I dont think its getting gas. plugs are dry and nothing smells like gas. wont give me a bark or anything. Got a little sputter with a shot of ether. pulled the line off after the fuel filter... there is gas. the intake ducting isnt put together.. but i dont see how that would affect it. B6 injectors on festy harness. just had to splice the IAC connector. B61K ecu
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B6 swap. no gas
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i was half asleep trying to fall asleep so i can get some rest before i have to leave for work in 4 hrs... and it hit me... i was 99% sure i had the fuel lines hooked up right but.... which way do they go? on the rail there are 2 lines. one goes into the rail and the other goes into the reg then to to the rail. i have the supply hooked up to the regulator... is this right? my reasoning was that the gas goes to the reg first to regulate the pressure... or is it that the regulator is the return side and bleeds off the pressure? maybe my problem isnt that big after-all... yes/no?89SX funtop! Fully loaded!
RIP 90LX
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yup, your fuel lines are bass-ackwards. Supply goes directly to the rail, return goes to the regulator. Regulator bleeds off extra pressure after the injectors.Jim DeAngelis
kittens give Morbo gas!!
Bright Blue 93 GL (1.6 8v, 5spd) (Hula-Baloo)
Performance Red 94 Aspire SE (Stimpson)
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Thanks, you guys were right! Only problem... still no go. Im getting some sputtering/chugging/backfireing when I crank but it wont fire up. I thought maybe I got the dist rotor in wrong... but I checked and it seems it can only go in one way. Im pretty sure I've got the plug wires in the right order... But the Haynes isn't that clear, 10 o'clock #1, 7 o'clock #2, 4 o'clock #3 exct.
Man.. sorry how incomprehensible my previous posts were... I had been awake for 20hrs on 4 hrs of sleep... same thing sofar today..89SX funtop! Fully loaded!
RIP 90LX
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If you have a VAF...connect the inlet air ducts. Not sure if the paddle signal is required to start but it is need to run....Also after starting the VAF latches the fuel pump circuit on.
Find the test connector for the fuel pump and forsce the pump on....listen....if on...remove the jumper....and prep to test again to see if fuel comes out of the reg side of the rail.
Crank the engine and check for spark some where in the circuit....rotor installed?
Remember most ECU's require Crank/Cam Pos'n Sensor signal to create spark.Joe Lutz
The SKATE ..... 1992L 5spd
The Greatest Purchase I Ever Made
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Doh... firing order is 1342... not 1234! And thats 1342 CCW! Not CW.... (But it will run that way.... lol)
So I had it running... I went for a drive... It was OK for abit, but then when I was coasting it stalled... it restarted but now my headlights wont work. And it wont idle now... If I keep going it will stay running but if I get out of the gas it dies. No idea why the headlights quit?! Fuse links are fine.
My VAF... I dont have it completely level... could that be the problem? Altho I've seen plenty of people with there VAF installed funny. Also.. I made a VAF harness 'extension' with a pair of male/female plugs from the J/Y. Thing is... one of the wires in the factory harness has shielding on it... but my new extension dosent... could that be the problem? (Again, I got this idea here, so I thought it would work)
Once its running where should I set the timing... i've read everything from 6-10.
And for seating the rings... the haynes say to accel from 30 to 50mph then decel with it in gear? Do I do the whole 30-50 in one gear? which gear? 4th is kinda low at 30 (1700ish) But i think 3rd would be kinda high at 50... (Do I really want to rev my rebuilt motor that high?)
Aside from all these gremlins the motor purrs nice!Last edited by stefan; 07-16-2008, 11:21 PM.89SX funtop! Fully loaded!
RIP 90LX
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Your getting feedback through your non shielded wire. Hit up a junk yard and look for a later model car with a dristributorless ignition system and pull the length you need. Strip back the shielding and butt connect both ends. Should solve your stalling problem. About seating the rings; what i did was take it out for a drive keep it in third and do the 30-50 thing. I made 2 quater mile passes on my motor and then ran it normal under 65-70 mph for 500 miles. After that i drove it 1700 to missouri with no issues. I had a coolant leak but it was from an inlet tube from the radiator.---------------------------------------------------
The Jester - Midwest Festiva Inc., Missouri Chapter
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BUILD'EM CHEAP, RUN'EM HARD, REPAIR'EM DAILY!
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don't feel bad about the fuel lines, i did the same thing too... took me almost an hour to figure it out, lol.
I had problems with my VAF mounted sideways... and so have other people. its best to keep it flat if you can, though it seems like if you keep it flat from side to side and just tip the front (airfilter) end of it down it doesn't mind too much.
when i broke my engine in i left it in 4th i think, and accelerated 35-65 and back down (leave it in gear)... the exact numbers aren't a big deal, the idea is to get vacuum in the combustion chamber to "suck" the rings out and into the wall causing them to seat.~Nate
the keeper of a wonderful lil car, Skeeter.
Current cars:
91L "Skeeter" 170k, Aspire brakes, G15, BP, Advancedynamics coil overs, etc. My first love.
1990 Kawasaki Ninja 250 - my gas saver, 60+mpg - 40k
2004 MotoGuzzi Breva - my "longer range" bike - 17k
FOTY 2008 winner!
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I found the stalling problem... At the moment i've thrown together a redneck intake with some pipe and tape to get by till' I can make it to the JY... One of my tape joints opened up... I fixed it and its good. Which I find very weird cause my 1.3 would run and idle w/o the VAF... never mind a hole between the VAF and the TB89SX funtop! Fully loaded!
RIP 90LX
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