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  • door seal restore

    Hello all,

    The door seals on my Festiva are well past their prime. They constantly leak when I'm driving over 80 km/h. A friend suggested that I rub them down with vasaline to soften them up. Another person said to use silicone spray. I'm wondering if anyone here has other suggestions or opinions?

    Thanks,
    Nat
    BP powered 91 Festiva L
    -FMS springs, GR2 struts, Toyo T1R 195/45/14 on Swift GT alloys
    -Trunk mounted gel battery
    -Suzuki Swift GT seats, Grant GT steering wheel, auto-locks
    -Blaupunkt Melbourne deck with Bluetooth, sealed single 12" sub

  • #2
    A lot depends on the polymer used to make the seals.
    Both Vaseline and silicone can help recondition the seals if the polymer is accepting of them.
    But initially they can get messy and smug you glass up if you not careful and they may only be very temporary.
    Treating the surface not the bulk of the polymer.
    Does anyone actually know what these seals are made made of?
    To reduce the number of false starts, "rubber" is not a sufficient answer to help solve this problem.
    '93 Blue 5spd 230K(down for clutch and overall maintanence)
    '93 White B6 swap thanks to Skeeters Keeper
    '92 Aqua parts Car
    '93 Turquoise 5spd 137K
    '90 White LX Thanks to FB71

    "Your God of repentance will not save you.
    Your holy ghost will not save you.
    Your God plutonium will not save you.
    In fact...
    ...You will not be saved!"

    Prince of Darkness -1987

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    • #3
      I've had good luck with plain old armour all. When I first got my festiva the seals were all really dry and louder than normal on the highway. A litte bit of armour all rubbed onto them every couple of weeks made a big difference.

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      • #4
        Every couple of weeks? What happens when you stop doing that?
        BP powered 91 Festiva L
        -FMS springs, GR2 struts, Toyo T1R 195/45/14 on Swift GT alloys
        -Trunk mounted gel battery
        -Suzuki Swift GT seats, Grant GT steering wheel, auto-locks
        -Blaupunkt Melbourne deck with Bluetooth, sealed single 12" sub

        Comment


        • #5
          I just did it every couple of weeks until the rubber stopped absorbing the armour all and stayed nice and dark. After that I've barely had to touch them.

          Comment


          • #6
            Festiva Motorsport has new weather stripping.
            Brian
            http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2274977



            93 GL modyfied!!!
            :fish:

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            • #7
              you can also roll the window down and tweek the frame in a little. It helped a great deal on my 91
              "FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
              89L Silver EFI auto
              91GL Green Auto DD
              There ain't no rest for the wicked
              until we close our eyes for good.
              I will sleep when I die!
              I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!

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              • #8
                Originally posted by GenevaDirt View Post
                you can also roll the window down and tweek the frame in a little. It helped a great deal on my 91
                define "tweek"..??? like 4-pound-hammer tweek?

                -"Hairlipstiva" 1991 GL 5spd (swapped from an auto), rolling on Enkei 14x6 +38 with 195/45/14 Toyo's, Jensen MP5720 CD deck, tach install, LED strip in cluster, down position rear wiper, FMS springs, Gabriel shocks on 4 corners, Acura Integra short shifter
                -Escort GT 91 donor car with BP, G5M-R tranny to be dropped in the little guy...
                -Aspire brake swap COMPLETE!
                https://www.wunderground.com/persona...?ID=KOKOWASS38

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by GenevaDirt View Post
                  you can also roll the window down and tweek the frame in a little. It helped a great deal on my 91
                  I've seen that suggestion before and I'm hesitant. I don't want to bring the door out of shape, although I know that the window frame does oscillate pivoting where it meets the bulk of the door because I have paint cracks there.

                  I have also seen those seals on festiva motorsport. They are $75 each! Maybe that is realistic, but my initial reaction is can't I buy this stuff by the length?

                  I am going to try the armour all first and see what happens. Thanks to all!
                  BP powered 91 Festiva L
                  -FMS springs, GR2 struts, Toyo T1R 195/45/14 on Swift GT alloys
                  -Trunk mounted gel battery
                  -Suzuki Swift GT seats, Grant GT steering wheel, auto-locks
                  -Blaupunkt Melbourne deck with Bluetooth, sealed single 12" sub

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by ejp2fast View Post
                    define "tweek"..??? like 4-pound-hammer tweek?
                    like put your knee on the inside of the door and pull the top of the frame toward you a bit and give it a try. You will not really be able to see a differance but you will hear the differance when driving.
                    "FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
                    89L Silver EFI auto
                    91GL Green Auto DD
                    There ain't no rest for the wicked
                    until we close our eyes for good.
                    I will sleep when I die!
                    I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I've pulled my doors in at the top. Didn't help any. I leave the heater control on outside air. When you increase speed to a certain point, you can watch the tops of the doors move in/out, breaking the seal gap to the rubber and causing wind noise.

                      You could probably fix or help your problem if you kept the heater control (center lever) on "re-circulate" instead of "outside air". This will relieve the air pressure that is blowing the tops of the window frames outboard.

                      I didn't really reef the door frames in that far, because that can cause other problems if you overdo it.
                      Last edited by Mike McKown; 03-04-2009, 09:50 PM.

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