Car dies at higher rpm

[smithtaka4n1]

Started out I was getting bad gas mileage, then the car just started dying. It will start but then idle real high like 2500-2750 and sometimes keeps climbing, as soon as it hits 3000 car dies. Once the car is finally warm it will run alright but there is a strong smell of gas after shutting it off. I am not real familiar with carbs but assume the problem is in there. It is an 88 LX. Any ideas?

[smithtaka4n1]

Well, the car doesnt die as often anymore (adjusted timing) but my cold idle still runs around 2500 creeping up to 3000. The fast idle screw is backed out as far as it can go from what I can tell. Once the car is warm it will idle around 800-1000.

[Levitan]

I was having the same problem when I realized there were idle adjustment screws on both sides of the carb. Mine had a big star-like knob on the passenger side then another little screw adjuster on the drivers side at the the throttle cable/carb attachment area. I adjusted throttle cable one down and that seemed to fix the problem. One thing I did, after being recommended by elcamino1, was spraying carb cleaner around all the hoses to make sure I didn't have a vacuum leak. Fortunately, I didn't have any, but is worth noting because if a ride has a vacuum leak , no amount of timing and carb adjusting will fix the problem.

[smithtaka4n1]

Thanks for the tips. I knew aboout the 2 adjustments if I back the one on the passenger side off it wont idle when warm and the one on the driver side is backed as far as it can go. Not real sure what spraying the carb cleaner does around vaccum lines? How do you know if theres a leak?

[Levitan]

When you spray carb cleaner around vacuum lines, if there is a leak, the car will bog down. Start the car up, let it get warm, spray a small amount in the carb itself and you'll see what it does. Then, start spraying around hose ends, hoses, anywhere that could be leaking air. Try not to spray so much that it gets sucked throught he top of the carb because that will bog it down, like when you first tested. Maybe use a can with a straw to pinpoint areas. You can use about anything, brake cleaner, carb cleaner, I think somebody even told me wd-40, but have never tried it.

[FestYboy]

death at higher RPM = bad coil. it's not the carb at that point because your well past the idle circuit and into the main jets. i recomend a new coil while your adjusting things. Accel and MSD both make a performance coil that is cheaper than buying a stock coil.

[Levitan]

Well, then, if it's the coil, that's an easy enough test. The manuals outline exactly how to do it. Remove the coil, Take an ohm meter, put one end on the (+) side little post and the other end on the (-) little post. If I'm not mistake that shout read between 16-18 ohms(or some other measurement that the manual says). I had a bad one of those and it read above 20. Still wasn't the problem. Mine ended up being the distributor was bad. I'll pm you everything I got from Jim and how we determined it was the distributor.
Maybe it'll help you out.

[WmWatt]

Don't rule out the ignition control module inside the distributor. It can be removed and tested for free at some auto parts stores. Mine has been replaced twice, once I suspect because the service station did nto bed the replacement in dielectric heat transfer paste (the stuff you find under the CPU in a computer) available in a little capsule for about $1 at electronics stores.

[smithtaka4n1]

I will try and test the coil. I will have to borrow a meter so will have to wait a couple days. The distributor and control module are both new(reman) from rockauto.

[FestYboy]

just remember that static measurements may still show a good coil, but once it gets warm, it fails (nat saying that's the case, but an outcome) happened to me twice in Scrappy, and once in the justy.

[Sparky]

Thanks, guys....just had a similar experience in the Baron. Checked primary on the coil and got on open reading when the motor was warm....secondary was fine. Primary reading cold is unknown at this time, but I suspect I've got a bad coil. The Baron almost stranded me...once the car got warm, it started doing what you all have described, culminating in a stall...it would crank again ok, but any attempt at acceleration would bring on the bucking and stall.

[FestYboy]

^^ you have a bad coil...

[Sparky]

Thanks, FestYboy! I'll let you all know if that fixes the issue....I am very confident that's it in a nutshell!

[smithtaka4n1]

alright I did not find a digital meter to check the coil yet but I tried starting it again today now it wont stay running at all. It starts fine every time runs a 1-2 seconds and dies. I called to get a coil and just try a new one but cant get one till monday. grrr

[FestYboy]

remember that the OEM ones are more expensive and don't put out as much juice, so get an accel or msd coil.

and when you're ready to sell it, LMK