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Engine cam timing and the crankshaft pulley

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  • Engine cam timing and the crankshaft pulley

    Not too long ago I bought a nice '92 ATX off Craig's List in St. Louis. The car has 251000 miles. The engine started and ran good. The distributor was positioned in full static advance allowed by the slot. The engine had no power though and acceleration was 0 to 60 by next Tuesday. I was able to drive it home, 1/3rd Interstate, 2/3rds city streets.
    The previous owner said loss of acceleration happened all of a sudden. Maybe it did, maybe it didn't.

    I've been tinkering with it off and on trying to determine what was up.

    Vacuum testing indicated a valve timing problem. After looking at the marks, I tended to agree something was amiss. I moved the cam pulley one tooth toward advance. Engine operated same as before. Start, run, no power.

    I built a compression leak-down tester and found the cylinders showed some leakage past the rings, the cylinder leakage indications were however, reasonably evenly matched. Actual gauge readings are ambiguous at best, but leakage appears to be about 20% to 25% down from the starting point. Not bad for that kind of mileage.

    The biggest revelation was the position of the TDC mark on the crank pulley in relation to the TDC timing pointer on the lower cover. After determining the "actual mechanical position" of the piston in the cylinder at actual TDC, I could see the factory timing marks on the crank pulley were not consistent with what's in the shop manual.

    The photos show the crank pulley, painted white for visibility, off the engine, and on the engine. The timing marks are identified in the pulley-off pix as 1.-TDC, 2.-10° BTDC , and, 3.-The actual mechanical TDC.

    In the pulley-on pix, these same marks are A.-Factory TDC, B.-Factory 10° BTDC, and 3.- Actual mechanical TDC. WTF?

    I reset the timing belt in accordance with the newly found TDC mark, reset the distributor to mid-way in the slot, reinstalled enough parts to start the engine, and by golly, it started, and revved as I think it should - with some authority.

    Without pulleys and V-belt installed, I wasn't able to drive the car. Nasty rainy day here today but should be able to give a report later. If things work out, I'll re-notch the pulley with a file on the true TDC mark, install a new timing belt etc. and go from there.

    Usually when I post, the thread dies. In this case, any comments, related experiences, or even "theories" will be appreciated. Especially from the "tech guys."

    Charlie Z



  • #2
    Two comments
    1) My pully only has one notch...your full clock wise 1/C...notice it is before the keyway in the pully...advanced.
    2) I had problems with the first time I did a t-belt on my festiva...I had to turn the dist full in one direction to ge the engine ti idle well. I reinstalled the belt one tooth back opposite the way I turned the dist. Every thing fell in place. I've seen it posted here before the upper timing mark is not very accurate.

    I'e said this many times before...whenever changing a timing belt/chain that is in tact...use a paint marker or the like to transfer lines from the belt/chain to the cam and crank sprockets/pullies. Transfer the marks from the old belt to the new belt. Install the new belt alligning the marks....works every time.
    Joe Lutz

    The SKATE ..... 1992L 5spd
    The Greatest Purchase I Ever Made

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    • #3
      When placing the timing belt on you should not use the accessory pulley for guidance. Here is a guide I wrote for realigning the belt. Where i live we see alot of freezing and sometimes water gets in there and freezes on the belt causing it to jump a tooth.

      The Festiva Store
      Specializing in restoration, tuning and custom parts.

      Comment


      • #4
        jglutz,
        You are right on not relying on pulley marks. Best time to determine actual TDC of the engine being worked on is using a dial indicator on the piston top when the head is off the engine. I used a drinking straw in the spark plug hole with many attempts of moving the piston across TDC before I was satisfied. Always rotating the engine in the direction it runs. I was too lazy to make a simple tool for the job. The straw worked fine for my purpose.

        My crank sprocket has no other markings other than the 3 letter looking stampings - shown in the yellow square in the photo. As you can see they are no where near the index mark on the oil pump. The picture was taken using a mirror. The letter stampings are at the bottom of the sprocket.




        nonamekid,
        Great detail step-by-step you posted. I printed it out and added it to my shop manual.
        Is the dowel pin you are talked about the one I see just at the cam/sprocket bolt seen in this picture?



        I got the engine started and ignition timed at or very close to 10° BTDC. The car idles, accelerates, and runs fine. Problem solved. Seller was "fibbing." Lessons learned.

        I'll still be looking for a lower mileage engine though. Thanks guys, for your input.

        Charlie Z

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        • #5
          Originally posted by CharlieZ View Post
          jglutz,

          nonamekid,
          Great detail step-by-step you posted. I printed it out and added it to my shop manual.
          Is the dowel pin you are talked about the one I see just at the cam/sprocket bolt seen in this picture?




          Charlie Z
          Congratulations on getting the problem figured out and getting the car running correctly.

          There is that dowel pin in the camshaft, but there should also be one directly above the crankshaft. It has been a few years since I have done this, but since I have a couple of B3s out of the vehicle, I should go get some pics so I can better show what I am talking about.
          The Festiva Store
          Specializing in restoration, tuning and custom parts.

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