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  • When braking, car pulls right

    I tried searching but nothing fits my problem. Only occasionally, when i go to stop after driving more than stop and go traffic, when i depress the pedal it feels spongy and depresses closer to the floor and pulls right...
    so when this happens i immediately let up on the pedal and press again, this time NO pull and the brakes aren't spongy (firm) and pedal depresses where it should.. and i stop OK.

    Here is what I am thinking could be the problem: my Left brake line is constricted, so when i go to brake just the Right side is engaging... therefore pulling right. then when i go to let up on the pedal, pressure has builded in the system and therefore the 2nd pedal press all is good, no pulling, both calipers are engaging..

    when in traffic or in town when braking occurs a couple times a minute, there is no problems...
    its when i drive on the freeway or longer distances and go to brake for the 1st time... that i get the pull to the right and spongy feeling..this indicates that the pressure has time to decrease in the system.

    anybody have any other thoughts on the culprit of this?

    -"Hairlipstiva" 1991 GL 5spd (swapped from an auto), rolling on Enkei 14x6 +38 with 195/45/14 Toyo's, Jensen MP5720 CD deck, tach install, LED strip in cluster, down position rear wiper, FMS springs, Gabriel shocks on 4 corners, Acura Integra short shifter
    -Escort GT 91 donor car with BP, G5M-R tranny to be dropped in the little guy...
    -Aspire brake swap COMPLETE!
    https://www.wunderground.com/persona...?ID=KOKOWASS38

  • #2
    need to take a look and make sure the calipers can slide freely without binding. Then you need to bleed the brakes. Should take care of the problem.
    "FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
    89L Silver EFI auto
    91GL Green Auto DD
    There ain't no rest for the wicked
    until we close our eyes for good.
    I will sleep when I die!
    I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!

    Comment


    • #3
      ^^ Good start!

      Believe it or not...the source of the problem could be in the master cylinder, bias block or a rear drum. The front brake opposite the pull may be functional but is not recieving adequate flow/pressure because of a defect in the master cylinder, bias block or a leak in the diagonal rear break.

      Most likely GenevaDirt nailed it!
      Joe Lutz

      The SKATE ..... 1992L 5spd
      The Greatest Purchase I Ever Made

      Comment


      • #4
        thanks, guys... i'll take a look at them soon..

        -"Hairlipstiva" 1991 GL 5spd (swapped from an auto), rolling on Enkei 14x6 +38 with 195/45/14 Toyo's, Jensen MP5720 CD deck, tach install, LED strip in cluster, down position rear wiper, FMS springs, Gabriel shocks on 4 corners, Acura Integra short shifter
        -Escort GT 91 donor car with BP, G5M-R tranny to be dropped in the little guy...
        -Aspire brake swap COMPLETE!
        https://www.wunderground.com/persona...?ID=KOKOWASS38

        Comment


        • #5
          last night i took off both wheels to look at it... (ends up I am totally missing my drivers side "W"shaped anti-rattle spring) i took my C-clamp and pushed the wheel cylinder in to take both pads out... everything looked fine.. put it all back together (i didn't bleed them though) and pumped the brakes, and the wheel cylinders when back up against the pads fine.... so my right caliper isn't binding.... seems free. I still have this problem so i think its a Master cylinder ..

          plus i did some extensive brake searching, and i think it may be the MC.. but then my question is, why is only there pressure in the left line and not the right? are there 2 "systems" off of the MC, LF and LR and RF, and RR?
          Last edited by ejp2fast; 02-20-2009, 04:00 PM.

          -"Hairlipstiva" 1991 GL 5spd (swapped from an auto), rolling on Enkei 14x6 +38 with 195/45/14 Toyo's, Jensen MP5720 CD deck, tach install, LED strip in cluster, down position rear wiper, FMS springs, Gabriel shocks on 4 corners, Acura Integra short shifter
          -Escort GT 91 donor car with BP, G5M-R tranny to be dropped in the little guy...
          -Aspire brake swap COMPLETE!
          https://www.wunderground.com/persona...?ID=KOKOWASS38

          Comment


          • #6
            i've had a total of 3 MC's go bad on me on my green car, it could very well be causing your problem if theres no leaks and the caliper moves freely

            1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
            1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
            2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor

            1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)

            If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?

            Comment


            • #7
              hmmmm so the MC's are prone for failure.. easy to replace? would you recommend new, reman, or Junkyard?

              -"Hairlipstiva" 1991 GL 5spd (swapped from an auto), rolling on Enkei 14x6 +38 with 195/45/14 Toyo's, Jensen MP5720 CD deck, tach install, LED strip in cluster, down position rear wiper, FMS springs, Gabriel shocks on 4 corners, Acura Integra short shifter
              -Escort GT 91 donor car with BP, G5M-R tranny to be dropped in the little guy...
              -Aspire brake swap COMPLETE!
              https://www.wunderground.com/persona...?ID=KOKOWASS38

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by ejp2fast View Post
                hmmmm so the MC's are prone for failure.. easy to replace? would you recommend new, reman, or Junkyard?
                well i think i went through so many because i put used ones back on

                IF you decide to replace it i would recomend new

                1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
                1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
                2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor

                1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)

                If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?

                Comment


                • #9
                  Me thinks we maybe jumping the gun here!
                  You said so your self, that this was an intermittent problem.
                  the caliper didn't bind in your single test.
                  That doesn't mean that it isn't the source of you problem.
                  Just that that time it didn't occur.
                  Hate for you to do a MC swap and still have the issue.
                  How many miles on the festiva.
                  I commonly replace the calipers every 100K miles along with the flex hoses.
                  I have never needed to replace a MC, yet!
                  Just an observation.
                  '93 Blue 5spd 230K(down for clutch and overall maintanence)
                  '93 White B6 swap thanks to Skeeters Keeper
                  '92 Aqua parts Car
                  '93 Turquoise 5spd 137K
                  '90 White LX Thanks to FB71

                  "Your God of repentance will not save you.
                  Your holy ghost will not save you.
                  Your God plutonium will not save you.
                  In fact...
                  ...You will not be saved!"

                  Prince of Darkness -1987

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I plan on doing both side front hoses....thats for sure. both my calipers don't seem to be binding.. as in when i C-clamp them inward, i apply brake and they go out... how else to see if its a caliper?

                    -"Hairlipstiva" 1991 GL 5spd (swapped from an auto), rolling on Enkei 14x6 +38 with 195/45/14 Toyo's, Jensen MP5720 CD deck, tach install, LED strip in cluster, down position rear wiper, FMS springs, Gabriel shocks on 4 corners, Acura Integra short shifter
                    -Escort GT 91 donor car with BP, G5M-R tranny to be dropped in the little guy...
                    -Aspire brake swap COMPLETE!
                    https://www.wunderground.com/persona...?ID=KOKOWASS38

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Before replacing anything I would try bleeding the breaks, you would be surprised at how much this can help. Then check the calipers, then the M.C..
                      89' Maroon and black Festiva LX with a sunroof. :alien:

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        You checked the right front caliper and you said it looked and functioned fine. What about the left caliper? If it's sticking, it can give you your symptoms. So can a deteriorating brake flex hose on that left front wheel.

                        Pull the left front wheel and watch the brake action while somebody strokes the pedal. Also note if the caliper is retracting and not dragging. If it is, you could have a stuck caliper or bad hose. You can check for a defective hose by loosening the brake line before the flex hose. If you get a pressure release, you have a bad hose.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by ejp2fast View Post
                          I tried searching but nothing fits my problem. Only occasionally, when i go to stop after driving more than stop and go traffic, when i depress the pedal it feels spongy and depresses closer to the floor and pulls right...
                          so when this happens i immediately let up on the pedal and press again, this time NO pull and the brakes aren't spongy (firm) and pedal depresses where it should.. and i stop OK.

                          Here is what I am thinking could be the problem: my Left brake line is constricted, so when i go to brake just the Right side is engaging... therefore pulling right. then when i go to let up on the pedal, pressure has builded in the system and therefore the 2nd pedal press all is good, no pulling, both calipers are engaging..

                          when in traffic or in town when braking occurs a couple times a minute, there is no problems...
                          its when i drive on the freeway or longer distances and go to brake for the 1st time... that i get the pull to the right and spongy feeling..this indicates that the pressure has time to decrease in the system.

                          anybody have any other thoughts on the culprit of this?
                          Well I'm gonna throw my opinion in and say to check the REAR brakes. The reason I'm suggesting this is because the rears are drum. After driving for an extended time without using the brakes the shoes will have had plenty of time to retract the wheel cylinder on the left rear wheel to cause the pedal to be spongy upon the first stroke of the pedal. That first stroke has pushed the wheel cylinder pistons out and shoes closer to the drum to make contact on the second stroke. If the left rear brake is out of adjustment or the shoes are wore down more than the right rear then the right is grabbing before the left on the first stroke then by the second stroke the left is already out to the drum so you have no spongy pedal and the car stops straight. I hope this makes sense.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by lessersivad View Post
                            Well I'm gonna throw my opinion in and say to check the REAR brakes. The reason I'm suggesting this is because the rears are drum. After driving for an extended time without using the brakes the shoes will have had plenty of time to retract the wheel cylinder on the left rear wheel to cause the pedal to be spongy upon the first stroke of the pedal. That first stroke has pushed the wheel cylinder pistons out and shoes closer to the drum to make contact on the second stroke. If the left rear brake is out of adjustment or the shoes are wore down more than the right rear then the right is grabbing before the left on the first stroke then by the second stroke the left is already out to the drum so you have no spongy pedal and the car stops straight. I hope this makes sense.

                            Master cylinders set up for drum brakes, even front disc, rear drum, usually have a residual pressure check valve in the master cylinder bore that feeds the drums to maintain a low, constant pressure against the shoes in the drums. This is to prevent exactly what you're describing. It looks like an inverted cup with holes in it and a rubber flapper over the holes for the check valve.

                            Some designs have them plumbed into the system separate from the master cylinder.
                            Last edited by Mike McKown; 02-20-2009, 06:39 PM.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Mike McKown View Post
                              Master cylinders set up for drum brakes, even front disc, rear drum, usually have a residual pressure check valve in the master cylinder bore that feeds the drums to maintain a low, constant pressure against the shoes in the drums. This is to prevent exactly what you're describing. It looks like an inverted cup with holes in it and a rubber flapper over the holes for the check valve.

                              Some designs have them plumbed into the system separate from the master cylinder.
                              Well that makes sense. All I know is that I've had vehicles with the above problem of pulling to one side or the other, both disc/drum and 4 wheel drum, also single and dual M/C, and have had the rear brakes be the culprit. It wouldn't hurt to check the rears but I'm not saying absolutely that it's the problem.

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