noisy valvtrain after oil change???????????????????????

[bassman]

this is the third oil change for my festiva and like the first two my lifters click loudly after ??
i am using 5w30
they quite down after about 500 miles.
why????
i have used quaker state , penzoil , and some really cheap stuff and all the same??
should i try that 0w30 winter oil??
the first change i used 10 w 30 and thought that was it so i drained it and went to 5 w 30 and still clickin.

shayne

[darkdan]

It's dirt build up or bad seals on the hydraulic lash adjusters.

Mine were noisy during the summer and always during the winter. After auto-rx they were noisy during the winter even using AMSOIL's synthetic 0w30. Finally I gave up, spent $80 and replaced them.

Some like the ATF trick, but it's not super effective. It doesn't have the cleaner power most people believe it does. Those 5 minute flushes are mainly kerosene so I would steer clear of them.

Either switch to synthetic or a diesel rated oil (rotella has a 10w30 now and a 5w40) and wait 10k to 20k miles for them to clean up or try www.auto-rx.com and hope it doesn't happen to the winter. Otherwise, replace them like I did.

[mechanicaldj]

use 10w30 or 10w40, anything lower is just water and will by-pass the seals in the lifter assembly making it click

[darkdan]

Considering the oil at temp is over 10 thinner than a 5w30 at room temp I doubt it's because the oil is watery thin at start up.

Plus, until roughly freezing (and sometimes closer to 0F) 10w and 5w are VERY close in viscosity.

[bassman]

what is the atf trick???
if i just leave them clicking loudly will it break anything???
like i was saying at first after some miles and the oil gets dark it goes away.
but this car means alot to me as i drive it everyday and value its gas savings.
i do have 2 parts cars one with only 60 000 k's so if i blow this one up i have a good donar.

will auto rx fix it ??

shayne

[darkdan]

No promises on auto-rx fixing it. If they're dirty it should. If it's a physically damaged part (o-ring is worn, etc) then it won't. I posted my personal experience with it.

The clicking won't harm anything, but it gets annoying. The valves might flop around a little more then they should at start up so no redline shifts until they quiet down.

If nothing else, auto-rx will clean your ring packs for improved compression.

On my crown vic I'm now averaging about 1.5 mpg better than previously. My record high mileage was 21.5 mpg, but after auto-rx I had 23.1, 23.5, and 23.6 mpg. Previous average was about 18 and now I average high 19s.

No I don't sell the stuff. No you can't get it in any auto parts store. But the stuff works. Here's an independent test done by a skeptic:

http://rms13.com/

[bassman]

i put in a can of cheap valve stuff from a gasstation and they are quiet.
why????
what it says it does is free sticky lifters but like most $4 cans o crap it just makes stuff worse in the long run.
the auto rx thing is my next order as soon as i can afford it .
so what is sticky valve lifter repair in a can??
i think it is depleted uranium and i will soon die from exposure.

what you guys think??

[darkdan]

If it was thin then most likely a solvent like kerosene, or stoddard solvent.

If it was thick then it's most likely nothing more than a high viscosity oil.

If you have the bottle laying around (or know the name) we can dig up an MSDS on the product.

[Infinitrium]

Hey Dan, what do you know about the CD-2 oil detergent? My parents had an 89 V6 Mazda MPV that had noisy HLA's, and one day I tossed in a bottle of the CD-2 detergent to see if it would shut them up. It did, for about 2 weeks they were quiet just like they should be, but then they started acting up again. I changed the oil about a month later and put in some cheap 15W40 and that quiet them permanently. They got rid of the van a few months later so who knows if the HLA's would have stayed quiet for good. That van was a piece of crap anyway. Overheated numerous times, body was completely rotten, windshield cracked in half a dozen places, exhaust system rotted away, but it still ran pretty good, even with 370,000 kms. I kinda miss it though.

[bassman]

it was clear and really thin like water.
had a strong solvent smell.
i will get the name later and post it.

shayne

[darkdan]

cd-2 oil detergent is a waste of $2.20

It's viscosity is a VERY thin SAE 20 (almost 10).

It also has very few "detergents". Contains about 1/3 of those in that 15w40 you put into it later.

According to an actual expert they didn't detect any solvents in it. So why it worked is beyond anyones guess.

Perhaps the super low viscosity allowed it to be carried or splashed into places that hadn't seen lubrication in a while.

[bassman]

it was wynns valve treatment.
seems to keep them from clickin.

shayne

[darkdan]

If it's wynn's oil treatment it appears to be nothing more than a light oil with a large amount of ZDDP. ZDDP is an organic compound used as an extreme pressure/anti-wear additive. Recently, the API (with SM) put a cap on how much can be in motor oil.

This additive would help out older engines with flat-tapet cams, but most likely won't do enough to justify the cost. There are much better oil treatments available.

http://www.wynns.ca/pages/english/e_msds-con.html

[CryptokiD]

if you lifters are tickin it means you need to adjust them, or replace them. no mechanic in a bottle is going to fix some noisy lifters.

[darkdan]

Only carbed festivas are adjustable.

B3s with fuel injection use hydralic lash adjusters. These get dirty (or a seal goes bad) and cause them to not function properly at start-up. Cleaning them restores their ability to work.

Of course, if a seal is bad on them then they must be replaced.