no fuel no spark

[XK-Hemi]

I have been looking on here for help, but I can't seem to find anything similar to what I have going on. For a while the car (93 GL) would start to die and the check engine light would come on. I would floor the gas and sometimes it would start running, other times it would die, but for the most part start right up. I have changed the ignition module, cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, fuel pump, water pump, timing belt, and the other belts because it was tore apart. Well it will not start anymore and has no spark and no fuel. The coil checks good and the MAF has power going to it. I have a Haynes book, it's not a lot of help. I would like to check the fuel pump relay but not sure where it’s at. Also, how on earth do I know which plug is the STO and STI is? There seems to be 2 or 3 different possibilities. The plug with 6 pins I can find, it’s the single plug I can’t figure out. I see one that’s kinda white with 2 wires on it and I can see 2 more that have just one wire. If I can fix it I will post what I did to fix it so others can find the fix to this problem. Thanks for any help

[GenevaDirt]

Have you checked the fusible links? Mainly the center one. Make sure they are good and the connection points are good. Maybe even switch them to cartridge fuses. Just a thought.

[MONSOON]

Couple of links for you.

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15555

Heres one with a GOOD pic of the cartridges.

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/showpost.php?p=188067&postcount=3

[XK-Hemi]

Thanks for the inputs. I will be sure to check that out today.

[XK-Hemi]

Well I had my hopes up but no luck with the fusible links. I tried to use a jumper wire just to see if it would start. Checked it out by OHMing them out. If and when I get it running I will get rid of those. They are pretty shady. Any other ideas? Thanks

[WmWatt]

Can anyone tell him the colour of the STI wire? It might be in the wiring diagrams in the back of the Haynes manual. My car's a carb'd '89 so I doubt the wire is the same colour.

[mechanicaldj]

Can anyone tell him the colour of the STI wire? It might be in the wiring diagrams in the back of the Haynes manual. My car's a carb'd '89 so I doubt the wire is the same colour.

Yellow and green(stripe)

if you looked at my wiring diagrams sticky (92 FI)

[resuwrecked]

With a check engine light coming on, I'm assuming you have power to the ecu. Check if you are getting power to the fuel pump when you hold the vaf door open. Make sure you have fuel pressure. As far as no spark, the pickup in the dist can take a dump, check for a signal to the coil with a dwell meter, (or if you have a tach does it read cranking speed?) if not then the dist. isnt giving the coil the signal to fire. Check for power at the coil also.

[FestYboy]

pump won't run without cranking signal, i suggest you check under the dust cap in your distro and look for oil/debris. if there is any, it could be fowling the ign signal and therefore no spark OR fuel. clean out with brake clean and let dry, then try to start.

[resuwrecked]

The fuel pump relay is energized when the vaf flapper door opens. There is a dedicated wire going from the vaf to the fp relay. Not sure what color, will pull up a diagram when i get to work

[XK-Hemi]

Thanks. I will look into both when I get a chance. What is the VAF? Is it the door inside the MAF on the intake?

[resuwrecked]

Vaf= vane air flow meter, had a door inside that opens further with increasing airfow. A maf sensor calculates airflow using a heated element. They do the same thing but work in different ways, Mazda didn't start using the maf until '94 in the aspires.

[XK-Hemi]

Ok, pushed on the VAF door and I could hear the fuel pump run. Tried to start it with no luck. Pulled out a spark plug and no fuel. Also checked on the crankshaft position senor (CKP) under the dust cover in the distributor and was clean. Put it back together and tried again and same thing. Checked for power (with a test light) at the coil and there was and checked power on the connector to the CKP and the engine turn over a little (rather creepy since the switch wasn’t on start but was on) when I touched the yellow/blue wire. Put the connector back on and now it starts up like a champ. So I ask myself, WTF!? Is the CKP going out? The yellow blue wire goes to the ECM from the looks on the wiring diagram. The yellow black goes to the injectors and fuel pump relay but it didn’t do anything when it was grounded out. So, do you think it’s an ECM, fuel pump relay, or the CKP sensor going out? Thanks again for all the help.

[FestYboy]

wait for it to mess up again, and then retrace your steps with the test light (and be careful what you're probing as you can easily damage the ECM if you ground out the wrong wire.)

[resuwrecked]

When you tested the dist. connector is sounds like you triggered the coil and made it bump over. If you could hear the pump run before then it means your all good as far as the fp relay. That yellow/black wire is 12v from the main relay out to the self test connector, fp relay, ecu, crank sensor, isc solenoid, canister purge solenoid and injectors. Sounds like a possible break/short between test connector and crank sensor/injectors/canister purge
The main relay gets this 12v from the EGI fuselink. So, if you are running fine now, you either had a bad connection at the distributor and fixed it inadvertently when you plugged it back in, bad yellow/black wire as described above, or the main relay is intermittent. Find some plug in style fuses to replace the fuselinks while your at it, never was a fan of the 'links.