I broke my clutch switch

[Handyman]

I just bought my first Festiva. The clutch felt mushy and the Haynes said the pedal should around 8"from floor before you set freeplay. Mine was 7.25. I reached blindly for the switch and found it right where Haynes said it was. I didn't look at the picture closely enough at first and found the lock nut in the exact position of the picture. Haynes picture doesn't give year of vehicle in photo. Anyway, I couldn't get the switch loose and after much effort, I heard the tiniest little snap sound. The next time I depressed the clutch, The switches plunger hit me in the eye. One, Am I an idiot for not getting it loose?(Don't answer that) and Two, How do I get it out and where do I get another one. Please don"t say JY, I'd much rather dig one out of a little box or bag.

[GenevaDirt]

If you are talking about the nuetral safety switch ( I think that is what it is called ) that is actuated when you press in the clutch to start the car....you do not need it, other then it is a safety feature ....I disconnected one of them on my one Festy. Got tired of having to step on the clutch one winter to start and warm it up and just never reconnected it.
But I would imagine you can pick one up at just about any auto parts store.

[Handyman]

NO, its the one the clutch pedal upper arm rests against when the clutch is engaged(up position) I'm supposed to spin it to set pedal height.

[worfdog]

it is called a clutch engagement switch. i checked, auto zone, advance auto and o'reielys auto parts online and none of them had a listing for it.
i have found, by experience that the only thing it does, is when i don't compleatly remove my foot from the clutch,shifting to second gear, the car will lurch several times unless i mash the gas pedal about half way or floor it.
looks like it might be a junk yard part, but you might want to check napa, ford are maybe a mazda dealership.

[Handyman]

Well I got no lurching but it still won't keep running. Starts fine ,idles now that I was directed to that white knob on linkage, but driving if I come off throttle it just dies out. By the way I pulled the drivers seat and climbed under the dash. Found where I had hold of the wrong nut ant twisted the heck out of the bracket holding that switch and brake light switch,twisting it away from brake pedal and leaving brake lights on. I did finally set clutch to Haynes specs. Still feels funny. My check engine light works on start up so I think it is only carb trouble and not emissions.

[worfdog]

you need to post a little info about your car. what year, i guess it's a 88 or 89 manual trans because you mentioned a carburetor, and what you have done to it so far, and we all can help you diagnose your problem.

[Handyman]

Yes its 1988 with 1993 interior. I replaced plugs,wires,cap,button,air filter. I have been reading my Haynes and found just how important that little switch is.I'm going out tomorrow to find one or repair this one. I just broke the little plunger off this one so I may try to drill down in the plastic and insert a roll pin to replace the plunger. I've done stranger things. I've had a lot of experience fixing broke stuff with whats available at Ace. The car used to be a parts car of previous owner. His 93 blew up so he put this one on the road after sitting a long time. His wife didn't like driving a stick so he unloaded it onto me. 131, miles. AC but doesn't work. Butchered wiring harness at radio. Broke windshield. After I replace/repair this switch I plan on checking all the other crap that works with that little switch. This car continues to remind me why I stopped working on cars back when emissions started.

[jglutz]

NAPA has the switch.....http://tinyurl.com/6m58lc

[Handyman]

I fixed it . Now I just have to reinstall it.
I used a drill bit to measure the depth of hole to insert 3/32 spring pin to have proper length remaining.

[worfdog]

that's great, american ingenuity triumps again.