I plan to remedy that this spring. One of my projects is to install the B-Quiet (http://www.b-quiet.com/) product I picked up last year, along with some firewall insulation from the same company and the replacement carpet I have sitting in the garage. I'll also be installing the A/C that's been on the shelf for over a year!
Hopefully that will keep things warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer. One of the things we have to deal with here is the wide variation in temperatures... typically from -35°C(-31°F) in the winter to +35°C(95°F) in the summer.
Yup, its worth it. I did that and more. I did the b-quiet (2 rolls) plus I stuffed insulation in all the hollows, plus I layered the roof and floor with foil covered fiberglass insulation stuff... plus a few cans of expanding foam here and there... and some jute under the carpet. Go the extra mile. Its well worth spending the extra $40 or so on assorted insulation while you have your interior out. (kills a ton of noise too)
On my car, with either with the stock or BP engine, it takes about the same time before the needle starts moving. But when I get rolling, the BP tends to keep more heat than the B3. Last winter, with my B3, I could get to work (20 minute drive) with the windows still iced up, and the air would start to warm up when I got to my job's parking.
The left lane? Are you crazy!!! I never drive in the left lane...It's full of freaks driving the wrong way and charging right at you!!!
On my car, with either with the stock or BP engine, it takes about the same time before the needle starts moving. But when I get rolling, the BP tends to keep more heat than the B3. Last winter, with my B3, I could get to work (20 minute drive) with the windows still iced up, and the air would start to warm up when I got to my job's parking.
You might want to look at your thermostat and/or heater core. Even when its really cold here I get hot air in 5 minutes
Well, I think the t-stat was bad on the B3, but couldn't care less now since it's out of the car. The heater core has also been replaced. With the BP, the temp needle usually starts moving after around 5 minutes after start-up, either at idle or rolling. And I was talking about really cold days. Otherwise, putting your hand over the vents last fall could almost burn your hand from the amount of heat that came through. I don't think anything's wrong, it's just that in the last few weeks we had some extreme cold, and even with a BP, the Festy's rad still does a pretty good job to keep the engine cool. It's still way better than the B3 though.
The left lane? Are you crazy!!! I never drive in the left lane...It's full of freaks driving the wrong way and charging right at you!!!
check out the sticky about heat at the top of the repair section....
it's all in the t-stat!!! i just put the mazda oem t-stat in and now it takes 5 minutes and my needle is 1/2 inch above the C.... before, my needle NEVER moved... unless i was idle for 15 minutes.
-"Hairlipstiva" 1991 GL 5spd (swapped from an auto), rolling on Enkei 14x6 +38 with 195/45/14 Toyo's, Jensen MP5720 CD deck, tach install, LED strip in cluster, down position rear wiper, FMS springs, Gabriel shocks on 4 corners, Acura Integra short shifter
-Escort GT 91 donor car with BP, G5M-R tranny to be dropped in the little guy...
-Aspire brake swap COMPLETE! https://www.wunderground.com/persona...?ID=KOKOWASS38
Thanks Guys - Seems that these cars do take a while to heat up, so I guess I'm O.K. (may just pull it out in the spring to make sure)
Thanks Again - Royce
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