Posting this just to get a "Head" start.

[Levitan]

Wes - "I think the initial plume of smoke you are seeing is the effects of the sea-foam."

It's not an initial plume, this thing is a mosquito fogger going down the road. But I will change the oil. I did get the engine bay cleaned yesterday before I got depressed over the mechanic's results.

Wes - "P.S. i don't have a wiring scematic for a dodge truck"

Not sure what this is about, maybe you have me confused with somebody else?

FB71 - "compression test again, with the throttle blocked open, a battery charger hooked up, fuel injectors disconnected, a cylinder leakage test, and cooling system pressure test."

I'm on it. Now I have to figure out what equip and how to do the last 2 tests on the cheap.

[Levitan]

FB71 - "The big question; are you loosing any oil or coolant?"

I haven't driven it enough to know.

Update: Found Leak Down Tester at Harbor Freight for $35.

Found the plans online to build one, for a little cheaper, but figure I will save the hassle and just buy one. http://www.motorcycleproject.com/mot.../leakdown.html

I will keep updating throughout the day. Have to multi-task other obligations, also, today.

[blkfordsedan]

The big question; are you loosing any oil or coolant?

Remove the radiator cap when it's running and look for bubbles in the antifreeze.
Also check for water in the oil (milky appearance). If the head is cracked (or bad head gasket) and seeping water it should have a rather offensive exhaust smell, different than burning oil which we have all smelled before. I would think if it smokes that much you should see water condensed and dripping out the exhaust and it should puke water after you shut it off (from compression leaking into the cooling system).

Good Luck!

[Levitan]

No milky appearance in the oil.

No bubbles in the radiator.

Yes to moisture at the tailpipe.

Did pressurize the radiator and I have a leak around the waterpump area, but can't see exactly where. I took the top timing belt cover off and do not see water leaking at the head gasket. Seems to be below that.

Before I tear any further into that, I'm going to do the compression check, again, and leak down check, then provide all data.

[blkfordsedan]

Sorry, there should be some moisture out the tailpipe anyway. Water is a natural product of proper combustion. That's kind of a tricky thing to interpret.

I would say it's probably an oil issue. Maybe valve guides?

Jim, would bad oil control rings cause these symptoms and still have decent compression if the compression rings are reasonably good?

[juryrigger007]

for your compression test: Start with a warm engine, block open throttle, disconnect injectors. Write down numbers. Then do second test, adding about Tablespoon of clean oil. If your numbers jump up (book says more than 10%) then your rings are worn. If not, then I'd point to your valve guide seals...

I'm going through this very same problem, with now, with a parts-car engine. Ran great, right off the bat, but is pushing extra oil, from the breather, into the intake (in fact, it is pooling near-and in the VAF). It is "puffing" smoke, like what you've described. My compression numbers: #4-175psi #3-165 #2-165 and #1- 45. Adding oil to #1 only made it climb up about 10psi... My valve guide seals are shot, and I suspect a burnt valve.

I am prepping a replacement head, by rebuilding my original head (which is what I was planning, but not so soon).

Good luck, with your diagnostics!

Cheers,

Scott

[jglutz]

Just a little side bar.....
Blocking the throttle open allows more air into the cylinders thus less vacuum is created...remember vaccum is the absence of air...if the vacumm achieved at BDC is less...the more air is in the cylinder to be compressed...thus the better/higher compression readings.

Instead of disconnecting the FI's I have always found it easier to jump 12VDC right to the sarter solenoid coil....no need for the key to be used. They sell push button cables to do this....I think they call them remote starters.

[sanjeet]

As its an Auto my money is on the kick down valve on the gear box, and yes white smoke is the clue, it happened to me and I thought the same as you great clouds of whits smoke when you take off....

If my memory serves me well its when it kicks down to first, on the gear box you find the little fiendish part, I am informed the kick down is used on smaller engine sizes (1.3 Litre) only

When it happened to me I thought the engine had totalled, it cost me about $85 (NZ Dollars) for the part, very embarrassing when taking off at the lights,

I hope its what you are looking for :wav:

[Levitan]

Finally got back to work on the car. Followed several folks' advice and came up with new numbers and problems/questions.

I went back and did the compression test correctly following jglutz's advice. I used the remote starter and opened the throttle 100%.

New compression #s:

#1 - 180
#2 - 165
#3 - 175
#4 - 180

Then I went and Googled info on how to properly do a leak down test after purchasing a tester from Harbor Freight. I got as far as cylinder #1 and am more confused than ever.

I removed all 4 spark plugs...and I'm not sure if that was correct...... plugged the tester into the #1 cylinder. I keep reading online that you should be able to add up to 100 psi of air and the 2nd gauge should be at "zero". When I did #1 cyl, at about 20 psi, the 2nd gauge went to "0". Anyways, what I can't figure out is what to do from there. Am I suppose to unhook the air and see how far the second gauge drops? If so, then it drops 80%, and I know that is not good. Next, I left the air hose attached and you can hear air blowing out the valve cover throught the oil cap and pvc valve hole.

Any more help would be appreciated, because I am absolutely confused in Iowa right now.

[jglutz]

I'm not familiar with your leak down tester nor the proper proceedure....however and compression test numbers are very good! Not new factory numbers but close enough.