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  • Head Gasket Replacement

    I'm going to look at a 91 Festiva that the owner says needs a new head gasket. What does changing one of these entail? What other parts are needed, if any? I know on some engines, you need new head bolts. Is this the case here?

    Thanks in advance for any help!

  • #2
    Never had to replace one on a Festiva but have done several others. Should be a piece of cake on a Festy since everything is out in the open and easy to access. Single cam shaft makes things easier as well. You'll want to replace the timing belt since you'll have it all apart, as well as the valve cover gasket.

    Not sure on the head bolts. On some vehicles the head bolts are tightened past the yield point of the steel, meaning that they stretch to the point to where if you remove them, they wouldn't return to their original length. Pick up a manual and it will tell you whether or not you need new bolts(someone else here will most likely know but you'll want one anyway) and will walk you through the process.

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    • #3
      Just had my head gasket done today. My radiator had oil in it which is how I noticed. I had my mechanic do it so I don't know how much work it is but I do know it took him the better part of the day. A couple of tough rusty bolts, new radiator and hoses, checked the timing belt and water pump.
      In anticipation of some responses, I have no garage and work 6 12hr days so a mechanic was the only answer for me. Definitely not cheap but I saw what he did (in mid-job) and I'm not that mechanically inclined or have the time or patience.
      If the festy is good otherwise, you should buy it. 35 mpg or better after 13 years for me. I'm driving it until 300K or it falls apart.

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      • #4
        If you can handle a few rusted bolts and have a torque wrench, changing your own head gasket is a piece of cake. Just remove the intake and distributor, unbolt the downpipe, and remove all connected wiring and vacuum/coolant/fuel lines (make sure you mark them!). Take off the valve cover, remove the rocker arms, and unbolt the head. Remove the head with the intake/exhaust manifold still attached (it's easier this way). Remove the manifolds, pull out the cams, and take your head to the machine shop. Installation is the reverse of removal. You can change it yourself for under $200, whereas a shop will likely charge you close to a thousand.

        Also, if your head gasket is bad, you'll want to change your O2 sensor as well. All of the coolant running through the engine will toast it.
        GT

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        • #5
          Don't have much to add - you got good advice. Not a terribly difficult job - just be patient. The hardest thing I encountered was removing the old gasket. You need to scrape like crazy if it's stuck. After the scraping, I used 120 grit sandpaper on a block to clean up the block. If you're really serious, you might take your head to a machine shop and get it trued. *Probably* not necessary though, unless it is noticeably warped.
          jeff

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          • #6
            I think I'll go ahead and buy the car. I'm not a mechanic, so if I get stuck replacing the head gasket, I'll just go and stay at a Holiday In Express.

            Bryan

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            • #7
              Unless you have a micrometer handy and know how to use it, you're going to want to take the head to a shop to have it machined. Heads are gound down in measurements of 1/1000's of an inch, much smaller than the human eye (or fingers) can pick up. Getting the head tanked and machined is usually cheap -- anywhere between $30 and $60 depending on the shop. If you really want to go crazy, you can have them magnaflux it for cracks, though that probably isn't necessary. I don't know how much that runs as I've never had it done, but I imagine it's somewhere in the $80+ range.
              GT

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