Broke bleeder

[Jasin]

Any chance/method of repairing one of these in a caliper? Broke off bleeder screw down in the caliper body. Let me know if anyone has had success with this. Thanks.

[hawkdoc60]

The only thing I could recommend would be to use a screw extractor and tap it as far into the bleeder as you can with a small hammer and then try to back it out. If that doesn't work, you could drill it out and rethread it and then try and put a new bleeder in. If all else fails, you may have to find another caliper.

[Jasin]

Already tried that, no way its coming out, was gonna drill and retap if possible, then pop out the piston and clean out the caliper

[hawkdoc60]

That would be the best way to try and fix it. Be careful when doing it.

[stefan]

Just replace the calipers. They probably need replacing anyway.

edit, $26ea on rockauto

[Pu241]

stefan beat me to it!
I try and replace my calipers every 100K miles or so!
You often times can get loaded calipers for $50 each ($100 for a pair) plus core or core charge!
Depending upon how many miles you have on them, might want to consider replacement.

[Jasin]

They were for Ford for Life, I do(would do) Aspire swaps in all my Festy's.

[WmWatt]

One of my front bleeders broke. The tap out thing broke too. It's still in there. I ground it down flat with a small wheel on my drill and left it. I bled the brake from the hose connection when I replaced all the brake lines. The fluid in the claiper itself is not leaking so the brakes are fine. One day I'll replace the caliper but for now it's okay like it is.

[Jasin]

Ya, I started to use the extractor but from experience I knew/ could feel it was gonna brake off, I'll work on it later this week and see what happens- drill it out and try and retap

[jglutz]

I have successfully removed broken bleeders many times....however....it takes the following:

A good center drill, carbide
A good set of drills, striaght flute carbide.
Drill with increasing the drill size to fit the largest extractor possible.
A high quality extractor.
A steady hand.
Lots of patienance.
And some heat.

[Jasin]

Yup, like I said I tried, and I'm pretty good, but this was a bad one.
I noticed the bleeder hole was off center too, is that normal? It was way rusted so I wonder if it was just ate away, let me know if you know for sure, I am thinking maybe that's the way they are all designed, I never looked before I guess....so when I drilled/extracted I was not in the center, hardly any meat on the one side, I knew it was gonna be a [edited for content]. I have broken bleeder screws off in the past, but always just bought new wheel cylinders or calipers.
I am originally from Iowa so I know how to work with rust. Another good thing is to use a catalyst(PB blaster) and compressed air. Force the juice in the hole, just put your gloved hand over it when you blow.
And don't use WD 40.

[elcamino1]

I'm a old school mechanic so I belive in trying to fix,repair or rebuilding before replacing,but as cheap as those calipers are I would just replace it!

[WmWatt]

I have successfully removed a bleeder bolt (nipple?) at the workbench with heat. However it took a few iterations, ie heat the bolt, turn slowly and carefully for about 3 seconds until it freezes again, reheat and repeat. I broke the top off trying to continue to turn after it cooled a bit and stopped turning. By reheating about three times I got it off without further damage. There is enough left to be useable.