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  • Brake help needed

    bout from someone that had it sittin up and now the brakes are sticking any help pls
    TODAYS FESTIVA... TOMMOROWS TRAILER QUEEN

  • #2
    if you give a few more details, someone would be able to provide you with good advice

    1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
    1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
    2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor

    1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)

    If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?

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    • #3
      like when i push the brakes or pull the e brake they act like they dont want to release back into the normal position and they rub
      TODAYS FESTIVA... TOMMOROWS TRAILER QUEEN

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      • #4
        front, rear or both?

        BP Festiva http://www.cardomain.com/ride/723319 - SOLD
        BPT Festiva www.cardomain.com/ride/2260009 - SOLD
        BPT GTX www.cardomain.com/ride/2436495 - SOLD
        New GTX - http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3294846/ - SOLD

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        • #5
          This should be moved to the repair forum.
          sigpic
          The Don - Midwest Festiva Inc., Missouri Chapter

          Link to my festiva pictures below
          https://fordfestiva.com/forums/album.php?albumid=10
          Celebrating 25 years of festiva(s) ownership.

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          • #6
            First thing I do when I buy any car or as protection before winter, is what we used to call a "brake lube" back when I worked at a Toyota dealership. For the fronts, we tore 'em appart, grind the guiding tabs on the brake pads with a wire wheel, clean the tab's channel in the caliper support, and grease it up with copper grease. For the pad guiding pins, remove rust with a wire wheel and also put copper grease. For caliper pins, we'd pull them out, clean them and grind away rust if there would be any, then put silicone grease in the boots and on the pins before putting them back in. We'd also grind the part of the hub that goes through the wheel's center and put copper-based anti-seize, to prevent the wheels from sticking until the next brake job. For the rears, you'd want to take the drums off and remove the big rust by tapping it with a hammer, removing the crust, and then grinding the rest with a wire wheel, BE SURE TO PUT DUST CAPS ON BOTH ENDS OF YOUR DRUM'S BEARING RACES, otherwise you'll get rust chips in the grease. Remove the rear shoes, shoot the backing plate with brake cleaner. Put some copper grease on the contact points (the bumps on the backing plates where the shoes rest on) as well as pivot points. Also take out the parking brake mechanism, which are probably seized, and free them with PB Blaster or any brand you like, and then remove the rust (again with wire wheel, or sandblast if you have access to it) and shoot some copper-based anti-seize on the mechanism's pivot points, and put everything back together. I like to do this before and after every winter, and never been back to see a mechanic about a braking issue ever since, except maybe when I need new rotors since I don't have a press to take the bearings out.
            The left lane? Are you crazy!!! I never drive in the left lane...It's full of freaks driving the wrong way and charging right at you!!!

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            • #7
              Thanks This Has Been A Great Help
              TODAYS FESTIVA... TOMMOROWS TRAILER QUEEN

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