Rear Brakes

[88FestivaLX]

Is this a fairly easy task? I'm worried about how the book says to tighten the nut a certain way. Also, I had a small noise coming from the pass rear brake. I took the drum off and the front shoe at the top is worn completely down, but the rest of that shoe and the rear shoe looks ok. Do I have something thats not working right back there? I always dread doing brakes and normally have somebody else do them, but I'm hurting really bad financially so I have to do it myself. Thanks!

[Nerd Racing]

its fairly easy, while you are in there you should re-pack your rear bearings. Also follow the instructions on the torque specs to a T. One side should be reverse threads I am fairly certain.

[88FestivaLX]

Yea, the torque specs are what I'm worried about. I also wanna make sure I get enough grease back where its supposed to be. I'm gonna put new drums, pads, hardware and bearings on. I've done plenty of mechanical work, I've just always hated drum brakes. And I don't wanna put all this new stuff on and not put enough grease or not adjust them right or something.

[Levitan]

Hey 88,

Search my name in repair concerning this topic, back around May of this year. I did my rear bearings and torqued them like an old Chevy. Went to Ohiostiva and back and my bearings, along with the spindle, were toast. I then implemented my own way with the specs in the manual and everything has been fine since. It's easy, just do it the way I explained it and you should be fine. You know the how to "pack" bearings with grease, yes? As long as you know how to do that, you'll be fine.

[jglutz]

If all you need is brakes shoes....try this
Mark the nut to the spindle prior to removing it. usuall a scibed line will work well.
When changing the brakes...only work on on side of the car at a time.
Take off all of the hardware and lay it on the floor just like it came off the car.
Re-install in the order that you take it off.
You also have the other wheel to refer too.
Be sure to cover the spindle with a clean rag to prevent it from getting dirty.
Tighten th spindle nut to match up the marks. If you are a turn to lose you will know it.
You will never get a turn to tight.
Make sure the nut is staked.

[CharlieZ]

If all you need is brakes shoes....try this
Mark the nut to the spindle prior to removing it. usuall a scibed line will work well.
<snip>
Tighten th spindle nut to match up the marks. If you are a turn to lose you will know it.
You will never get a turn to tight.
Make sure the nut is staked.

If I follow what you're saying, you are using the original (previously staked) axle nut. How can you do that?

[geezerstiva]

just unscrew it... then tighten it again, and use a chisel or something to push it back down in there. thats what i've always done.

[milehighbear]

Is his rear wheels different than mine. On mine i have the nut, one has reverse threads, and then i have a crown that fits over the nut and a cotter key goes in. Mine is a 93 L. When i put my drum back on, i tightened nut to just past the hole so the crown fit over and cotter pin went in.

[jglutz]

If I follow what you're saying, you are using the original (previously staked) axle nut. How can you do that?

If your on a budget.....by all means yes.

[sam.1956]

The 92 & 93 Festiva rear spindles have holes for a cotter pin (as do the Aspire spindles). Those 2 model years should also have the castellated crown cover over the spindle nut.

Sam

[FB71]

^^^ Sorry Sam. Not all the '92s and '93s had the castle nut. I have a '93 with a stake nut, and I recall seeing both on '93s when I was but a greenhorn in a Ford dealer. Ford shows the stake nut as a "Type 1" spindle and the castle nut as a "Type 2" spindle, starting in '91. Apparently, Kia added another parts supplier to manufacture rear spindles. Suppliers are given a spec and dimensions. As long as the parts meets dims and specs, it's accepted. The spec for a spindle usually just calls out a requirement for the retaining nut to be prevented from rotating, and it's up to the supplier to determine the method.

[Bathtub Tom]

I'd also suggest checking the correct operation of the wheel cylinders. Before removing the brake shoes get someone to very gently press the brake pedal. When you see one piston start to move out get them to stop. Reset the self adjusters. Wedge something like a screwdriver between the lip on the backplate and the shoe that just moved, and get them to gently press the brake again to make sure both pistons operate freely.

[88FestivaLX]

Whats the best way to grease the spindle and everything? How much should I use? Whats the best type of grease to use?

[milehighbear]

i just did my rear bearings and brakes and i went to autozone and got some pennzoil premium bearing grease, 707L. The say it causes less friction. Its red in color and my brother says he uses it all the time too and he is a mechanic

[sam.1956]

Thanks Jim for the succinct clarification! As you know, I'm working from a limited knowledge base (I think we call that, "empirical engineering"). I trust your insights & experience to be much more accurate than my own!!

My 88 L has the drilled spindle on the passenger side but the regular one on the driver's side. I can only assume this was due to a "user replacement" before I acquired the car! LOL!