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  • Question on alignment...

    I'm trying to get my front end aligned DIY-style. Two reasons for that: 1 - I am broke, 2 - It affords me an opportunity to learn more about my car.

    I already know my camber is out of whack, and have camber wedges on order.

    My question is about the "String-method" for setting toe. I understand the concept, its pretty simple. But I am still unclear on one thing: Do you set the toe loaded or unloaded? In other words, should I jack the car up first, or just have it parked on level pavement?

    Thanks for any help -- I'd love to get this done today while I have some good weather!

  • #2
    unloaded. jack the car up to change toe. 1/8 inch toe in.
    ---------------------------------------------------
    The Jester - Midwest Festiva Inc., Missouri Chapter
    ---------------------------------------------------
    BUILD'EM CHEAP, RUN'EM HARD, REPAIR'EM DAILY!


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    • #3
      Thanks, buddy.

      I will do that first thing in the AM.

      Comment


      • #4
        You do not want to measure your toe with the suspension unloaded, when the weight of the vehicle is lifted the tires will toe out in the front.
        I am assuming that you mean suspension hanging when refering to unloaded.
        Find a flat surface, roll/drive the car in a straight line and stop, then measure the toe.
        You want the vehicle to have the full weight on the suspension while measuring or you will get a very bad end result.

        here is a link to a thread that has a good how to on the second page.

        http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...ring+alignment
        Last edited by econoaddict; 02-25-2009, 10:18 PM.
        Hotrod Forums Directory * D&D Discbrakes 61-67 Econoline Conversions
        1988 Festy - white 5spd 1.3 * 1992 Festy - red 5spd 1.3 * 1963 Econoline 5 window pu * 1993 Dodge W250 5.9 Cummings * 94 Mustang

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        • #5
          Damn. THats why I was confused about the procedure -- people have different opinions. How do the pros do it if I was to take it to the shop?

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          • #6
            I have a hunter alignment machine and never ever jack up a car to take measurements.

            Some times you have to jack it up to make an adjustment but then resettle the car before rechecking the measurements.
            Hotrod Forums Directory * D&D Discbrakes 61-67 Econoline Conversions
            1988 Festy - white 5spd 1.3 * 1992 Festy - red 5spd 1.3 * 1963 Econoline 5 window pu * 1993 Dodge W250 5.9 Cummings * 94 Mustang

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            • #7
              Run a google for something like: "DIY string alignment" or "car string alignment"
              you get alot of stuff to look at, mostly the same basic procedures.
              Hotrod Forums Directory * D&D Discbrakes 61-67 Econoline Conversions
              1988 Festy - white 5spd 1.3 * 1992 Festy - red 5spd 1.3 * 1963 Econoline 5 window pu * 1993 Dodge W250 5.9 Cummings * 94 Mustang

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              • #8
                the weight of the car MUST be on the front wheels to set toe properly.
                Jim DeAngelis

                kittens give Morbo gas!!



                Bright Blue 93 GL (1.6 8v, 5spd) (Hula-Baloo)
                Performance Red 94 Aspire SE (Stimpson)

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                • #9
                  i never said to measure while the vehicle was jacked up....You can if you want jack it up when you break loose the tie rod ends to make your adjustments. Just make sure to set it back ont he ground and free roll it 10 feet forward and 10 feet back before taking another measurement.
                  ---------------------------------------------------
                  The Jester - Midwest Festiva Inc., Missouri Chapter
                  ---------------------------------------------------
                  BUILD'EM CHEAP, RUN'EM HARD, REPAIR'EM DAILY!


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                  • #10
                    LOL.....Yeah, I meant when you take the measurements...

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                    • #11
                      I run no toe in, any reason you say 1/8" toe in?
                      ~Nate

                      the keeper of a wonderful lil car, Skeeter.

                      Current cars:
                      91L "Skeeter" 170k, Aspire brakes, G15, BP, Advancedynamics coil overs, etc. My first love.
                      1990 Kawasaki Ninja 250 - my gas saver, 60+mpg - 40k
                      2004 MotoGuzzi Breva - my "longer range" bike - 17k

                      FOTY 2008 winner!

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                      • #12
                        see this DIY alignment thread:
                        Discuss improvements to your Festiva or Aspire in the handling, braking, wheels and tires areas.

                        -"Hairlipstiva" 1991 GL 5spd (swapped from an auto), rolling on Enkei 14x6 +38 with 195/45/14 Toyo's, Jensen MP5720 CD deck, tach install, LED strip in cluster, down position rear wiper, FMS springs, Gabriel shocks on 4 corners, Acura Integra short shifter
                        -Escort GT 91 donor car with BP, G5M-R tranny to be dropped in the little guy...
                        -Aspire brake swap COMPLETE!
                        https://www.wunderground.com/persona...?ID=KOKOWASS38

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                        • #13
                          Quick question (not trying to take over the thread). When I'm driving straight, my steering wheel is pretty far off to the left. Can I fix this just by pulling the steering wheel off and putting it on straight, or is there something wrong under the front somewhere? I just put all new control arms, tie rod ends, bushings etc, but it was off before I did all that.


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                          • #14
                            I am pretty sure you adjust that with the tie rod ends...the ENDS, not the rod. You want to turn one side in x-amount of turns, and then turn the other side out the same amount of turns without allowing the actual rod to turn, until it brings your wheel to where it should be. Make sure to turn the ends in the opposite directions the same number of turns so it doesn't change your alignment.

                            I'm sure someone will correct me if there is a better way. You could do it by removing the steering wheel, but that sounds like more hassle.

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                            • #15
                              ^^it depends..you don't want to just take the steering wheel off to correct your problem, as long as your toe is properly ok... if it is, then yes, you can easily pop off the steering wheel (if its a stock wheel, just pop the "ford" cap off and use a 17mm with extension for the bolt and pull hard and the wheel comes off).. it is splined, so moving it to the right to correct for straightness would be fine... just don't do it to correct for the car pulling one way or the other.

                              -"Hairlipstiva" 1991 GL 5spd (swapped from an auto), rolling on Enkei 14x6 +38 with 195/45/14 Toyo's, Jensen MP5720 CD deck, tach install, LED strip in cluster, down position rear wiper, FMS springs, Gabriel shocks on 4 corners, Acura Integra short shifter
                              -Escort GT 91 donor car with BP, G5M-R tranny to be dropped in the little guy...
                              -Aspire brake swap COMPLETE!
                              https://www.wunderground.com/persona...?ID=KOKOWASS38

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