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Clutch replacement on 93 using engine hoist

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  • Clutch replacement on 93 using engine hoist

    On of my 93s shudders when engaging the clutch. I recently got the car with 101K and don't know its history.

    I've read all the posts on preferred methods on doing a clutch replacement.

    Given that:
    1. I have an engine hoist with chain and stuff to easily hoist the engine in level attitude.
    2. I don't really have a way to stabilize the car on tall jacks and don't like crawling under things that could fall on me.
    3. I don't have all that nasty carb plumbing stuff (it's FI, not carbed) in the way.
    4. I may want to do other work on the engine (check it over for leaks) since I recently got this car and don't know its history (e.g. mileage on timing belt).
    5. My experience getting drive shafts out of transmissions is not great.
    6. I'm going this alone, outside, in a tiny carport.
    7. I might want to clean the engine and engine compartment.

    It would seem that it's better to lift the engine out than to drop the tranny.

    Does it matter that the car has a/c? Do I lift all that stuff (the heat exchanger that I think is in front of the radiator) up, too? What about connection to the firewall? I have no capabilty to recharge the a/c, and shops around here charge a fortune to mess with a/c.

    Any comments? Am I missing something? I plan to do this pretty soon, like this weekend.
    88L black, dailydriver
    88LX silver a/c, dailydriver
    4 88/89 disassembled
    91L green
    91GL aqua pwrsteer
    92GL red a/c reardmg
    3 93L blue, 2 dailydriver, 1 frontdmg
    1952 Cessna170B floatplane

  • #2
    Well Alaskafestivaguy, it doesn't sound like you have a lot of experience yet, so I would just drop the tranny and switch out the clutch for now. You are going to do a LOT more work pulling the engine and messing with the ac system. Do you not have jackstands? Above it says that you don't have a way to stabilize the car on the tall jackstands? If you don't you should RUN out and get a good set if you plan on working on your car in the future.
    I also suggest dropping the tranny because you would have to take your car to the shop to get the ac system evacuated before you disconnected the lines. You would also have to take it back to the shop to have the system charged back up once you were done.
    You will have to pull the drive axles while switching out the clutch anyway, and it's not too hard if you have the right tools.
    If you plan on completing your project this weekend, and you don't have an experienced assistant, I definitely wouldn't attempt pulling the engine.
    I'm not trying to discourage you from doing this, but inevitably things will happen and the car will be down longer than you expected due to a myriad of variables.

    Anyway, this is just my opinion.
    90 Festiva with Brand new B3, 5spd
    92 B6 Festiva, 5spd
    94 Mustang DSS 331, Vortec S-Trim, 5 spd
    94 Mustang GT, stock, automatic

    Comment


    • #3
      with air.....drop the tranny....that way you do not have to disconnect any of the lines for the air and such. If no air I would say 50/50, I removed my engine to replace mine....pretty simple job really with the right tools....then it gives you a lot of options while the engine is out of the car....but if I had working pressurized air.....I would drop the tranny.....IMO.
      "FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
      89L Silver EFI auto
      91GL Green Auto DD
      There ain't no rest for the wicked
      until we close our eyes for good.
      I will sleep when I die!
      I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!

      Comment


      • #4
        I agree with the above comments.

        If the axles come out without too much of an issue, dropping the transmission is a pretty easy task. You would be opening a big can of worms by pulling the engine.

        Installing the transmission is much easier if you have a helper, for allignment purposes. You can do it alone, but it's usually tougher.

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        • #5
          OK, I'll be dropping the tranny.

          I actually do have quite a bit of mechanical experience -- my first car was a brand new Fiat, which was ready for its fifth valve job when I sold it with only 90,000 miles on the meter. It would regularly snap clutch cables, so I got good enough to replace those on the side of the road in the dark by feel in half an hour. I also owned an Amphicar for many years. Having to tie strings to all your tools in case you dropped them was a pain.
          88L black, dailydriver
          88LX silver a/c, dailydriver
          4 88/89 disassembled
          91L green
          91GL aqua pwrsteer
          92GL red a/c reardmg
          3 93L blue, 2 dailydriver, 1 frontdmg
          1952 Cessna170B floatplane

          Comment


          • #6
            They salt the roads where you live correct? Rust is always a factor as well, broken bolts tend to slow you down heheheh.
            90 Festiva with Brand new B3, 5spd
            92 B6 Festiva, 5spd
            94 Mustang DSS 331, Vortec S-Trim, 5 spd
            94 Mustang GT, stock, automatic

            Comment


            • #7
              Drop the tranny....who would want to mess with draining the coolant, disconnecting the fuel lines and all the electrical stuff. with the starter out...I can pick up the tranny with one hand thru the starter hole.

              And for the shutter....I would check all the engine and tranny mounts...including the cross memeber under the tranny.
              Joe Lutz

              The SKATE ..... 1992L 5spd
              The Greatest Purchase I Ever Made

              Comment


              • #8
                Note: If you pull the motor/trans, You do not have to disconnect the A/C lines. Remove the A/C belt and the compressor's pivot bolt/s. Tie the compressor out of the way.

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