I've got the trans out. What else should I check while its out?

[mechanicguy]

Hello all,
It has been along time since posting. I'm swapping my old 5 speed for a newer 5 speed. I already have changed the clutch and all the other goodies that go with the clutch kit. My question is what else should I check or service since I already have the trans out? It wasn't that bad taking it out but since it's out I figured I should see if there is any common things to check. Your wisdom is greatly appreciated.

Thank you,
Denny

[b3 madness]

Since you have it out already, I would replace the oil seals for the axles.

[wrestler3025]

You just beat me to it b3! I would definately do the oil seals while you have it out, and look at the washers/bushings in the shifter linkage where it connects to the tranny in both spots. If you have excessive play in them, you can replace them with neoprene washers and it will tighten up your shifter considerably.

[Icedawg]

Consider the rear main engine seal too. If it starts to leak you will need to do all of this removal over again. Be sure to get the flywheel machined for the new clutch. I assume you have a new throughout bearing, as it usually comes with the clutch.

[mechanicguy]

I've got a new throw out bearing but I don't see any grooves in the flywheel. Should I still get it resurfaced?

Thanks,
Denny

[m715]

While it is out of the way, I would look at the front brake hard lines, and replace them if needed. The drivers side usually get rusted where it passes through to the fender well, and you have lots of room to do it right now. Also would look at the rack boots, and inner tie rods.

Michael

[Ogrestiva]

while you have it up...have you looked into an aspire swap?

[JPT]

What method did you use to get the axles out?

[jglutz]

While the tranny is out. I would take the throw-out bearing fork off....pull the pivot shaft...clean the shaft with some steel wool or scotch-brite and reassemble with a light film of hi-temp grease.

Also...on the tranny housing...near the starter or clutch cable bracket is where one of the main engine grounds is attached. I would clean that area up to insure a good ground.

Did your clutch kit come with a pilot bearing? It is a small bronze sleeve that fits into the end of the crankshaft. I always change them when I change the clutch.

Did you examine the flywheel surface. I only re-surface them if they are scored form rivots, deeply discolored or heat checked. If it is just glazed...a quick pass with 80 grit does the job.

[mechanicguy]

Thanks for everybody's help. There was no scoring on the flywheel so I used the sandpaper method. To get the axles out I used a cold chisel and a sledge hammer, then I hit and rotate. It only took two or three GOOD wacks to get them out. I was thinking about an aspire swap only I just put brand new calipers on the car so I'm going to wait. The brake lines were rusted but looks O.k. for now.

How do I know when I need wheel bearings replaced?

Thank you,
Denny

[Icedawg]

How do I know when I need wheel bearings replaced?

Usually you hear them. A low whup whup whup sound, starting only when you corner and growing to all the time as they get worse, or a higher pitched continuous whiny steel sound. Grinding and thumping when you spin them by hand is another sure sign. When they are real bad the hubs move when you grab them and try to twist them. Or you just replace them when you replace the brakes, but in these cars, with the hub design they have, that is not the most obvious time. Hence your question, of course.

[jglutz]

I got 136k/15years on my original factory bearings until they got noisy.

[Pgh5spd]

For what else to do - as long as the trans is out, and particularly since you have the crossmember off, take a good hard look at the brake lines to the rear. They rust out where they pass down inside the crossmember and make the last bend before going straight under the floor. It's a pain, but better to do it now when the area is open vs. later. (Been there!) If you don't have a flaring tool to make your own tubing, beware that you're going to need Japanese style tubing (=metric threads) and that most auto parts stores at least around here do not sell unions - they all want to sell you adapters for using US tubing going into metric ports. I guess you can do it that way, but it is irritating. I had to go to an import parts store to find metric unions (and then of course I finally found my flaring tool!)