Need some help

[LauraZ]

Hi all. I am trying to figure out what's going on with this festiva that my parents bought. It's an 89 L automatic. It wasn't running when they bought it and the guy said something was wrong with the ECU. After getting a look at the car, I think there was possibly more to it. I spent most of today trying to figure out how to put stuff back together. Many things were loose such as the VAF, air cleaner box, o2 sensor, fuel filter, gas sending unit, and a sensor that I don't know where it goes. I took a couple of pictures, and if someone could identify it and it's location, I would really appreciate it.

Also, since so many things were messed with on this car, could you guys list some things that I should check that would cause it to not start? I realize that the ECU is probably a pretty good place to start. LOL The car cranks, but it won't start.

Here are a couple of pics of some of the mess. This is how it was when I got it here. Notice the creative wiring in the fuse panel?

Thanks for any help guys!

[CHills]

Very nice looking car!

I can't help you fix it though, don't know anything about car wires/ electronics (yet).

[wrestler3025]

Hey Laura,

I that sensor goes in the bottom of the radiator. It's a temp sensor. It looks like you've got a project ahead of you! Good luck with it.

[Slyder]

Hi LauraZ im not a 100% sure but look on the radiator i think thats where the sensor belongs. As for things that might stop the car from starting ... off the top of me head there is a inertia switch for the fuel pump that might be off, check the spark plug wires for spark, check the air filter (i dont think this would stop it from starting but doesnt hurt to check) also the fuel pump relay.
If anything ive said is incorrect please feel free to say so.

mainly i would check that it has air, spark, and fuel.

good luck

Tim

[LauraZ]

Thanks for the replies. I thought it went in the bottom of the radiator too, and I spent quite a while on the ground staring at the bottom of the radiator, trying to find where it goes. drool No joy though. LOL This car will not defeat me!!! (yeah, I say that now......)

[wrestler3025]

It goes on the bottom portion and the prongs would face the engine if you were screwing it into is location not pointing down. Hope that helps a little.

[joebreck117]

the inertia switch he speaks of...it's by the rear speaker on the driver side. Little black thing with a red button.
The button should be down, if not i believe the fuel pump will not work.

[Pu241]

Thanks for the replies. I thought it went in the bottom of the radiator too, and I spent quite a while on the ground staring at the bottom of the radiator, trying to find where it goes. drool No joy though.

Does the radiator have fluid in it?
If so then the radiator was replaced with one that does not have the sensor port.
Easy way to check much of the fuel circuit is to take the out off the fuel filter and turn the key to "on".
Believe this will power the pump and fuel will come out of the filter.
ONLY DO THIS FOR A SECOND!
Because fuel is under pressure and will go everywhere!
NO open flames or smoking while doing this!
If you get fuel out you will know the pump,relay, and filter are working and the fuel shut off is not engaged.
If no fuel out then could be pump, relay, fuel shutoff, or even badly clogged fuel filter(low probability).
Good luck!
It looks to be a clean car!

[CharlieZ]

It goes on the bottom portion and the prongs would face the engine if you were screwing it into is location not pointing down. Hope that helps a little.

A later model radiator might not have a fitting in the lower tank for the sensor. My 90 doesn't and neither does a spare radiator from a 91. The way it's hanging loose shouldn't keep it from starting.

[LauraZ]

Good morning all!

Yes, the radiator has fluid in it. I think you are correct, in that the radiator has been changed out. Whew! I was going crazy lookin' for someplace to plug that thing in! LOL Glad I asked you guys 'cause it was about to get ugly.:evil4: Is there a problem with that sensor not being connected? CharlieZ, I know you said it shouldn't prevent the car from starting, but what should I do with it? (be nice LOL) Just bunch it up and zip tie it to keep it out of the way?

I was going to check out the fuel pump (and all the lines too) after I get my little ones to school today. I located the inertia switch yesterday, but it looks a bit different than what you all have described; it's on the drivers side strut tower, but it's a small black box with a white rectangular button on top. Anyone seen one like that? Anyway, I wasn't hearing anything coming from the pump when I would turn the key on.

Thanks guys,

Laura Z

[Pu241]

Is there a problem with that sensor not being connected? CharlieZ, I know you said it shouldn't prevent the car from starting, but what should I do with it? (be nice LOL) Just bunch it up and zip tie it to keep it out of the way?

Can't really help you with this one.
But need to determine if it needs to be jumper-ed, in which case cutting it out of the circuit and soldering the wires together and shrink tubing the joint is an option (Unless you want to swap out the radiator with the correct one).

.....it's a small black box with a white rectangular button on top. Anyone seen one like that? Anyway, I wasn't hearing anything coming from the pump when I would turn the key on.

Yes white buttons have been reported as well, but all I have seen are red, no issue there, provided the button is NOT "out"!
If it is, press it "in" and problem solved (if your lucky).
You may not hear anything when the key is moved to the "on" position.
The OEM pumps were pretty quiet.

Not sure of this, but in Pic #4 it appears your wiring on the distributor is not correct.
The firing order is 1-3-4-2, counter clock-wise as seen from the driver-side (top of the distributor).
Can provide more details if the order is not as stated above.

[LauraZ]

You have a sharp eye Pu241! #1 and #3 were swapped. Now, if I'm looking at the distributor from the drivers side, the top right connection should be #1 and the top left should be 3, correct? Bottom left will be 4 and bottom right 2. Tried to start it after switching those and it galloped a bit like it wanted to start, but wouldn't. There was quite the smell of gasoline in the air after that too.

I was just looking in the manual, and it says something about rotating the distributor to advance or retard the timing. That was loose and flopping around . How should I rotate it to tighten it? I don't have a timing light.

Thanks!

Laura Z

[Pu241]

All right so we have made progress!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Because if it was "galloping a bit" isn't that better than what it was doing?
Meaning you have fuel, spark, and air getting to the engine!
Major plus!!!!!!!
Yes, the distributor wiring order you have is now correct.
The specific location of the various cylinders on the distributor isn't as it should be, but neither is it on my car.
What you want to do is tighten down the distributor (uses two 12 mm bolts, I think).
Do not crank them down, you just want it so it doesn't "flopping around" without you intensionally moving it!
Now that it semi-secured.
rotate it a little clockwise (maybe 1/8 or 1/16 of a turn).
Try starting it!
If it starts or sounds like it's getting closer to starting move it in the same direction a little more.
If it sound worst move the distributor in the opposite direction and try again.
You will have limited travel in either the clockwise direction or counter clockwise direction.
If you can't get it to run even poorly by rotating the distributor then the rotor was put on in the wrong position.
Removed the two screws holding the distributor cap on and note how the rotor is positioned.
Pull it off and move it to the next location, re-secure the distributor cap, and start the rotation of the distributor as a whole again in either the CC or CCW rotation.
Testing to see if you get ignition.
Believe there are 3 positions the rotor can be located in.
So you may have to play with it a little to get it were you want.
Ultimately, after you get it going tighten down the distributor bolts.
You will want to have it timed with a timing light to get maximum performance.
But timing by ear will get you close.
Check those hoses going to the advance/retard canister to makes sure they are not cracked/broke/disconnected.

[Fordverde]

That distributor seams from a carb Festy, or is it share with some FI Festys?

[Pu241]

That distributor seams from a carb Festy, or is it share with some FI Festys?

Nope, never seen one on a carby like this!
As far as I know the dist. on the 89 EFI was unique!