Outer Bearings shot again!

[Otakuphill]

Replace both rear bearings Friday because the right rear outer bearing was gone. Drove for about1 day then I noticed my left rear tire was covered in grease. After about 20 min of driving my left bearing was gone. Im gona change again. What happened? The ring behind the inner bearing is fine. Where did the grease come from and what should i do to prevent this from happening again? will replace Sunday.

[Nerd Racing]

always replace your seals and make sure you pack those bearings properly with grease.

Also make sure you replace the outer races as well. They punch out really easily.

[gdawgs]

Did you crank down the axle nut really tight when you put it together? I think many bearings die prematurely because people overthighten them.

[hawkdoc60]

This may sound like a stupid question, but did you put the grease cap back on?

[Otakuphill]

This may sound like a stupid question, but did you put the grease cap back on?

Yea the cap is on.

[jglutz]

Just some advice:

Never mix or match bearings or races. If one part is shot...the entire bearing must be change...inner race....cage...outer race.

Prior to installation...all of the components...including the drum...must be very clean.

When the new races are installed into the hubs....they must be evenly and fully seated.

When ever one bearing component fails...all the bearings on the axle should be changed (general rule for all axle/brake work)

Change the seals if they have been removed...they're very difficult to remove without damaging.

Fully pack the cages with new high temp wheel bearing grease.

On the Festiva drum...fill the entire cavity with new clean grease....when installed....the the spindle will push out the excess.

Install...torque...the sindle nut per the manual.

If the grease ran out of the dust cap....and the cap is not all beat up...the grease probalbly over heated.

[Otakuphill]

what is the torque on the spindle nuts?

[gdawgs]

Per the Haynes manual.

1) Install the washer and spindle nut. Tighten the nut only slightly (no more than 12 ft*lbs)

2) Spin the hub/drum assembly in a forward direction while tightening the spindle nut to approximately 18 - 22 ft*lbs to seat the bearings and remove any grease or burrs which could cause excessive bearing play later.

HERE IS THE REALLY IMPORTANT PART THAT MANY PEOPLE SCREW UP!

3) Loosen the spindle nut 1/4 turn, then using you hand(not a wrench of any kind), tighten the nut until a slight drag is felt(approximately 3-7 in*lbs (NOT FT*LBS!!)

Then install the cotter pin or stake the nut, depending on which type you have. Every one I've ever seen has a stake nut.

If you do this correctly, the rear bearings should last well over 100,000 miles.

[CharlieZ]

At about 25 MPH on a smooth and quiet street, I hear a rhump-rhump sound coming from the rear of the car. Is this a typical sign of impending wheel bearing failure? The bearings were repacked less than 500 miles ago by local garage who replaced my rear brake lines and wheel cyls. Lots of wheel bearing threads indicate this can be a problem area. Better check it, huh?

[Levitan]

Put the nut on, tighten with a torque wrench to 16 ft lbs while spinning the tire. Then do the same to 18, then the same to 21. Back off 1/4 turn, then tighten to 3 ft lbs. Your torque wrench won't go that low so figure a good fart has more torque than 3 ft lbs.

I am not telling you what to do, I'm telling you what I would do because Midwest Festiva Inc takes no responsibility if something mucks up!

[Otakuphill]

All done

Went to Pick your part and got a nice new looking spindle ( on the right ). New seel, new spindle nut, and new bearings. toped it off with allot of grease. Thanks for all the help. Old bearings and spindle on the left.