Code Reader

[XPB6018]

I was on a website that makes the OBDI code reader. They posted a list of engine size it covers. I ask them about the Festiva 1.3L they said it didn't make one for it.
Possibly the "Super Star II tester" might be one! Have any of you guys heard about this one or any other for the Ford festiva.
Thanks Claude R.

[Mazda_Power]

Check out my thread about checking the codes. You don't need a silly code scaner, just a multimeter.

Aaorn

[FestivaBiker1971]

yup, the mazda mecs stuff is a different critter. analog meter works great. even works on two-digit eec-iv if ya know which wires..... (sto and sig rtn if i remember)

[aithanmier]

say Jim did you ever happen to work for ford? just curious...

[FestivaBiker1971]

yup, still do. I'm a Service Training Instructor in NJ.

[XPB6018]

CODE READER

Hi Jim, there must be a real code reader out there , I'd rather have a code reader then a multimeter it would be more accurate.
Thanks Claude R.

[FestivaBiker1971]

not necessarily. the super star II just counted the pulses and displayed them as numeric value. when I worked on mazda mecs vehicles (festy, probe, aspire, capri), the tool of choice for code reading was my trusty old $19 radio shack analog meter. nothing better. the super star and ngs have a habit of miscounting pulses, resulting in a wrong code displayed or no code. typically, no code (no neddle sweeps) means there's no problem. mecs doesn't output a 'pass' code like eec-iv/v. the way you verified the module was even responding was by setting a fault and reading that code. then correct the fault, and see if any other codes are output. no reaction means 'system clear'. confusing as hell by ford standards, but effective and relatively simple. I even asked my mazda counterpart up in somerset, nj about this. he agreed, analog meter is best for this era of mecs.

[XPB6018]

Thanks for the reply, with the analog meter do you count the time the needle move? Also where do you connect the negative and positive connections? Sorry for so many question but the Ford dealer charge 90$ Canadian, each time they connect you car to the computer!
I am presently have a lot of problem with check engine light of my wife's car a 1996 Ford Contour, it was connected to the dealer computer 3 times!
Regards Claude R.

[FestivaBiker1971]

what year is your festy?

[XPB6018]

It's a 1992 automatic. When I start it and for a minute or 2 after driving away the check engine light is lit but then goes of . It only do it when the car is cold. It doesn't affect the driveability .

[FestivaBiker1971]

OK, here's how to run a QuickTest (code retreival). This should be the same for all EFI Festies. The setup begins with the key off. Also turn off all accessories (radio, a/c, lights, heater).

Find the two test connectors. They are both to the outside (driver's) of the master cylinder. One will be a single pin connector with a yellow/green wire, and the other is a 6 pin with three wires; yel/wht, yel/blk, blu/grn. Get an analog voltmeter, set to a range between 12 and 20 volts, and connect the black lead to battery ground. Connect the red lead to the yel/wht wire (SelfTestOut). Use a jumper wire to connect the single yel/grn wire (SelfTestIn) to ground. You are now ready to test.

Key On Engine Off Test (KOEO)
Turn the key on and watch the meter. The code can be a single or double digit, depending on the fault. Watch and count the meter sweeps. Its not important to watch the meter imediately, the codes repeat as long as STI is grounded. There will be a short pause between digits if the code is double digit, then a long pause between codes. There will only be long pauses between single digit codes. Short pause is about 2sec, long pause is about 4sec. Pulses are 1.6sec long. A reading of sweep-sweep-long pause-sweep-sweep- long pause is a repeating code 2. There is no code 22 to prevent confusion. A reading of sweep-short pause-sweep-sweep-long pause-sweep-short pause-sweep-sweep is a repeating code 12. After about 1990, MECS (MazdaEngineControlSystem) added a 'zero' before the single digit codes, represented by 10 sweeps.

Key On Engine Running Test (KOER)
Disconnect the STI wire from ground, then start and run the engine till warm. Since your concern seems to happen cold, try it cold, but understand you may get an unwarranted coolant temp code. After the engine is running and warm, ground the STI wire, shut engine off then restart. Momentarily disconnect then reconnect the STI wire to ground. ECU should now output any running codes.

Post what codes you get, and I'll give you a breakdown. This info is also available in the Haynes and Chilton manuals.