What does that mean burp the system?
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Festiva wont stop overheating
Collapse
X
-
This is what my car was doing when I bought it, and it was a blown head gasket. My thermostat was bad also, so I took it out completely. Changed the head gasket and it's been running fine in normal traffic, but starts to overheat in stop and go city traffic (found out my fan isn't working either). Also, just in case you don't know, like myself and some others on here didn't know, when you turn on your heat it won't come out of the vents, only from the floorboard and defrost areas."Lane, I've been going to this high school for seven and a half years. I'm no dummy."
Gone but never forgotten, "Hulkstiva"...http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...ht=progression
Comment
-
If it is overheating, your heater won't work. Not sure why, but just like low water in the cooling system, the fan will blow cold air.
Burping the system is putting it up on jackstands so the air that is trapped in various pockets of the cooling system, can float the air bubblles to the highest point. Highest point being your radiator fill hole, because it is up on stands. Allows you to get more 50/50 coolant in the system.
At this point I would do things in this order. I'm saying what I would do, not telling you to do this!
Items needed.
Flush
50/50 coolant
New proper thermostat
!!!! I WOULD MAKE SURE THAT CAR COOLS DOWN BEFORE OPENING RADIATOR CAP OR RADIATOR PETCOCK BETWEeN EACH STEP !!!!!!!
Flush, following the instructions on the bottle. After draining the flush, I'd run water with a hose through the top of the radiator and out the petcock for added rinsing of radiator.
I'd then close the petcock and refill entire system. I would re-warm car and get that fresh water flowing through the system to further rinse.
I would allow to cool down and then drain entire system. I would change to a proper thermostat. I'm changing the thermostat now, as to before, to eliminate all the old contaminates from getting into my new thermostat, because they are spendy.
I would refill with 50/50 and burp the car....just as a way of eliminating one more possible problem.
I would drive the car in circles around my house if I had to, trying to replicate the original driving conditions. May sound stupid and, maybe, even embarrassing, but I'd rather break down near home than 20 minutes away. Maybe that's just me.
If it does start to overheat, I'm not far from home and I can re-use some of the coolant when I drain the system.....saves a couple bucks.
Then I would get a waterpump and get acquainted with the search button for waterpump installation, because that would be next on my list. I think it would say to me that waterpump is moving the water, but, maybe not enough or even sporatically.ENFORCER - Midwest Festiva Inc., Iowa
#1 '90 Sport to modified Lx - RollazX
#2 .....Cheesehead
#3 '91 White - Donor Car
#4 .....Montana Project
SOLD----Levistiva for $1500
Bought her back for $450
Now that's darn near priceless!!
Comment
-
my final guess is that your system is clogged....your heater core doesn't blow hot and you constatly see rust in the system no matter howmany times you flush. Get a new radiator and heater core.---------------------------------------------------
The Jester - Midwest Festiva Inc., Missouri Chapter
---------------------------------------------------
BUILD'EM CHEAP, RUN'EM HARD, REPAIR'EM DAILY!
Comment
-
Blown head gasket!Renegade-Midwest Festiva Inc.Illinois Chapter
93 Festiva L Aspire 5sp Lots of upgrades & mods
99 Dodge Caravan SE
95 Taurus SHO auto 265hp
94 F150 351W auto (for sale)
78 Chevy elcamino 500hp 383 stroker
78 Chrysler Cordoba 360 (for sale)
03 Harley Davidson Electra Glide
95 Honda 1500 Goldwing SE
95 F150 4X4 6 inch lift,38" mudders
95 Iszuzu Trooper LS
Comment
-
not to be off topic, but which way does the water flow? INTO the thermostat housing from the top of the radiator hose or OUT of the thermostat housing?
also, i have rusty water as well... will it continue to be rusty even if i use distilled water?
-"Hairlipstiva" 1991 GL 5spd (swapped from an auto), rolling on Enkei 14x6 +38 with 195/45/14 Toyo's, Jensen MP5720 CD deck, tach install, LED strip in cluster, down position rear wiper, FMS springs, Gabriel shocks on 4 corners, Acura Integra short shifter
-Escort GT 91 donor car with BP, G5M-R tranny to be dropped in the little guy...
-Aspire brake swap COMPLETE!
https://www.wunderground.com/persona...?ID=KOKOWASS38
Comment
-
the rust is most probably from the engine block or the radiator itslef. Lower hose routes cool coolant into the motor. Upper hose (thermostat side) transfers hot coolant to be cooled by radiator.---------------------------------------------------
The Jester - Midwest Festiva Inc., Missouri Chapter
---------------------------------------------------
BUILD'EM CHEAP, RUN'EM HARD, REPAIR'EM DAILY!
Comment
-
Originally posted by ejp2fast View Postnot to be off topic, but which way does the water flow? INTO the thermostat housing from the top of the radiator hose or OUT of the thermostat housing?
also, i have rusty water as well... will it continue to be rusty even if i use distilled water?
Rusty water: Every 18-24k or 2 years. I flush the coolant system....change the t'stat and gasket...change the hoses...and add new 50/50 mix of Prestone. I've used both tap water and untreated well water with out any problems.Joe Lutz
The SKATE ..... 1992L 5spd
The Greatest Purchase I Ever Made
Comment
-
Are you loosing coolant? How does the car run before it gets overheated?
BP Festiva http://www.cardomain.com/ride/723319 - SOLD
BPT Festiva www.cardomain.com/ride/2260009 - SOLD
BPT GTX www.cardomain.com/ride/2436495 - SOLD
New GTX - http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3294846/ - SOLD
Comment
-
Originally posted by jglutz View PostAll cars...or at least I have never seen differently....the Water returns to the engine into the top of the radiator and the pump sucks water from the bottom of the radiator. The T'stat is located between the water pump ant the top of the radiator.
coolant flows into the pump from the bottom of the radiator, thru the block and head, and out the t-stat to the top of the rad.
Reverse cooling flow (most all aluminum/magnesium engines):
coolant flows into pump thru t-stat, then thru block and head, then out to rad. This is typically from the bottom of the rad, into the t-stat housing (often on the side or front of the block). Chrysler 2.7L are setup like this.Jim DeAngelis
kittens give Morbo gas!!
Bright Blue 93 GL (1.6 8v, 5spd) (Hula-Baloo)
Performance Red 94 Aspire SE (Stimpson)
Comment
-
Originally posted by mattswabb View PostAre you loosing coolant? How does the car run before it gets overheated?Some people are humbly grateful...........................While some people are grumbly hateful
Comment
-
Originally posted by Miclo Verta View Posttake out the new thermostat untill next weekend when i can afford the right one"FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
89L Silver EFI auto
91GL Green Auto DD
There ain't no rest for the wicked
until we close our eyes for good.
I will sleep when I die!
I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!
Comment
-
Originally posted by ls1_se7en View PostYou may have gotten a bad thermostat. Take it out, boil some water, drop it in, if it opens, its ok. It may not be opening if you are overheating faster than before. This kinda goes against the whole water flowing in the radiator, but it's free to check this.Some people are humbly grateful...........................While some people are grumbly hateful
Comment
Comment