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  • Weird Science

    I just bought a 93 with air. The blower motor circuit just decided to quit. I get out the multi meter and i find that it has 12v to each side of the fuse plug. How can this be possible? The blower was working on all 3 speeds. So i know the blower and the switch is ok. Why would i have 12v to both sides of the fuse plug? Nothing got hot or burned that i know of. I diden't smell anything burning. All of a sudden it just quit! I've never seen anyting like this before. And i'm an old school grease monkey and i'm stumped. Heat without a blower is no heat. HELP! Thanks
    Is that someone there ??? 1981 VW diesel pickup---1988.5 Suzuki Samurai tin top---1993 Festiva---1974 Bricklin SV-1 ( very thirsty basket case)---2003 Tracker(bells and whistles)




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  • #2
    How did you exactly connect the meter?

    If you had one side of the meter connected to ground and the other side connected to the line side of the fuse....you should have 12VDC....if the probe is then connected to the load side of the fuse and you have 12VDC...you just measured that the fuse is good...the problem is somewhere else.

    If you measured 12VDC on the load side of the fuse with the fuse removed....impossible.

    If you had the meter connected to bothsides of the fuse...one probe on the line side and one probe on the load side....and you measured 12VDC...your meter is broken.
    Joe Lutz

    The SKATE ..... 1992L 5spd
    The Greatest Purchase I Ever Made

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    • #3
      If the fan is on you may read 12v across fuse if it is bad. All voltage is dropped across an open circuit. Sorry, showing my nerd side.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by jglutz View Post
        How did you exactly connect the meter?

        If you had one side of the meter connected to ground and the other side connected to the line side of the fuse....you should have 12VDC....if the probe is then connected to the load side of the fuse and you have 12VDC...you just measured that the fuse is good...the problem is somewhere else.

        If you measured 12VDC on the load side of the fuse with the fuse removed....impossible.

        If you had the meter connected to bothsides of the fuse...one probe on the line side and one probe on the load side....and you measured 12VDC...your meter is broken.
        I have 12v on both line and load sides with the fuse pulled. With the neg. probe to chassis ground. I thought it was the meter too. But it's working fine. Impossible is what i said to myself. So i re-checked it several times. Same results. I might just hot wire the blower fan switch with a inline fuse if i can't figure this crazy thing out. I drove VW type 1s for years. No heat in the winter is not fun! Thanks
        Is that someone there ??? 1981 VW diesel pickup---1988.5 Suzuki Samurai tin top---1993 Festiva---1974 Bricklin SV-1 ( very thirsty basket case)---2003 Tracker(bells and whistles)




        )

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        • #5
          Test to see if 12v is going to the blower...The one I replaced in my brother's did the same just quit one day...tested at the blower and it was showing 12v.. try it and see..

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          • #6
            Originally posted by challe1 View Post
            Test to see if 12v is going to the blower...The one I replaced in my brother's did the same just quit one day...tested at the blower and it was showing 12v.. try it and see..
            The problem is i have a fuse plug that has power 12v on the load side as well as power 12v on the line side . The voltage has no where to go. It can't complete the circuit. And i have no idea how you would trace down the source of the 12volts that has somehow found its way to the load side of the heater fuse plug. I tested the switch,blower,blower resistors and there all fine. The Haynes manual page 12-39 shows 3 AC relays but it does not tell you where they are located. Where are they located? It also shows a blue and red wire feeding the blower switch from what they call a electronic control assembly. Could this be the source of the problem? Can this electronic control assembly be removed and tested by someone somewere? I'm gonna give it one more day and then i'm gonna run a fused hot wire to the blower switch and if it works i'm gonna call it fixed. Enuff is enuff. Theres other less irratating things that need to be done. Thanks
            Last edited by drof 89; 12-02-2008, 07:41 AM.
            Is that someone there ??? 1981 VW diesel pickup---1988.5 Suzuki Samurai tin top---1993 Festiva---1974 Bricklin SV-1 ( very thirsty basket case)---2003 Tracker(bells and whistles)




            )

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            • #7
              where do you live, i can help as i'm in youre area... and i have off thurs and fri and can get off any other time i need.
              Trees aren't kind to me...

              currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
              94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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              • #8
                Thanks for the offer but i finally got it working. It was a problem with the air control cable on the passenger side of the heater housing. There must be some kind of vacuum or contact switch that triggers a relay or something else in the heating/AC electrical system. If that cable slips in its metal holding clip and can't make the air flaps move their full stroke. It shuts something down and the blower will not work. I tie wrapped the cable on both sides of the metal clip. It will not move again! Thanks again for the offer.
                Is that someone there ??? 1981 VW diesel pickup---1988.5 Suzuki Samurai tin top---1993 Festiva---1974 Bricklin SV-1 ( very thirsty basket case)---2003 Tracker(bells and whistles)




                )

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