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Should I Fix my Festiva or Part It Out

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  • Should I Fix my Festiva or Part It Out

    Recently I decided to rebuild the engine on my 93 Festiva.

    I broke it down and took the block and the head to a machine shop to see how much it would cost to get it rebuilt.

    If the head had 8 good valves and if the block didn't have to be bored over I could do it for less then $500.

    However, the block has to be bored over and the pistons are going to cost about $25 each, added to the cost of the additional machine work it looks like I will be spending between $700 and $800 to get it all back together.

    That is a little more then I am willing to spend so I am considering selling the car for parts.

    If I did, I would want to get a least $1000 but I doubt that's possible.

    But there is no harm in asking.


    If you need a part for your Festiva please post an offer below or email me at bobadebt@ec.rr.com


    The only problem I had with the car was it burnt too much oil, but other then that it ran fine and I was getting 42mpg despite the oil issue, so are of the other parts should be fine.

    Thanks

  • #2
    Can you say B6? You could probably pick a good used one up for less that what you were going to be charged to fix the B3. That's what I would do considering the car is other wise in good shape.

    Ian
    92 GL Sport
    Calgary
    Ian
    Calgary AB, Canada
    93 L B6T: June 2016 FOTM
    59 Austin Healey "Bugeye" Sprite

    "It's infinitely better to fail with courage than to sit idle with fear...." Chip Gaines (pg 167 of Capital Gaines, Smart Things I Learned Doing Stupid Stuff)

    Link to the "Road Trip Starting Points" page of my Econobox Café blog

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    • #3
      near free

      i have one good engine for 100$ less shipping, i am in quebec canada...lol
      it have 65 000 milles and it is one of many car i have part-out. it came from aspire 95 and in great condition (efi)

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      • #4
        I considered a B-6 Swap but in eastern NC it would cost about $700 for an engine and I'm not sure I can do the work.

        I also don't like the idea of putting my battery in the trunk.

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        • #5
          If you get a B6 with the intake routed the same as the b3 the battery can stay where it is. It's just like putting the B3 back in.

          Look around here and in Wil's articles and you should find all the info you need.

          Ian
          92 GL Sport
          Calgary
          Ian
          Calgary AB, Canada
          93 L B6T: June 2016 FOTM
          59 Austin Healey "Bugeye" Sprite

          "It's infinitely better to fail with courage than to sit idle with fear...." Chip Gaines (pg 167 of Capital Gaines, Smart Things I Learned Doing Stupid Stuff)

          Link to the "Road Trip Starting Points" page of my Econobox Café blog

          Comment


          • #6
            engine

            here in st.Louis one salvage yard was hard up for business that they were willing to cut out the motor i wanted and set it on the back of my pickup for $100.00. it shows the difference on prices in different parts of the country.

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            • #7
              do a lot of calling around. The smaller junkyards give much better prices usually than the ones that advertise a lot. My whole b6 swap hasn't broken $500 I broke some stuff, alt, battery mount, MAF. Those pushed me over $450, otherwise it would have been $445 for the b6, new gaskets, a new waterpump, and new belts.

              I think that the prices in WA are among the highest I've seen anywhere too.
              OX SMASH!!

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              • #8
                I spent less than 500.00 on a NEW in the box crate B6. Easy one weekend swap. The older B6 from a Mazda 323 is virually the same as the B3.. hell it'll even pass inspection as a B3..

                Of course in the pic I had already painted things.. while waiting for the right weekend to install...



                In my case, very minor things had to be done or swapped from the old engine.. like distributor (since I'm using the B3 ECU), crank pulley, Metal coolant line, water neck, capped the extra vacuum inlets on the intake and replacing the injector wire receptacles with the B6 versions..
                all pretty self explanatory..

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