this not be an issue?
      88 LX - Twin turbo, Intercooled :p
      Recently re-chistened from "Cheapstiva" to "Expenstiva"

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      • #18
        www.festivamotorsport.com should have new rotors/drums pads/shoes

        1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
        1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
        2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor

        1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)

        If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?

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        • #19
          Dude those are the correct rotors. The part you are talking about on the old ones with the bolt holes is the hub. You have to take the old rotor/hub off the car with a slide hammer or similar method and then the rotor unbolts from the hub from the back. Bolt the new rotor onto the hub and there you go.

          Screwy, I know.
          91GL BP/F3A with boost
          13.79 @ 100, 2.2 60' on 8 psi and 155R12's

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          • #20
            I have MUCH worse backing plates front and back than that on some of my cars. I would be concerned if I were you only to free up the slide pins on the calipers, install new pads on the front, replace if needed as you say the drums (Beck/Arnley PN 083-2251) Bearings(Timken Set 1 and set 4) Master Cylinder( Beck Arnley 072-8485, or Raybestos )etc. Rock Auto is a very good source for parts that do not require a core return especially. If you use the code 1111741881690 in the "how did you hear about us" box of the checkout, you get an extra 5% off until Sept 2nd with that particular code. This has usually helped or paid shipping on my orders. They send you another code after you order from them too. Local Mc Parts houses have spotty to fair parts choices, but I have found brake pads, half shafts etc that would have been too much hassle to ship makes them be the correct choice here. Take a look at my backing plates....What backing plate.....They have been gone for 4 yrs now on Shtinky, my winter car. Take my word for it, these are tough cars that operate under less than ideal circumstances. Make sure the pins float FREELY or replace the caliper, and set some new pads on the front, make sure the adjuster is free in the rear so you have a parking brake thaat works, and REPLACE THE REAR BEARINGS! The rest, if the hard lines are good on the front where they pass through the strut tower, is up to your judgement. Now would be the time to invest in a Ford factory manual too. It, and the EVTM are going to save a great deal of aggrevation.
            JMO

            Michael
            Have owned 9 so far
            White 89 L converted to LX "The Curmudgeon" Being a Curmudgeon right now.
            Blue 89 L converted to LX "Shtinky" FMS crate engine,cam,flywheel,hail dents
            Smurf Blue 90 LX "Smurffy" He Ran Away From Home!!!!!! Says Willie loves him more than I did!
            Red 88 L converted to LX "Rasta, Mon" Now retired
            Where did all these @#*&%$ Toyotas come from around here?

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            • #21
              I am sorry but with all the work your looking at. A Aspire swap should be cheaper if you can find a good 2 door parts cars to pull it from.

              David

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              • #22
                Originally posted by boostmaster View Post
                Did you see the centers? Old ones are small and new ones are larger in diameter(In the center hole)...

                Also look at the pic where the bolt part is about 2" away from the actual rotor (the original)

                The new one has the bolt holes attached.. Will this not be an issue?
                Look at the 2 pictures of yours and do the measurement I have marked. What you see on the old hub where you are to measure is the ends of the bolts that go through the rotor and into the hub. I think you will find that the bolt center to centers in the old hub and the holes in the new rotor center to center are the same. The rotor is not just the part the brake pads rub against, but the step down part and the part with the 4 holes in it.
                You gonna race that thing?
                http://www.sdfcomputers.com/Festivaracing.htm

                Comment


                • #23
                  Now you tell me!:p

                  I finally broke down and went to the ford dealer this afternoon and discovered from their exploded diagram that this was a 2-piece unit. I also discovered dust shields are "obsolete" as are the backing plates for the rear drums. Here's a few pics for your enjoyment...







                  88 LX - Twin turbo, Intercooled :p
                  Recently re-chistened from "Cheapstiva" to "Expenstiva"

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                  • #24
                    Here's a few more of the other surprises...








                    Anyone have aftermarket part numbers for these replacement bushings?
                    88 LX - Twin turbo, Intercooled :p
                    Recently re-chistened from "Cheapstiva" to "Expenstiva"

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Rockauto has those bushings. You could try Roger at Festiva Motorsports for your backing plates. He has a lot of stuff that you can't get from the Ford Garage. I can't guarantee that he has any, but that's your best shot other than going with used parts.
                      You gonna race that thing?
                      http://www.sdfcomputers.com/Festivaracing.htm

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Is there a preferred brand and or part #?
                        88 LX - Twin turbo, Intercooled :p
                        Recently re-chistened from "Cheapstiva" to "Expenstiva"

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