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**GenevaDirt** · 01-07-2009, 02:01 PM

need to take a look and make sure the calipers can slide freely without binding. Then you need to bleed the brakes. Should take care of the problem.

**jglutz** · 01-07-2009, 05:55 PM

^^ Good start!

Believe it or not...the source of the problem could be in the master cylinder, bias block or a rear drum. The front brake opposite the pull may be functional but is not recieving adequate flow/pressure because of a defect in the master cylinder, bias block or a leak in the diagonal rear break.

Most likely GenevaDirt nailed it!

**ejp2fast** · 01-08-2009, 10:37 AM

thanks, guys... i'll take a look at them soon..

**ejp2fast** · 02-20-2009, 03:56 PM

last night i took off both wheels to look at it... (ends up I am totally missing my drivers side "W"shaped anti-rattle spring) i took my C-clamp and pushed the wheel cylinder in to take both pads out... everything looked fine.. put it all back together (i didn't bleed them though) and pumped the brakes, and the wheel cylinders when back up against the pads fine.... so my right caliper isn't binding.... seems free. I still have this problem so i think its a Master cylinder ..

plus i did some extensive brake searching, and i think it may be the MC.. but then my question is, why is only there pressure in the left line and not the right? are there 2 "systems" off of the MC, LF and LR and RF, and RR?

**Damkid** · 02-20-2009, 04:00 PM

i've had a total of 3 MC's go bad on me on my green car, it could very well be causing your problem if theres no leaks and the caliper moves freely

**ejp2fast** · 02-20-2009, 04:01 PM

hmmmm so the MC's are prone for failure.. easy to replace? would you recommend new, reman, or Junkyard?

**Damkid** · 02-20-2009, 04:06 PM

Originally posted by ejp2fast View Post

hmmmm so the MC's are prone for failure.. easy to replace? would you recommend new, reman, or Junkyard?

well i think i went through so many because i put used ones back on

IF you decide to replace it i would recomend new

**Pu241** · 02-20-2009, 04:09 PM

Me thinks we maybe jumping the gun here!
You said so your self, that this was an intermittent problem.
the caliper didn't bind in your single test.
That doesn't mean that it isn't the source of you problem.
Just that that time it didn't occur.
Hate for you to do a MC swap and still have the issue.
How many miles on the festiva.
I commonly replace the calipers every 100K miles along with the flex hoses.
I have never needed to replace a MC, yet!
Just an observation.

**ejp2fast** · 02-20-2009, 04:12 PM

I plan on doing both side front hoses....thats for sure. both my calipers don't seem to be binding.. as in when i C-clamp them inward, i apply brake and they go out... how else to see if its a caliper?

**Ogrestiva** · 02-20-2009, 04:15 PM

Before replacing anything I would try bleeding the breaks, you would be surprised at how much this can help. Then check the calipers, then the M.C..

**Mike McKown** · 02-20-2009, 04:50 PM

You checked the right front caliper and you said it looked and functioned fine. What about the left caliper? If it's sticking, it can give you your symptoms. So can a deteriorating brake flex hose on that left front wheel.

Pull the left front wheel and watch the brake action while somebody strokes the pedal. Also note if the caliper is retracting and not dragging. If it is, you could have a stuck caliper or bad hose. You can check for a defective hose by loosening the brake line before the flex hose. If you get a pressure release, you have a bad hose.

**lessersivad** · 02-20-2009, 06:04 PM

Originally posted by ejp2fast View Post

I tried searching but nothing fits my problem. Only occasionally, when i go to stop after driving more than stop and go traffic, when i depress the pedal it feels spongy and depresses closer to the floor and pulls right...
so when this happens i immediately let up on the pedal and press again, this time NO pull and the brakes aren't spongy (firm) and pedal depresses where it should.. and i stop OK.

Here is what I am thinking could be the problem: my Left brake line is constricted, so when i go to brake just the Right side is engaging... therefore pulling right. then when i go to let up on the pedal, pressure has builded in the system and therefore the 2nd pedal press all is good, no pulling, both calipers are engaging..

when in traffic or in town when braking occurs a couple times a minute, there is no problems...
its when i drive on the freeway or longer distances and go to brake for the 1st time... that i get the pull to the right and spongy feeling..this indicates that the pressure has time to decrease in the system.

anybody have any other thoughts on the culprit of this?

Well I'm gonna throw my opinion in and say to check the REAR brakes. The reason I'm suggesting this is because the rears are drum. After driving for an extended time without using the brakes the shoes will have had plenty of time to retract the wheel cylinder on the left rear wheel to cause the pedal to be spongy upon the first stroke of the pedal. That first stroke has pushed the wheel cylinder pistons out and shoes closer to the drum to make contact on the second stroke. If the left rear brake is out of adjustment or the shoes are wore down more than the right rear then the right is grabbing before the left on the first stroke then by the second stroke the left is already out to the drum so you have no spongy pedal and the car stops straight. I hope this makes sense.

**Mike McKown** · 02-20-2009, 06:36 PM

Originally posted by lessersivad View Post

Well I'm gonna throw my opinion in and say to check the REAR brakes. The reason I'm suggesting this is because the rears are drum. After driving for an extended time without using the brakes the shoes will have had plenty of time to retract the wheel cylinder on the left rear wheel to cause the pedal to be spongy upon the first stroke of the pedal. That first stroke has pushed the wheel cylinder pistons out and shoes closer to the drum to make contact on the second stroke. If the left rear brake is out of adjustment or the shoes are wore down more than the right rear then the right is grabbing before the left on the first stroke then by the second stroke the left is already out to the drum so you have no spongy pedal and the car stops straight. I hope this makes sense.

Master cylinders set up for drum brakes, even front disc, rear drum, usually have a residual pressure check valve in the master cylinder bore that feeds the drums to maintain a low, constant pressure against the shoes in the drums. This is to prevent exactly what you're describing. It looks like an inverted cup with holes in it and a rubber flapper over the holes for the check valve.

Some designs have them plumbed into the system separate from the master cylinder.

**lessersivad** · 02-20-2009, 07:44 PM

Originally posted by Mike McKown View Post

Master cylinders set up for drum brakes, even front disc, rear drum, usually have a residual pressure check valve in the master cylinder bore that feeds the drums to maintain a low, constant pressure against the shoes in the drums. This is to prevent exactly what you're describing. It looks like an inverted cup with holes in it and a rubber flapper over the holes for the check valve.

Some designs have them plumbed into the system separate from the master cylinder.

Well that makes sense. All I know is that I've had vehicles with the above problem of pulling to one side or the other, both disc/drum and 4 wheel drum, also single and dual M/C, and have had the rear brakes be the culprit. It wouldn't hurt to check the rears but I'm not saying absolutely that it's the problem.

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When braking, car pulls right

When braking, car pulls right

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