fixed my hla problem

[ericsmith32]

I just dropped a new motor in my aspire. Well not new it has 107k on it. I put Mobil Drive Clean 5w-30 in it to begin with, figured it would clean it out. Well ever since reviving it i've had a metallic rapping, I think a hla was half way stuck. I know it wasn't completely collapsed, i've heard that sound before. Finally got tired of it and changed it out for Havoline 5w-20. After 50 miles the sound has completely went away. I don't know if it was the moly or weight that helped. I can defiantely tell a difference in drivability from before. I going to observe gas mileage and consumption and I'll probably stay with this grade probably through-out the winter. I may go to 5w-30 in the hot summer.

[darkdan]

5w20.....don't get me started.

[gomer]

Synthetic loosens up dirt, conventional oil keeps it in suspension so the filter can trap it...

[Infinitrium]

Synthetic loosens up dirt, conventional oil keeps it in suspension so the filter can trap it...

People who don't know what they're talking about really anger me..

[darkdan]

Well..............

Synthetic oils typically contain esters. Some esters are pretty decent cleaners.

Esters are polar by nature and thus attracted to metal and the deposits on the metal.

When conventional oil is reintroduced it can wash away the layer of esters and the deposits.

BUT!

Synthetics also contain detergent/dispersant packages. As the esters clean (if cleaning esters are present anyways) the grime will be carried away in suspension by the D/D additives.

So it's true what he said, but it's also true that the synthetic will do it too.

However, the original poster didn't say diddly about using a synthetic oil so I thought it was a non-issue.

[Infinitrium]

Well..............



Synthetics also contain detergent/dispersant packages. As the esters clean (if cleaning esters are present anyways) the grime will be carried away in suspension by the D/D additives.

Dino oils contain detergents and dispersive additives, don't they?

[gomer]

"Dino oils" aren't Dino at all ,, The entire cosmos contains incalculable amounts of methane ,,, this condensed among other debris to create the planets ,,, you aren't really putting a sabre toothed tiger in your tank (or a brontosaurus in your crankcase) no matter what Exxon says in their ads ... there is enough oil (condensed methane from when the planet was formed , whose chemical structure was modified by heat , pressure and time) trapped in the Earths crust to last virtually forever... can we just call them "conventional" ...

[darkdan]

Why not eliminate all slang while we're at it? My 8th English teacher would be thrilled.

Yes, conventional oils do contain d/d.

When I said, "Synthetics also contain detergent/dispersant packages" it does make it sound like I was talking about "what else" synthetics contain instead of "Just like conventional oils synthetics also contain".

[ericsmith32]

Sometimes humans amuse me. I'm about to start joining forums to bring up topics just see which way they go just for pure amusement. As far as synthehic vs dino goes, how does the 0w-30 Mobil 1 compare to 5w-20 Havoline, besides the racket Mobil 1 causes.

[gomer]

how does the 0w-30 Mobil 1 compare to 5w-20 Havoline, besides the racket Mobil 1 causes.

Now you're going to stir something up....

For the record I have nothing against using synthetics as long as the engine is ready for it ,,, ie. not overly dirty or with worn oil seals... some oils work better for some cars ,,,my gas mercedes really likes 15-40 diesel oil...

[darkdan]

Obviously the 0w30 Mobil1 is a full PAO (group IV) synthetic and the 5w20 is a group II/group III blend.

So the Mobil1 will allow for longer drain intervals and offer superior cold weather starting.

Not to mention the 0w30 has a higher viscosity (and one that is recommended in these engines) and the 5w20 has a lower viscosity and could lead to excessive bearing wear....."could"



Have you tried synthetic 15w40? In the winter (if you live somewhere cold) there are several really good 5w40s now with diesel additive packages.

[ericsmith32]

Okay the 5w-20 at 100 is 8.3 cst and the 0w-30 is 10.3. Those are the GF4 numbers and the oil I used was GF3. At the 3k mark i'll probably add a quart of 10w-30. Anything in the 40wt is to heavy for me in this small of a engine. I don't see how our engines could be hard on oil with the roller rocker/cam setup. If it was a pushrod different story. You know there comes to certain point when you know to much and you can't decide on what you want to do. I've seen festivas up to 200k on 10w-30,20w-50, 15w-40, 5w-30 you name it so is there really any difference on what I use? The 20 wt isn't the specifed viscosity but according to my book neither is anything over 10w-30 and under 5w-30. Its like a double edge sword, the heavier the oil the slower it gets moving when cold but allows more le-way when engine starts to wear, the thinner the faster it gets going but doesn't allow much le-way. There are exceptions though. I'm tempted to find the cheapest house brand, as long as it has detergents, and change er every 3k. I'll think have another 6months to use up my stash so i'll think about then.

[darkdan]

0w, 5w, 10w, 15w, 20w....doesn't matter in temps above freezing.

At freezing 0w, 5w, and 10w flow adequately. Below freezing 0w and 5w.

So a 20w50 and a 0w30 flow well enough at room temps that it doesn't matter and neither will give you more or less "start-up" wear.

Our motors aren't hard on oil at all (except fuel dillution problems).

But there's this thing called HTHS (high temp high shear). Basically it simulates what happens to the oil in the bearings on the down stroke.

Most 5w20s have a HTHS viscosity of 2.6 or lower. That's just not high enough for me. I'd rather have 3.0 or more.

Call me crazy, but I'm perfectly willing to spend $28 on an oil change every 10,000 miles.

[Kindred]

I checked out the info on Amsoil. I am convinced. Dan, how much would you charge to ship a few quarts and a bypass system my way?

[darkdan]

Depends on which oil you want.

A bypass system is roughly $250 or so. It retails for about $300+, but I sell everything at cost. I have two day jobs to actually make money.

Personally, I use the 5w30 ASL. It's the most popular middle grade oil AMSOIL sells. I was switching between 10w30 ATM and 5w30 ASL during the winter, but I'm trying to reduce how many quarts of oil I keep on the shelf. =) At one point I had 5 different kinds of AMSOIL......

Don't believe the hype about the 25k drain intervals. It takes special circumstances for that to be feasable. However, my poor aspire with 140k+ miles on it that was abused for years by an old lady that let the headgasket go beyond bad can still manage 10k intervals easily (soon to be 12k). With a bypass 15k to 20k might be possible.